Help Me Rework This Turk Military Stock

[jgtiffany]

OK, here's my Turk Mauser project rifle so far:

 

 

I'm getting ready to rework the stock but I'm gonna need some advice. I do have a bit of woodworking experience but this is my first stock and I'd like to at least not mess it up TOO badly.

 

My plan is to keep this a full-length, Mannlicher-style stock. All I've done so far is to remove the top handguard and cut the stock to match the barrel, which I cut to ~19".

 

From the reading I've done on the board and the advice I've been given already, it sounds like using a chemical stripper to remove the old finish, followed by shaping the stock and refinishing with Tru-Oil, is the way to go.

 

The specific advice I need now is:

 

Will this wood require a filler? I'm not sure what kind of wood the Turks used, but I imagine it was whatever they could get from the low bidder. Would a combination stain/filler that I can get from my local Wally World work? I'd like the final result to be a few shades lighter than the original military finish.

 

Is there a way to fill in the stock around that metal disk just below the front of the reciever? I don't think I can remove the disk, as it holds the recoil lug in place.

 

This rifle kicks like a P.O.'d mule (probably the fault of the Turk surplus ammo), and the cheap slip-on recoil pad I have on there, although better than the steel buttplate, could stand some improvement. How does one go about fitting a grind-to-fit recoil pad with hand tools? I don't have access to a belt or disk sander. Alternatively, are there slip-on recoil pads that work well and don't look cheesy?

 

Would it be helpful to add a recoil reducer inside the buttstock? I was wondering if any of the "build-it-yourself" recoil reducers like the one here are worth the effort.

 

I was also wondering if anyone has any drawings/instructions for shaping the "flare" at the muzzle end of the stock. My web searches haven't been very helpful in this regard. I suppose I'd be OK with a metal or even plastic forend tip if it doesn't cost more than the rifle did to begin with.

 

Thanks for any help you can give.

 

I'm also planning a trip to the library this weekend to see if any of their gunsmithing books cover stockmaking.

[karlunity]

Hello and welcome.

 

As to the stock:

 

Remove all steel parts: butt plate lower sling swivel etc.

 

You just reshape the butt by whittling and sanding( use 80 weight paper to start and go up to 1500 for final polishing.)..go slowly ...you can take wood off but you cannot put it back.

 

Free float the barrel by removing enough wood from the chamber-barrel area to slide a dollar bill..check this with the act screwed into place.

 

If you have a heat gun ..heat up the stock.

 

Then get some Purple cleaner from the auto section at walmart to suck out the old oils.

Apply it with a freehand, let it soak for about an hour and wash it off with water and a strong brush.

You will have to do this several times.

 

Next go over the stock with a heat gun and remove the remaining oils, do not do this in the house and the oils the turks used stink and your wife WILL be annoyed : ).

 

Sanding:

 

I start with about 240 paper and work my way to 1500 blowing the dust off between papers with a can of air, then I polish the wood with .0000 steel wool, this will take several hours.

 

The tests are: the wood must be shiny enough to read the reflection of your watch in and you run your fingernails over the stock with out feeling any bumps.

 

Tru-Oil, has a kit, runs about 15 bucks, that has every thing you will need except the steel wool, sand paper, rubber gloves and canned air.

 

Apply the filler/stain that comes in the kit and let it sit for a day.

 

Next day polish it again with the 0000 steel wool and blow off any dust with the can of air.

 

Next apply seven coats of tru-oil allow a day for each coat to dry and polish with the 0000 steel wool between coats.

 

Let it dry for a week and apply seven coats of wax well rubbed in by hand.

 

As to the recoil just hold the rifle tightly to your shoulder or re-load..I like 13 grains of Red Dot for target shooting out to 200 meters,,set the rear sight at 500 meters that will get you on the paper with Red Dot at 100 meters and you can adjust from there.

 

Good luck

Karl