ken98k Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 Have any of you used one of the Dakota replacement bolts from Brownells? I got one a while ago and really like the shape, etc. but I'm not sure about how to go about welding it. Kenny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 Have any of you used one of the Dakota replacement bolts from Brownells? I got one a while ago and really like the shape, etc. but I'm not sure about how to go about welding it. Kenny Yeah, I had the same problem, so I threw it away and went back to using either Talley's or Halfmoon handles. You can weld either of them on to replicate the angle of attachment anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weaver77 Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 i use them and like them i dont weld the on like the directions say they come out short and dont give enough clearance for low rings instead i cut the original bolt handle of just past where it turns round then i weld up the kind of "v" notch in the dakota handle and reshape that end of shank round and grind and bevel the desired angle on the end then i weld them on to the bottom of the square part of the bolt handle shank that is on the bolt body positioning it about 1/8 of and inch away from the bolt body so i can clean the weld up easier and see where the flat on the bottom of the original bolt was to time bolt close position back to original position this all seems more difficult than it is but it usually only takes me about 30 to 40 minutes to get handle welded on them several hours to shape and polish but thats with any bolt hope this helps let me know if you need more info (zr1 dont throw them away send them to me!!) heres a couple i did Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted October 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 i use them and like them i dont weld the on like the directions say they come out short and dont give enough clearance for low rings instead i cut the original bolt handle of just past where it turns round then i weld up the kind of "v" notch in the dakota handle and reshape that end of shank round and grind and bevel the desired angle on the end then i weld them on to the bottom of the square part of the bolt handle shank that is on the bolt body positioning it about 1/8 of and inch away from the bolt body so i can clean the weld up easier and see where the flat on the bottom of the original bolt was to time bolt close position back to original position this all seems more difficult than it is but it usually only takes me about 30 to 40 minutes to get handle welded on them several hours to shape and polish but thats with any bolt hope this helps let me know if you need more info (zr1 dont throw them away send them to me!!) heres a couple i did Directions? Mine just came in a little plastic baggie all by itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 Directions? Mine just came in a little plastic baggie all by itself. Mine too. I found it easier to just cut the stub off the handles I usually use and weld them where and how I wanted. Nice work Weaver77. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montea6b Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 Very nice looking handles! I like the sweepback angle. I'm kind of thinking the Swede would look good with just a hair more sweep now. I tend to favor straighter handles on beefy rifles, but on a slimmer lighter rifle a little more sweep looks OK. So what is really the issue with the Dakota handles? They look a little slender at the root, is this the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted October 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 So what is really the issue with the Dakota handles? They look a little slender at the root, is this the problem? They have notch pre-ground into them where you weld them on. See the photo on this link http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/pro...20handle&s= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdfrench31 Posted December 26, 2007 Report Share Posted December 26, 2007 Yeah, I had the same problem, so I threw it away and went back to using either Talley's or Halfmoon handles. You can weld either of them on to replicate the angle of attachment anyway. z1r, Is this the Talley bolt handle you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted December 26, 2007 Report Share Posted December 26, 2007 z1r, Is this the Talley bolt handle you use? Yes sir it is. I can't make em for less and they are easy to work with and a decent classic look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdfrench31 Posted December 26, 2007 Report Share Posted December 26, 2007 Yes sir it is. I can't make em for less and they are easy to work with and a decent classic look. It's hard to tell from that pic how long the handle is. Do you cut that piece of rough stock off or turn in down on the lathe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted December 26, 2007 Report Share Posted December 26, 2007 It's hard to tell from that pic how long the handle is. Do you cut that piece of rough stock off or turn in down on the lathe? I've done both depending on the desired length and placement of the knob. Generally speaking, cutting the handle off just at the junction of the excess stock will result in the ball being about even with the floorplate when welded on. This is where most people want them but I've done some shorter and a few longer to where I turned down the stock in the lathe. Sometimes I don't turn down the excess when I weld it on, it all depends on the look the client is after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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