ken98k Posted November 11, 2008 Report Share Posted November 11, 2008 I want to load a bunch of rifle ammo without going to all the trouble of developing loads for specific rifles. Sort of generic factory ammo. Should I use starting loads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr.Hess Posted November 11, 2008 Report Share Posted November 11, 2008 In general, it is my observation that most factory ammo is loaded to the upper end of the load charts, not the lower (starting load) ends. Antique rounds like 45 LC may be different (the other way). If you want to duplicate factory loads but not go through the whole work up routine, it would be best of you picked a round and researched that and see what other people are using and happy with. In other words, let other people do the workup for you. There are also "recommended loads" available in a lot of the load manuals. Frequently they will have a "best accuracy" load or a "hunting" load. You could use those and be pretty good. And, the mags, like the NRA ones and other comercial mags, have reloading columns. A little work going through back issues at the library or an annual index on them may come up with some good load data for whatever you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiris Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 If your firearms are modern style, meaning brand name and good condition 98's, I would use a 2 grain or a 5% reduction from maximum listed loads. That's where I usually start my load work ups. It should be safe but still reasonably good for velocity. But still no guarantee for good groups. What calibers were you talking? Spiris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzRednek Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 Allot of research and testing goes into the published loads, especially the bullet manufactures, ie: Sierra, Speer, Hornady. Unless I know for certain I'm going hunting with a load I use starting loads. Below max loads are usually more accurate and fine for paper targets and tin cans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted November 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 If your firearms are modern style, meaning brand name and good condition 98's, I would use a 2 grain or a 5% reduction from maximum listed loads. That's where I usually start my load work ups. It should be safe but still reasonably good for velocity. But still no guarantee for good groups. What calibers were you talking? Spiris What I had in mind was making a bunch of 7x57, 6.5x55, 8x57 that I can use in which ever rifle I happen to want to shoot. I'm not after sub-minut accuracy, for example, 3"-4" at 100 yards would be acceptable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 The recomended hunting or accuracy load (depending on your application) in a reloading manual should pretty much mimic premium factory ammo. That's where I always started and then tweeked the load from there. If setting short to fit the throats of different rifles, I would use a crimp dies also to keep everything consistant. I crimp and seal all my hunting ammo anyway. -Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzRednek Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 I crimp and seal all my hunting ammo anyway. -Don Don, how do you seal your hunting ammo?? I did it years ago using a commercial sealant I haven't seen around for years. It smelled like thinned finger nail polish. I didn't want to use it but we had a jerk in our shooting circle and for some silly reason I can't recall he wouldn't let us shoot our reloads in his Thompson unless they were sealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 That's the stuff I use, smells like nail polish. The bottle I have on hand now say's "Markron Custom Bullet and Primer Sealer" made by Roboco Laboratories in Oregon. I think I got it from Cabelas last time. Most of the time I'm hunting it's in the snow, I figured it's all the time for Kenny. -Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzRednek Posted November 17, 2008 Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 The stuff I had worked pretty good as a substitute for Locktite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr.Hess Posted November 17, 2008 Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 That's funny, 'cuz I've used Loctite as a substitute for primer sealant. I found that the Red Loctite worked quite well, but took a few days to dry. I shot some after 10 years on the shelf and had no problems. Not sure if my PM went through as my system burped, but thanks again for the brass/lube, Az. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Gibson Posted November 17, 2008 Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 What I had in mind was making a bunch of 7x57, 6.5x55, 8x57 that I can use in which ever rifle I happen to want to shoot. I'm not after sub-minut accuracy, for example, 3"-4" at 100 yards would be acceptable. The Lyman "New Edition" #43 manual has loads high lighted as "potentially most accurate" for each cartridge mentioned. Larry Gibson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzRednek Posted November 18, 2008 Report Share Posted November 18, 2008 Doc, got the PM, your welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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