Hornaday Or Lee

[cold shot]

Hey folks. Just wondering if any of you use either Hornaday's lock & load or Lee's challenger presses. Was thinkng about upgrading..If so how do they rate. I know that Lee is alot cheaper, never seen them or used them..Any insite would be greatfull...Dave

[plumbum]

get the lee classic cast and never look back.

 

it will do anything but break the bank. made out of steel, from railroad track I think, no kidding.

[Brenden]

I started out on a lee aniversity press, and i love it. The challenger press is very strong and well made and it handles the magnum fl sizing with ease. Its just like a gun, put a piece of tape over the name and then shoot, and see what you like. All presses do the same thing, only price is diffrent. and opinons are like a-holes, everybodys got one

Brenden

[roscoedoh]

I use a four station Lee turret press for most of my loading now.

 

There's nothing wrong with Lee equipment.

[karlunity]

Except for their "perfect" powder measure", Lee tools are as good as any and a lot less costly.

 

Lee is the way to go.

 

karl

[plumbum]

Except for their "perfect" powder measure", Lee tools are as good as any and a lot less costly.

 

Lee is the way to go.

 

karl

 

actually, for stick powders, the perfect powder measure works very well, sometimes best. it's a leaking mess with ball powders and thoroughly average for granular powders; but for stick, it can't be beat.

[AzRednek]

Except for their "perfect" powder measure", Lee tools are as good as any and a lot less costly.

 

Lee is the way to go.

 

karl

 

Add the Crudmaster progressive press to the exception list. If you're not in a hurry, used reloading presses often sell at gun shows pretty cheap, especially the RCBS Jr.

[cold shot]

I'm using a RCBS 2 at the present time. Was planning on getting a newer model or brand..I like the Q.D. design of the lock and load style. After counting up the QD rings I'd need, I think I'll stick with what I got. I did however get the Lee's 7mm/130gr cast mold w/handle. I was having problems with the bullets having lines in them. Do aluminum molds need to be seasoned..After about 250rds then most of the lines came out.

I think for having nicer looking rds,the Lyman molds are a lot better. I'm just shooting paper at 50-100yds so the Lee mold will do. Today I just got through castin 600rd of the 7mm/130grs and 130rds of

Lyman's 31141 mold of 30-30/173gr casts. Now to just sit back and prep them for loading. Thanks for all the input. Dave

[AzRednek]

I did however get the Lee's 7mm/130gr cast mold w/handle. I was having problems with the bullets having lines in them. Do aluminum molds need to be seasoned..After about 250rds then most of the lines came out.

 

The Lee molds do not have to be 'seasoned" or used allot to get a good cast. The aluminum molds tend to have some burrs in them and they don't have a smooth surface like a Lyman. Use a soft pencil to clear and clean the grooves, then use a tooth brush and toothpaste to clean it out. After the Lee mold is clean and dry, smoke the surface with a birthday candle. If you're getting lines or folds for the first 250, my guess is the mold was not hot enough. Lee molds, at least for me, the hotter the better. The bullets will not look as smooth and shiny as one dropped from a Lyman or iron mold. Try raising the heat on your Lee molds. The bullet's finish will be frosty looking but it will fill out and eliminate the folds. Lee recommends that you stick a corner of the mold in the molten lead to heat it up before casting. Adding some tin to your lead will also help eliminate folds.

 

I spent a good portion of the day casting some 45 cal Maxi-balls for a friend and some Lyman spire pointed 357 and 44's for myself. The spire pointed molds cast a nice sharp pointed bullet but are a real pain in the ass to get them to fall out of the mold. I did pretty good for a change, only burnt myself once!!

[Doble Troble]

I'm with Jason on the 4-place Lee turret press. It's about half as fast as a progressive press. I think progressive presses are about twice as fast as they should be to not risk squibs.

 

If you keep it clean, take the burrs off of the primer seater and make sure not to ding it, the thing is very reliable. Every once in a while it needs an index adjustment that takes (really) five seconds and an adjustable wrench.

[Dr.Hess]

I actually prefer the aluminum Lee bullet molds to other brand steel molds, like Lyman. I've cast thousands of bullets, mostly 45 round nose and SWC. The Lee aluminum ones, more cavities the better, are my choice. Put the corner or the whole bottom in the molten lead until the lead falls off without cooling/sticking. Smoke it with a match. Start casting. If you start getting frosted bullets, touch the corner to a damp spounge to cool the mold a little and get back after it. If you get voids or lines, heat it up some more.

 

For presses, I have a RCBS Jr. that I bought at a sporting goods store as demo when I was 14 or 15. I also have a Dillon RL550. I use the Dillon for almost everything and have the RCBS Jr. set up to swage primer pockets. I think 22 Hornet was about the only thing I didn't do on the Dillon.

 

As I was PM'ing to Az, I haven't made a bullet in 10 years now. I think I'll get back into it. I just bought one of those Frechex sets to make your own gas checks from aluminum cans in 30. I have a mold for 7.62x39 that takes gas checks and I reload non-reloadable steel cased ammo in that. They run through my Spanish 93 Mauser just fine. I think that's about as cheap as you can shoot a centerfire today.