polishing equipment question

[Horsefly]

I need to get more serious about my polishing,and was wanting to know what I need to get started.I can't or won't go out and buy a 300 hp Baldor buffer just because it's suppose to be the best.I need something that'll do a good job and 2 or 3 guns a year.Working my way from 220 grit sandpaper up to 600 and using a Dremel is getting a little old,and still doesn't look as good as something done with a real buffer.Jerry

[Guest MorgansBoss]

Jerry, all you really need is a motor and one of those sleeve do-hickies to convert the smooth shaft to a threaded one. The sleeve slips over the shaft and tightens down with a set screw, then the wheel oges on it's threaded end just like a regular buffer / grinder. You can get really creative and rig up a reostat or pully system to vary the speed but all I've used is the direct-drive motor set up for years. It's all that's used in some other wise fancy shops.

[z1r]

If you really want to get serious about polishing you'll skip the buffer. You're more likely to mess up the finish than improve it. In the old days at S&W they made a guy apprentice for like 6 years before they ever let him touch a gun with the buffer. That was when S&W finishes were to die for.

 

Baldors are nice but you can get a pedestal arbor from Brownells for cheap that you can hook up to something like a washing machine motor.

[tinkerfive]

Jerry

 

I'm planing on doing exactly as MB describes.

 

I've got all the parts all I need is the time to put it together.

 

I got the arbor adapter, stand and buffing wheel from Harbor Freight.

 

We get thiese great motors that have years of life left in them at work

that have to be changed out for PM long before they might fail since

they are in a piece of life support equipment.

 

I could even send you one if you would pay the shipping.

 

I don't know what your time table is.

I'm certiain I'll get to it in the next few months.

I could send you a pic when I get it all together, so you can visulize it .

 

Tinker

 

 

[fritz]

Here's an old homemade buffer posted before the blackout occured-----

 

 

This one needs new wheels. The motor is just a 1/3 hp motor from an old gasoline pump. I rigged a handle onto the linkage that went to the starting lever.

 

fritz

[Clark]

If I can spin a part in the lathe, then sandpaper or Scotchbrite is the way I like to go.

 

Yesterday I asked my brother to TIG weld a bolt handle that I just made and sanded. He was not going to work on anything that had my crappy workmanship. He put the handle in HIS lathe and proceeded to file and sand it all over again. He got down to 2000 grit paper that he found in Boeing Surplus. The finish was mirror like. Then he sandblasted the weld area, and that part looks rough.

[Horsefly]

Thanks for the replies! I've got a motor I scrounged from one of our former washing machine or driers I'll try.I think it's 1750 rpm.Tinker,if it doesn't work,I'll take you up on your offer.I didn't even think of Harbor Freight,and we have one about 10 miles down the road.Since I have a small area to work in my garage,reckon it'd be best to make it portable so I can polish outside? Z,by being best to skip using a buffer,do you mean it would be best to keep sanding up to 600 grit?I haven't found any finer than that where I get my paper.Maybe I should have ask how you dudeds get your stuff ready to blue.I just took it for granted I was the only one that didn't have a buffer.Jerry

[Sailormilan2]

I've found 1000, 1500, 2000 grit paper. Usually in the autobody section of the Auto Parts store. I've seen some of that stuff in Walmart too. I'm not sure one needs that fine.

[z1r]

I've found 1000, 1500, 2000 grit paper.  Usually in the autobody section of the Auto Parts store.  I've seen some of that stuff in Walmart too.  I'm not sure one needs that fine.

3740[/snapback]

 

the problem with sand paper and buffers is that most folks, until they are very very experienced, tend to round off corners that should be sharp. Buffers also tend to give metal a wavey look, again, unless the polisher is very experienced. Here's a quick way to prove my point. take a flat piece of steel maybe 1/8" in thickness and drill ahole through it. Then, using paper, polish it up to say 320. Now look at the edges of the hole. they will be rounded. Do the same using stones and they will be square.

 

That's why I use stones. Keeps the straight parts straight. Since I rust blue, I only polish to 320. The parts I keep in the white will get polished up to 1000 if I want a shiney look. If you want to caustic blue and want a highley polished look then you can go higher, say to 600 or so. Any more is lost during the rusting process.

 

A buffer is faster though and for some folks that's all that matters.

 

[odies dad]

I picked up 2 arbor type setups recently. One I got for free from a second hand store in town. I needed to replace the cord but after that it worked fine. The other I paid $5 for at a garage sale and it works fine too. I put a wire wheel and a 1200 grit sandpaper wheel on one and 2 buffing wheels on the other. The whole thing is mounted on a cart so I can move it around.

I haven't tried it on any gun stuff yet but it works great on the polished aluminum on the Impala.