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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Extractor Install Help


brokerjack

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There are probably better methods. I get an extra set of hands by putting the old lady to work. I have her grab the ring with needle nose pliers with an old shoe lace between the ring and needle nose and squeeze like crazy. It usually provides enough clearance to get the extracor started with my own hands.

 

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Extractor collars are very soft steel, removing them invairably bends and twists them. Squeeze a removed collar at the mid points of it's sides with a the curved inner jaws of slip pliers. Notice that the lugs will not match properly, either in height or width with one frequently at a downward angle.

 

Begin by carefully cleaning the collar and it's slot. Try replacing the collar on the bolt and while squeezing the lugs togather with the pliers, try to turn the coller in it's slot and notice any binding which may occur. To correct, squeeze the collar around it's circumfrence with the pliers until the coller is once again a true circle. IMPORTANT, use the curved inner jaws of a slip-joint pliers to do any work on extractor collars, and, ensure that the width of the jaws is LESS than the width of the collar. Pliers with flat jaws will apply angular pressure causing a whole new set of problems.

 

Now squeeze the collar at it's midpoints and see if lugs match up properly, you may find that one of the lugs is cocked or sits ahead of the other. To correct this, grasp the bolt body while pushing upwards on the bottom of the collar with one finger to allow some wiggle room where the lugs rise up slightly above the collar slot. Grasp the ends of both locking lugs with your pliers then twist out-of-alighment lug back into it's parallel position with the other. Check your work by grasping the collar at it's midpoints to see if the lugs now align properly, repeat the process as necessary.

 

Now the trick. Snap the collar into its slot, positioning the collar lugs for attachment of the extractor, hold them in position and squeeze the collar tightly using the curved inside jaws of the pliers (this will apply a uniform pressure over a larger surface of the collar than will needle nose pliers). You should be able to press the extractor onto the collar lugs by hand, especially if you press downward FIRMLY on the top of the extractor about one inch behind the lug seat to remove the outward bow of the extractor. Sometimes only the tips of the lugs can be caught, just use a wooden mallet to tap on the face of the extractor to drive it completely onto the lugs. Roll the extractor into position so it's foot snaps into the groove in the head of the bolt. The extractor should now roll easily, but firmly, back and forth around the bolt.

 

Now the final test. Examine the attached collar to ensure that it is flush, or, lies slightly below the surface of the bolt. Any point at which the collar bulges above the body of the bolt will leave a sharp edge sticking out to snag (especially the the bolt stop face) as the bolt moves back and forth in the receiver. A bulge in the extractor collar also indicates uneven pressure against the extractor slot which may cause excessive stiffness in the rolling motion of the extractor during functioning. Squeezing around the circumfrence of the collar (including the the extractor where it attaches to the collar) will usually correct this problem.

 

Bottom line, removing and replacing extractors should only be done when absolutely necesary. The replacement of either or both parts will likely call for some very careful fitting. Always use the inner curved jaws of a slip-jaw pliers Dimensions of Mauser parts can vary condiserably as a result of the many years over which they were made and particularly because of the large numbers of manufacturors who made these parts. Very few Mauser parts are drop-ins. But that's much of the enjoyment of restoring or sporterizing milsurps. Bill

 

Finally,

 

 

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