Adding To A Stock

[brian923]

i was going to work my first stock, and i figured that i would use my military stock to start with. its a 1940 k. kale mauser. i would like to bring the check rest (comb) of the stock a little higher, add a rcoil pad, and cut and work the front arm of the stock. i have heard of people using bondo to add to a stock. how is this done to make the bondo not come off during recoil?

 

my thoughts were to drill holes into the stock to let the bondo sink into. then, i would shape the stock to how i want it and then add a layer or two of fiberglass over the whole stock. does this sound like it would work? will it add a lot of wheight to the stock? is there a better way? i am using the origonal stock for two reasons. i already have it, and i dont want to mess up a good stock. thanks for your input, brian

[ken98k]

I experimented with this topic last winter and added some exaggerated features to a butchered 03 Springfield stock.

I added wood to the comb and created a pistol grip then molded them with bondo.

The main thing I learned was the wood must be absolutely oil free.

[brian923]

how do you get the cosmoline out of the mood of a military stcok so that i could get bondo and paint to stick to it?

[ken98k]

how do you get the cosmoline out of the mood of a military stcok so that i could get bondo and paint to stick to it?

 

This is how I clean oil soaked stocks-

1. Place the stock somewhere hot (80 to 100 degrees) and let it sweat for 24 hrs

2. Wipe off the excess oil with a clean rag

3. Wash the stoch down with a soft brush and soapy water

4. Repeat as needed, may take several days

[brian923]

thanks a lot guys for the info.

 

anyone out there have pics of sporterised military stocks? just looking for ideas. the stocks a pretty cluby lookin. thanks guys, brian

[AzRednek]

A good place to put a stock to help sweat out the oil. Is in your car's trunk and park it in direct sunlight. I wrap mine with toilet paper and scape it off after it has cooled. Make certain you line your car trunk with plenty of newspaper. If the odor gets in the liner, you will smell a reminder everytime it warms up.

 

[cold shot]

Here is the first stock I played with. Still use it for hogs . 8mm-06 k.kale action w/29" mil barrel.I also draw filed the steps off the barrel.

I just soaked it with easy off oven cleaner for 1-2 hrs. then washed it down till no more soapy water came out, air dried for a couple days, then sanded the feathers off. I put 12 coat of tung oil on it. Not the fanciest stock but functional. Dave

[brian923]

NEW QUESTION....................................

 

i was found some BONDO-GLASS at meijers, so i picked it up to do my military stock re-make. i was wondering though, if i cut some of the wood out of the stock in the butt, basically like making a skeletonized stock, bondo glass up a nice check comb, and then wrap the hole thing in a layer of fiberglass, would the stock collaps under recoil? i am not going to be using any magnum calibers on it for any builds. its going to stay the current 8x57 for now. and maybe 338 federal later on. i just dont want to have the stock collaps when in use. reason for doing it...... to lighten the stock before adding weight with the bondo.

 

 

thanks guys, brian

[cold shot]

Hi Brian, I,m no expert, bit I wouldn't think it could collapse under recoil if you left it as is -8x57. I have a couple mil stocks laying around. Might give it a go myself. Just remember, bondo and fiberglass isn't light. I would think that if any thing it should soak up some of the recoil. Just my .035 worth. Dave

[tinkerfive]

how is this done to make the bondo not come off during recoil?

 

my thoughts were to drill holes into the stock to let the bondo sink into.

 

Brian

 

I suggest that rather drilling holes for the bondo to sink into, which you couldn't guarantee, the following.

Drill the stock for a series of dowel pins to be glued into.

 

Let's say your cheek rest is to be 6" long, I'd say that would take about 5 dowel pins.

 

You could cut your dowel pins 1/4" shy of your desired finish height such that you have a 1/4" bondo

over them. The pins give you a 'work to' and something to mold the Bondo to rather than just a long

narrow 'glob' of Bondo.

 

Tinker

[bcp477]

I reworked an old, but very nice, 24/47 military stock into a sporter recently. I prefer a schnabel forend on my sporter stocks, so I used a portion of the handguard (no longer needed) to build up the tip of the forend, prior to shaping. I used JB Weld to glue the piece to the existing stock wood, as well as to fill and reinforce the cleaning rod cavity (in addition to a hardwood dowel). It all worked out quite nicely. The only minor negative is a small glue-line which remains visible, where the wood was added. However, after finishing, this is not very obvious, unless one looks for it. Of course, before using any part(s) of the original stock wood, I was very sure to remove ALL of the existing surface finish and as much of the oil IN the wood as possible.