Bad Day At The Range

[AzRednek]

Got my scope from China, installed it on the JC Penny's rifle I acquired a few months ago and I was totally thrilled with the rifle and scope. I bore sighted and sighted in the Penny's rifle with the new Chinese Leupold counterfeit scope. Shooting late 60's Korean surplus ammo I was printing clusters at 75 yards. I was printing clusters about 3-4 inches high and decided not to adjust the scope anymore and to take one more shot before the break before I moved the target to 100. Took the final shot and crack!!

 

Hopefully I can fix it with Gorilla Glue. This rifle and Chinese scope are definitely keepers. I horse traded for this rifle with the intention of re-barreling it to 338/06 or 25/06. After printing clusters with it today just no way I'll pull the barrel. Best I can tell from internet searches this JC Penny's rifle is a made in the UK Parker Hale built with a Spanish, Santa Barbara Mauser action.

 

The Chinese scope did everything it was supposed to but I'll have to shoot a hundred or two with it before I have the confidence the reticles aren't going to move from recoil. I also took a re-barreled Winchester 1917 chambered in 30/06. The Enfield has a cheapie but old enough to have a metal body Bushnell Banner 3-9. I was continually re-adjusting the scope every 3 to 4 shots because the vertical reticle kept moving left. Apx 25 shots after sighting it in, the second time I had the scope recoil into my face after I cranked the power up to 9. I decided to throw in the towel on the Bushnell scope. There is enough eye relief on the Chinese scopes with the power cranked up all the way. I'll replace the Bushnell with another counterfeit Leupold or put one of my old Weaver 4X's on it.

[Dr.Hess]

Hey Az,

If you get another of those chinese clone scopes and you can get a break on the shipping, I'll go in with you.

The gunsmith guy in SGN had some recommendations on the best wood glue to use for repairs like that. I should have saved the article. He slops the glue on and then wraps the stock with surgical tubing to hold it all together while it dries.

[Rojelio]

Wow!! Az, when you break one, you don't mess around. I've never seen one break exactly like that before.

[AzRednek]

Wow!! Az, when you break one, you don't mess around. I've never seen one break exactly like that before.

 

I suspect the action was loose starting out as a hairline crack and repeated shooting did it in. Years ago I had a 308 Norma break at the wrist. Repaired it with Elmer's Glue and it lasted 3-4 shots after the fix. I have a Stevens 311 D/B shotgun that I repaired a crack in the wrist back in the 70's and it is still holding. I put a couple of tapered head small wood screws in it after drilling tiny holes. I buried the heads under the wood. I smeared Elmer's into the crack and covered the screw holes up with putty. Sanded the entire stock down, re- stained and finished it. The 308 Norma I used a couple of brass tacks and it just didn't work. The Norma one of my first projects most likely was not properly inletted. If I can't fix the Penny's rifle I have a couple of Mauser stocks in storage. The Penny's rifle being a some what unique Mauser I'd like to keep it original as much as possible. The stock appears to be walnut so it's worth the effort fixing it and much easier and allot less work than fitting another stock on to it.

[gun nutty]

Don't you carefully complete the break, use Acra-Glass as a bonding agent, and clamp together?

 

I took a stock to a 'smith who do it this way, and you couldn't even see the break. I doubt it will ever split again, at least not at the original split.

[AzRednek]

Don't you carefully complete the break, use Acra-Glass as a bonding agent, and clamp together?

 

I took a stock to a 'smith who do it this way, and you couldn't even see the break. I doubt it will ever split again, at least not at the original split.

 

I used glass bedding years ago on a 22. You're correct about it not showing when done properly. I'm partial to Gorilla Glue though. I've used it on my rental units to repair counter tops, floor tile, cabinet veneer, doors and door jambs and it doesn't budge. The problem with GG is it expands slightly as it hardens and takes a few days to cure. I'm going to refinish the stock and hopefully it wont look to bad. I've also used a clear epoxy I might consider.

[swamprat]

Gorilla glue is no good for this repair. It will give way. Gorilla glue does expand but it will also compress. If there is any movement or compression the bond joint will losen. Elmers yellow carpenters glue is the best I've found for stock repair. Just ease open the crack and work the glue down into it(you can blow it into the crack with compessed air if needed). Donot split the pieces apart and try to reglue. Alignment is all but imposible. Strips of old tire inner tube work great for clamping. Just stretch them a little when wrapping,as they set they will constrict and keep good solid pressure on the wood.

 

Swamprat

[rivitir]

Glad that stock didn't put a wood slither in your hand. With that much damage I would think it would be better to get a new stock instead of trying to fix that one.

[FC]

I've read that Gorilla glue requires a bit of moisture to cure, so you may need to wet the wood a bit. I do lots of woodworking, and rarely use anything but yellow carpenters' glue. Clamp very tight. There had to be a lot of stresses in the wood, for lack of a better word.