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How to get 300 Win Mag to feed in VZ24?


Clark

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I did the bolt face, the extractor, and the mag well.

 

I can't see how to do the feed ramp and the mag lips.

 

Any hints?

TIA

Clark

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I did the bolt face, the extractor, and the mag well.

 

I can't see how to do the feed ramp and the mag lips.

 

Any hints?

TIA

Clark

4055[/snapback]

 

Clark,

 

I haven't done it, but here's what Jerry Kuhnhausen says the bigger cartridge must strip and breakover (straigthen towards the chamber and come up under the extractor) 1/2 to 2/3 of the way forward.

 

He says to start by smoothing and chamfering both rails (since rough surfaces will exagerate bad feeding), without moving the taper of the front of the feeding rails back at first. Then try the feeding on the right with a single round, slowly clearancing the rail until it quits cocking over to the left and strips and breaks over.

 

Hope this is helpful. It's on page 194 of the book, which I highly recommend. It's taught me a lot, and the pictures are great. I've got a boatload of stuff coming from Midway and Brownells and am going to start my first one next week.

 

Good luck,

 

Steve

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Thanks Steve,

I paid for Keunhausen's book in 1999, but I can't seem to read it, and it now sits at my brother's house.

 

I will start filing.

Clark

 

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Clark,

 

Before you start filing on the receiver, try widening the magazine box.

 

The formula I was given a long time ago is supposedly what Mauser used to calculate magazine dimensions for his rifles.

 

Cos 30* x case width (in inches) = _______________ + case head (in inches)= width. Also, its not a terrible idea to add around .004" to allow for wiggle and dirt.

 

Mauser decided the cartridges should stack at more or less a 30* angle.

 

Get a cartridge drawing and run some computations for the belt and shoulder and points in between and open the magazine up. Then you'll have to lengthen the magazine. Then try feeding before you alter the receiver. Metal removed can't be replaced. Once you get the magazine worked out and mated to the reciever, then start to judiciously remove metal.

 

This is what I was told to do when I started working on my 8x68s and though I haven't finished that project yet, I did do enough work to it to see the instructions I was given are pretty sound.

 

I think it'll help that you have most of the right tools. It also may help to have an unaltered rifle handy to compare what a proper feeding rifle looks like to what you're working on.

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