rwims Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 In Jerry Kuhnhausen's book he says after truing the inner torgue shoulder a mauser action should be re-heat treated. Is this necessary? I have not had to true any inner torque shoulders yet but I have a K-Kale Turk that me need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemson Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Arguing with Kuhnhausen, and specifically against heat treatment, is pretty hard to defend! Operations that might compromise the integrity of the action, particularly wear surfaces like lugs, lug recesses, cocking cams, etc., surely require rehardening. It is not a terribly expensive operation given the overall cost of building a rifle. That primary torque shoulder, however, is not really a wear surface. It is the place where the barrel butts up to the action. It is only going to see the end of the barrel sitting stationary against it. I personally don't see that truing that surface alone would indicate heat treatment for the entire receiver. I hasten to add that this is only my opinion. Others may be able to convince me that it is a necessary step, and I am constantly learning in this business! Clemson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vladymere Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 I'm with Clemson on this. Personaly I think Kunhausen is overly cautios. He would have you reheat treat a reciver if you looked at it to hard. Vlad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwims Posted June 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 As Clemosn pointed out , and is why I raised the question. This shoulder is not subject to repeated movement like the bolt lug area or the lugs themselves. I don't asked the question to contradict Kuhnhausen. If it heat treating is reccomended to control compression when seating the barrel or something of that nature, then good enough for me. An inquiring mind wants to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 I think Clemson summed it up pretty well. I'm not aware that hardening that surface adds apprecibly to strength thus the only possible reason I can see is to prevent galling of the surface when you tighten the barrel against it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racepres Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 I think Clemson summed it up pretty well. I'm not aware that hardening that surface adds apprecibly to strength thus the only possible reason I can see is to prevent galling of the surface when you tighten the barrel against it. Which can happen!! Happened to me on a M48. The C ring galled the face of the barrel! Took some work to "true" that C ring.. the darn thing was tougher than a 10 inch tiger turd!!! MV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwims Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 I appreciate everyones response. Thanks, RWims Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 Which can happen!! Happened to me on a M48. The C ring galled the face of the barrel! Took some work to "true" that C ring.. the darn thing was tougher than a 10 inch tiger turd!!! MV Which is yet another reason I harden mine as a matter of course. I D&T, surface grind, dehorn, true, and polish the receiver then send it off. That way I just don't have to worry. And while technically you needn't fuss with the exterior, I find that a hardened outer resists wear & tear better. A little less like to scratch, etc. the M48's I've found have a tendency to gall the barrel much more than any other action I've worked on. They seem to be sufficiently hard, but they are rough as cobs. A hard rough surface is just like a cutting bit and will quickly do a number on your barrel for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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