machinist1 Posted November 18, 2007 Report Share Posted November 18, 2007 Hi all. Has anyone done any recheckering? I'm restoring a post war German sporter. The stock had been shallached over the original oil finish, and looked like hell. The only thing to do was to strip the stock and refinish it. The stock was checkered in the European style (flat diamonds). I am wondering what tools I will need too do this job. Your wisdom is needed and appreciated. Thanks, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
724wd Posted November 18, 2007 Report Share Posted November 18, 2007 i have the camp perry set of checking tools and have done this on a pre-64 mod 70. i would use a veiner and a 60 or 90 degree single head cutter, depending on what angle your checking is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vladymere Posted November 20, 2007 Report Share Posted November 20, 2007 I tried recutting the checkering on a 1908 MS stock that I repaired. Now I need a new stock, it came out that badly. I'm sure your efforts will be much better. Vlad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted November 24, 2007 Report Share Posted November 24, 2007 I've recheckered and 724 is right. A single cutter and a veiner will get you a long way. This is especially true with some Euro checkering that's not a standard # lines per inch. You're forced to follow the old lines one at a time. I do like multiple groove cutters cause depth consistency is easier. 3 things I found very helpful were: a checkering cradle - fairly easy to make, a head mounted magnifier and having the lighting correct. I use a desk type light that comes at the work BETWEEN your eyes and the stock. Adjust until you are shadowing the diamonds and they stand out clearly. It helps keeping from crossing into another row and wiping out a few diamonds. Keep a stiff toothbrush close and clean the tool and pattern often. I'm no expert. I re-did a Ruger #1 that was fair and now does look better, however it took a ton of hours over several days. My first was rough like Vlads, but I'll doctor it up somehow with sandpaper. I had too much time in the re-finish to scrap it, but one side looks awful. Go slow, live and learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machinist1 Posted November 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2007 Thanks for all of your help and advise. I'm not quite done with the refinishing yet. Will order a viener and a single cutter. Can you post some pics of your checkering cradles. Thanks again, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted November 25, 2007 Report Share Posted November 25, 2007 I made my cradle from the picture in the Brownell's catalog. I need to get pictures figured out. Not posting them, taking them! I've taken alot of pictures of people, dogs, houses..etc. Fine. When I take a picture of a gun it's all screwed up. Anyway, some food for thought. I don't know how far along your re-finish is, but I re-cut my checkering before I finished. Backwards? Maybe. New checkering should be done after finishing. It is easier to cut new crisp lines and they show up better. But since I was coloring the wood with Alkanet root I wanted everything the same color without going back and coloring the checkering after. This was a hand-oil finish, thinned with turpentine - no varnish to gum up the diamonds. I oiled that area with a small brush while rubbing the rest with fingers/palm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted November 25, 2007 Report Share Posted November 25, 2007 Bob, I should have mentioned that my rifles spend 95% of their life decorating the inside of a gun cabinet, 5% being toyed with and all the rest at the range! My finishes tend to run traditional and more for looks than durability. If I lived in a state where they could be used for hunting things would be different. That Soverns finish appears to have both ends covered well. That would most likely need to be finished, then checkered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machinist1 Posted November 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2007 Walnut. I am using Minwax's Antique Oil Finish. This is the first time I have used this finish. So far I like it,. It dries fast and seems to be fairly hard. I have been using an old tooth brush to keep as much finish as possible out of the checkering and the carving. I may not have to recut the checkering at all. So far it looks pretty good. I have threee coats on now. The next step is to wet sand with 600 Grit wet and dry. I will use a 50/50 mixture of the finish and mineral spirits. Wish me luck. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 Sounds like a plan. If you're gonna wet sand after every 3 coats, maybe go finer grit each time. By the time you get to 1500 it'll be so smooth you'll have to checker to keep it from sliding out of your hands when it goes off! Good luck and hopefully a pic or 2 when it's done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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