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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

98 Turk Mauser To 338-06


brian923

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i was looking to turn my turk mauser in to a big pill pushing rifle. i was just wanting to know what you guys think of this round. i also wanted to know if you guys would think that an ackley version of thias round might be better. also looking for some feedback from people, hunters and target shooters that have used this round. thanks guys, brian

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33806full.jpg

 

338-06done.jpg

 

Well, I like it. I went with the std .338-06. No need to fuss with fireforming etc. It shoots the Hornady 225's that I have a ton of into tiny little groups. Doesn't leave anything to be desired.

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what would you recommend as a twist for the larger grn bullets? (250 through 300 grnbullets?) i am wanting to use the heavier bullets because i am building a 7 mm rem mag that will shoot up to 175 grn. bullets. is there a magical twist that will shoot all the 338 bullets? i am thinking.......1/10???

 

edit:

 

??questions??

1. do you have to lengthen the mag well to get the 338-06 to fit?

 

2. anyone have any pics of different types of aftermarket stocks for mausers? i like the fajen mauser stock with the vented front stock, but i was wanting to know of any others out there. anyone have the fajen stock?? pics??

thanks , brian

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hi brian. I have a k.kale in 8-06. with a m98 or vz24 I don't think you would have to blow out the box any. I only blew mine out cause I pushed the bullet out farther.zlr has a vz24 in 338-06, he would definitely know. Dave

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yah know.... i have been going back and forth on weather to go with a new barrel, or just kinda work the old one for now. it would keep the price down.

I DONT KNOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW

 

i am looking at some sites on the net and see a couple of people say that handloading the 8x57 can really bring up the performance of the round. how would this compare to going up to 8mm-06? if i go to 8mm-06, all i need is a reamer right?(and headspace gauge) would i be able to hand ream the existing barrel to 8mm-06, or would i have to break it down amd use a machine? if i can leave it, that would be awsome, cause i dont have all the tools yet. (havent made a barrel wrench yet)

 

i think if i go this route, i can get some more experiance, spend less money, and still get a good performing rifle. then, when i shoot out the origonal barrel, i can re-barrel to the 338-06. or another round.

 

 

i would like to cut off the front sight, grind off the rear, and take the steps out of the origonal barrel. then re-crown. what is a good overall lenght for the 8x57, and the 8mm-06? i am wanting a hunting rifle, but i want the max performacne i can ge out of it. i dont mind heavy, or long.

 

right now, with factory ammo, remington 200grn soft points, i can hit 6" drywall cut outs(from can lights) at around 60-75 yards standing. one fell over, and call it luck if you want, but i pointed, shot, and split one in half. i am no sharpshooter, but i can shoot a little. but i thik that the origonal barrel is in really good shape. another reason for my indesisevness.

 

thanks guys, brian

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The 8mm-06 offers some improvement but not much. I wouldn't bother with it personally, even though it is a fine cartridge. But, to answer your question, yes, you could hand ream it if you wanted.

 

StraitShooter, what kinda velocities are you getting? Everyone I ever knew got maybe 100 fps max. Part of the reason I never bothered with one for myself.

 

Most often when I recontour the barrel I leave it the original length. Once or twice I've shortened them. I like the 23.6" length and think it offers the best comptomise betwwen easy handling and max performance. The 8x57 is no slouch.

 

Instead of cutting off the sights, why not do it the easy way and just use your propane torch to loosen up the soft solder?

 

How are you planning to remove the steps from the barrel?

 

I lengthened my mag box so I could seat the heavies out there and not loose powder room. With the 8x57 you can really seat the heavies out there with no loss of boiler room.

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hi zlr, my k.kale has the mil 29" barrel. It's throwing 180gr nos bt's at 2850-2875 w/med load of imr4064. the 200gr speer hot cores w/imr 4064was average of 2750 w/med load. So far I haven't pushed em to max yet. what I do like about the 338-06 is bc compared to 8mm's. I only hunt hogs here w/8-06. I would have built a 338-06 but I had a few k.kale sr barrel given to me. Low cost investment for a good hog gun.Dave

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This is my hog/truck gun. Open sights I made and original bbl turned down. I use the rem 185's in it and it shoots like a dream.

 

M48Acrop.jpg

 

 

Now, after what I said about not building an 8mm-06 you'll laugh when I tell you I am building an 8x60. Litterally right in the middle of the 8x57 and 8mm-06.

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  • 1 month later...

z1r that is one fine looking 338-06 what stock did you use and did you do the checkering i have used wood that nice on one yet but am planning on a 7X57 and have something looking like yours in mind and just for the record and to keep with this post i have a 8mm-06 reamer and dies i just havent had time to put them to use and my truck/hog gun is an 8x57 i converted and added a mesquite wood schnabled forend i tried to post pic but havent firged it out yet

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Re: the 8-06

If you are working with the original barrel there is an advantage that no one has yet mentioned.

