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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Need Cheapie Home Remedy To Clean Revolver Cyl.


AzRednek

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Friend and I recently put apx 350 home cast, hard and tumble lubed 38 Specials through my Ruger Blackhawk. Roughly guessing 75% were tumble lubed. Naturally the crud ring formed inside the cylinder and 357's needed allot of pressure to get them all the way in. By the end of the shooting session I couldn't get 357's in even after a dry brushing with a stainless 41 mag brush.

 

Previously I soaked the cylinder overnight in ATF and easily brushed the burn ring out the next day. I didn't have any ATF and the only thing I have on hand close to solvent is charcoal lighter which I'm told is a low grade of Kerosene. Didn't work, even after an overnight soaking and fairly good brushing the 357's are a bit reluctant to go all the way home. I'm starting to think maybe it is the Lee brand Liquid Alox. The Lee tumble lube is wonderful stuff as far as I'm concerned even if it takes a little extra work and time cleaning it out. The time saved in the lubing process more than makes up for being a pita to clean.

 

Being an extreme cheapskate, at least that's what my better half claims!! I'm looking for a cheap home remedy I could soak the cylinder overnight in. I sprayed and scrubbed it with PB Blaster and I'm currently letting it sit overnight with cleaning patches saturated with the PB. I would likely have to empty the PB can and then some to get enough to soak it in a bowl. Being to chinsey (and lazy) to drive to Auto Zone and buy a can of ATF. If the PB Blaster doesn't work anybody have any suggestions for a home remedy for a cheapskate??

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It is mighty hard to beat the old Lewis Lead Remover that Brownells sells. They used to sell a reamer for really stubborn cylinder leading. It may still be in their lineup, but I have not noticed it in the catalog lately.

 

For extreme "cheap" try one of the Lead-Away type yellow impregnated cleaning cloths. Cut a tight patch and push it back and forth in the cylinder. Note that it will remove bluing!

 

Clemson

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It is mighty hard to beat the old Lewis Lead Remover that Brownells sells. They used to sell a reamer for really stubborn cylinder leading. It may still be in their lineup, but I have not noticed it in the catalog lately.

 

For extreme "cheap" try one of the Lead-Away type yellow impregnated cleaning cloths. Cut a tight patch and push it back and forth in the cylinder. Note that it will remove bluing!

 

Clemson

 

 

Thx Guys, the PB Blaster removed a good portion of it and the remainder came out with Lead-Away patches wrapped around a brush. Next time I do something crazy like shooting a few hundred 38's through it I'll do some brushing at the range rather than let it sit a few days. The ring that formed was rock hard.

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  • 2 months later...

Go to the grocery store and find a package of copper Chore Boy scrubber pads. The pad is held together by a little ring that is easy to fine. Cut the ring with dykes (or hire Rosie O'Donell to take care of it) and start unraveling like a sweater. Get an old, worn-out brush that you don't use any more, screw it on a cleaning rod, and start turning about 6" of the unraveled Chore Boy copper wire fiber onto it. It's kind-of like tying a fly (if you've done that sort of thing - I haven't since I left the Northwest).

 

Dunk your brush/copper wrap in your solvent of choice and start scrubbing. This will illustrate why its important to get all the copper out of a barrel before you start shooting lead - copper is like a lead magnet.

 

The Chore Boy fiber will physically remove lead fouling as fast as anything short of heating up your barrell to 700* F.

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