Here's The Problem

[Spiris]

This is a bolt from a yugo 48 u fix'em that I got from Century recently. With the scarcity of yugo bolts and bodies I plan to repair it by inserting my aluminum heatsink and using a layer of food wrap to isolate the threads from a thin layer of JBweld or something like it, that I'll form in the center of the valley to insulate. After it hardens, I can lay a few puddles of stick weld and grind as needed until I get it where I can graft a bolt handle in place. I want to avoid having to retap the bolts shroud threads. At least that's the plan. And yes, I will take precautions to protect the lugs and cocking slot surface. I do not have the original bolt piece that was broken off. I was able to insert my 03 turk bolt into the action, which is in beautiful shape, and it functioned ok, but the cocking piece is different. The barrel on the yugo is junk.

Does anyone have a different solution, or recommendation that they might share? Here's a pic.

 

 

Spiris

[z1r]

Not to pee in anyone's wheaties but, these kinds of failures are rare. Aside form all the work, they would make me wonder what the rest of the bolt was like in terms of metalurgy , etc. Whose to say the front lugs aren't similar?

 

 

[weaver77]

for my 2 cents from the look of the edges of the hole it appears that area of the bolt was some how crystalized during the heat treat possibly due to some type of impurities in the steel used i have seen similar type breaks in cast iron it happens when cast is being resmelted and something other than cast iron gets smelted with it (like a crank shaft left in a block) the resulting cast iron will be really hard to mill due to the inconsitancy of the materials and is prone to breakage at in these areas due to the different expansion and contraction rates of the different material simply one cools and shrinks faster than the other causing stress fractures and giving results like the one seen on your bolt i would not use it as it may have more areas like that which havent showed up yet but as soon as you put more heat to it and it cools again another chunk could pop loose or a stress fracture could be created leading to failure of the bolt later theres an intermediate bolt on ebay right now it has the "tits" on the bolt face but is still usable in a yugo either by removing the "tits" or doing away with the safety breech anyway dont use the one you have

 

well that rant may have been more like a quarters worth

 

weaver77

[Horsefly]

I'm with Mike.I'd flinch every time I pulled the trigger wondering if the part lined up between my eyes is going to hold together or not.I've never seen a bolt do that,but did see a Catapillar engine do the same thing when a bolt was tightened and pulled out a chunk of the block.At first they thought it was over-torqued,but it done it again when hand tightened.It was bad casting due to impurities in the steel.Jerry

[Spiris]

Thanks for your insight guys. I gave this a lot of thought after reading your posts and although I personally believe the metal failure was due to being dropped or someone whacking the bolt or being run over or some severe outside force being involved, I'll probably part out the rifle eventually. I should recoup the 50 bucks it cost. Like I said, the action is in beautiful condition with no pitting at all plus the bolt parts are worth quite a bit by themselves. I have the barrel threads soaking in Kroil and would like to see how hard it is to remove it. Just maybe I can run across a reasonable bolt body for it. I had thought about a 250 savage or 257 Roberts for this action.

 

Thanks again,

Spiris

[z1r]

I picked up some mexican SR 98's a couple of years ago. Someone had modified Turk 1903 Bolts by grinding off the guide nubs on the front. This makes them essentially the same as a yugo bolt. If I can find one you're welcome to it. Not the prettiest but the price is right.

[Spiris]

Thanks for the offer Z, but i'm not sure what you mean by the guide nubs. I have a shot of the bolt faces on my 03 turk and the yugo and they appear to be the same. The cocking pieces look different on the end, but that's all I can see that's different. I got a few more pics.

 

 

Spiris

[z1r]

Thanks for the offer Z, but i'm not sure what you mean by the guide nubs. I have a shot of the bolt faces on my 03 turk and the yugo and they appear to be the same. The cocking pieces look different on the end, but that's all I can see that's different. I got a few more pics.

 

 

Spiris

 

that's cuz you got a yugo bolt in your turk. the Turks have the distictive pear shaped knob on them.

[z1r]

Here a pic of a Turk '03 and Yugo Intermediate bolt.

 

The Turk has the guide nubs on either side of the ejector slot, the Yugo doesn't. Also, note the pear knob on teh Turk, and the round knob on the yugo.

 

 

[Spiris]

I was beginning to suspect that was the situation. Thanks for the pics. The headspace is good on the 03 turk action with the bolt that I got and I have fired it. I know it has turk crescent on the safety. A mixture of parts I guess. Thanks for clearing that up as I was wondering about the "teardrop" bolt that I did not have. An original Turk 03 bolt might be a little bit easier to find but not much. I did want to try to keep the 03 turk in original shape. I think that I'll use the good bolt in the 48. Thanks for taking the time to post.

 

Spiris

[BradD]

Spiris, pm sailormilan2, I just gave him a Yugo bolt body that he has no particular use for, I think. One or the other of you could come out with something usable.

 

Brad

[Spiris]

Thanks for the heads up Brad. I want to keep my eye out for a 03 turk bolt now to at least try to maintain a semblance of authenticity for the old war horse.

You know, Gallipoli, back then it was a 7.65x53.

 

Spiris