 

There can be some throat erosion that the longer 06 can ream through allowing for better

engagement of the bullet to the lands.

 

Just wanted to put that out there in case you had a barrel with throat erosion.

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z1r that is one fine looking 338-06 what stock did you use and did you do the checkering i have used wood that nice on one yet but am planning on a 7X57 and have something looking like yours in mind and just for the record and to keep with this post i have a 8mm-06 reamer and dies i just havent had time to put them to use and my truck/hog gun is an 8x57 i converted and added a mesquite wood schnabled forend i tried to post pic but havent firged it out yet

 

Thanks. I used a Richard's microfit that I hand picked. Then I altered it extensively. I shortened the fore arm, and added or I should say, reattached the ebony tip. I opened the grip and added the metal grip cap. I gave the fore end a round profile. Bill Soverns did the checkering.

 

To post pics you need a picture host like photobucket.com. Upload your pic to their site then copy the link and paste it into your post. Or, you can use the little green box down below that say's upload.

 

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s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd211/revaew77/?action=view?t=DCP_1693.jpg i might of firgure out the pics or thi is an accident........... still trying s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd211/revaew77/?action=view?t=DCP_1693.jpgdeer 1.jpgdeer 1.jpgs226.photobucket.com/albums/dd211/revaew77/?action=view&current=DCP_1694.jpg...... still trying i think im getting worse welding bolts on is easier than posting pics still trying i can not seem to get the actual pics to load or is this what its suposed to do need more help please i havent found the green box that says up load yet either i am going to start a new post so i dont crud this one up might even offer a reward to the first one that can get me straight on posting pics

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In photobucket, there is a box (third one down) under your picture. Place your curser in it and left click. this copies the proper coding to allow you to simply hit "control + V" and paste the code into a message.

 

It should look like this except the start and end brackets will be these [] instead of {}.

 

{img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/78z1r/DSC00285.jpg[/img}

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  • 1 month later...
In photobucket, there is a box (third one down) under your picture. Place your curser in it and left click. this copies the proper coding to allow you to simply hit "control + V" and paste the code into a message.

 

It should look like this except the start and end brackets will be these [] instead of {}.

 

{img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/78z1r/DSC00285.jpg[/img}

 

 

 

Great looking .338-06 there...I used a Husquvarna 98 long action for mine, because it was easy to find a A&B barrel for it without threading a barrel blank. I did swap out the triggerguard on mine to get a full 3.4 inch magazne so I would not have to worry so much about bullet seating. Mine feeds great, shoots great and kicks like a mule, and I will be adding a little better recoil pad on it then Boyd's supplies. I'm really happy with the way mine turned out and we both have a lot of gun which we can shoot certainly cheaper than a belted magnum, when in fact what we have is pretty much a magnum

 

Dave

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Most of us here like to mess around with different options for chamberings, but if you have a good barrel and handload, the standard 8x57 js mauser is a pretty potent load in its own right. For some of us, keeping the initial cost down is important and the 8x57 can be loaded to over 3200+ ft lb of energy as shown by the RealGuns site:

 

www.realguns.com/loads/8x57mmjs.htm

 

I have my own budget Turk Mauser in 8x57 that looks good and shoots good. I did all the work myself except the bolt and am pleased with the results. The synthetic stock provides a light and quick handling rifle. All stainless Duracoated parts are parkerized making this rifle weatherized for the most part. I have since installed a 4x Bushnell with lower rings.

 

8mmriflers.jpg

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Sweet rifle!!!!! I built one this summer. If you want to read something illuminating, read the Chuck Hawks comparison of the .338-06 and the .35 Whelen.. This is an astounding cartridge really and so affordable in alot of ways: you can built it on a standard Mauser Action, use a standard 98 k Bolt, and the only concessionI did was use a magazine which gave me a full 3.4.inches in the well. I applaud the work you did, real pretty stock work there. I did mine from rough Boyd's stock. Also what you see is all cold blueing str8 from Brownell's (except for the triggerguard). I understand there is such a thing as a 180 grain bullet for .338, but I cannot locate any. I did make a mistake by not putting a bigger and better recoil pad on my rifle.

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

 

33806full.jpg

 

338-06done.jpg

 

Well, I like it. I went with the std .338-06. No need to fuss with fireforming etc. It shoots the Hornady 225's that I have a ton of into tiny little groups. Doesn't leave anything to be desired.

 

 

post-3469-1195013047_thumb.jpg

post-3469-1195013069_thumb.jpg

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Tackleberry,

 

Nice job. That looks like Zastava bottom metal. The extra magazine room is needed. I lengthened the Portuguese bottom metal I have so I too have a 3.400" well. I love the .338-06. Much more pleasant than the 9.3x62, bullets are generally less expensive and brass can be made from any old .30-06 case. they make .338's as light as 160 grains. Nosler used to make a 180 BT. I believe Barnes had the 160's and 180's. About the best all around bullet is the 210 Partition.

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