barrel band sling swivel question

[Horsefly]

How is a barrel band swivel base attached to the barrel?Are they sweated on?Z had one on a gun a while back,and I sure was classy.Midway has a Talley for $28.79,but I think I can make one.I'm going to make a sling swivel jig too.After looking at the pictures of them,it'll be way simple to do.I'm not exactly cheap,but I get as much enjoyment out of making tool as working on guns.Jerry

[z1r]

Horsefly,

 

There are three ways to attch them that I know of. First, sweated on. Second, heat up the band to red hot and drive onto the barrel. Better have your alignment right though as once they are on, they are on! Lastly, loctite. I think it's the green one that most use. this would be useful when you are adding one to an already blued bbl. Be advised that if you sweat one on you cannot caustic blue it.

 

That's an enterprising notion you have. Bets of luck. I look forward to seeing your product!

[Horsefly]

Z,which method of attaching a sling swivel to a barrel would you recommend? I know heating it red hot works,that's how starter rings are put on flex plates on cars,and they won't come off even when turning over a big V-8 engine,but your sure right about having it timed right.The sweat on is looking like the way to go,but I sure want-need to hear what you think.Thanks for all your help,Jerry.

[chas]

Use Brownells Hi-force solder to sweat it, and you won't have a problem with a caustic blue. It's a higher temperature solder than 50-50, and can handle a blueing tank without coming loose.

[z1r]

Use Brownells Hi-force solder to sweat it, and you won't have a problem with a caustic blue.  It's a higher temperature solder than 50-50, and can handle a blueing tank without coming loose.

 

That would maybe be useful if Jerry plans to have it caustic blued. If not, he needn't bother as any soft solder will work fine. That 96% tin 4% silver stuff from the hardware store works great. I think sweating it on is easier than the red hot method. I've used both. More than one big NAME gunmaker I know does use the loc-tite.

 

I prefer the solder. Especialy since I slow rust blue everything. If I were doing a caustic blue, I'd use the red hot method. And if I were retro-fitting a band onto an already blued rifle I'd use the loc-tite. They all have their place.

[Pedestal]

I usually put them on with Acra Glass, after blueing. If you have a good fit, it works quite well. Wouldn't want to do it if it was a bit "loose".

[AzRednek]

Better have your alignment right though as once they are on, they are on!

A freind and I did two many years ago. We had access to a large oven used to turn automotive leaf springs cherry red. Mine was just a hair slightly off center, hardly noticable to anybody but me BUT it really bugged me everytime I looked at it. It was one of those very minor errors that nobody would see unless I pointed it out. I silver soldered the front sight back on and certainly wished after the fact I had done the barrel band the same way.

[BobVZ]

Horsefly,

 

If you ever want to make a barrel band swivel for a Mauser 98 military barrel(98K,GEW 98, '09, '08, etc.), a 1909 Argy Carbine front sight base makes a dandy one. Just reshape the part with the dovetail and install the base upside down on the barrel to the second barrel step. Then install a sling loop from another band or base. The added benefit is that it helps disguise the barrel step.

[Horsefly]

Thanks fellers.I now have a plan.I'm going to hunt up a Argy front sight base,soft solder it on,and rust blue it.It does have a military barrel,and I like the idea of hiding a step.If anyone knows where I could get a sight base,holler.Jerry