375 H&h Mauser Build

[dirtyjim]

Ok Jim,

thanks for the info. Where do you get the galzan pad? I like the rifle so far. I really want one in 375 H&H someday but ive read it takes too much out of the feed ramp and it weakens the action...you obviously dont agree?

How do you go about fitting the barrel band swivel? I wanted to do one of those my self.Where did you get the front sight? Ive seen some from NEGC but they are pretty expensive.

i got the pad from Connecticut Shotgun Manufacturing Company they are the maker and have them instock unlike midway. they also sell a black version called the technically superior pad that would look real nice on a more modern style build.

galazan pads

the barrel band swivel and front sight are soldered on with hi-force-44, front sight is a necg banded from brownells or midway.

 

the the same smiths who say you cant open up an action for a 375H&H also cant produce a picture or any proof that one failed because of it.

 

 

Jim,

 

Looking great! How did you handle opening up the action? Did you split the difference and open up the receiver from both the front and rear or did your magazine cause you take most of it out of the feed ramp? I've thought about doing a project like this forever but have always been warned off by the gunsmiths I know.

 

-Jason

i opened the action up mostly in the front. the bottom metal used determines where you open up the action.

the back wall of the receiver is cut square with smp bottom metal bringing the mag box slightly back and i did end up cutting cut about .010 off the bolt stop, but the vast majority is removed from the front. i had the move the feed ramp forward .188".

basically all you do is cut the back wall of the receiver square so the bottom metal will bolt on then scribe the insides of the magbox.

mark where the shouler of the cartridge is going to be them scribe another line about .050 towards the action opening to push the cartride towards the centerline of the action as the bolt is being worked. if you hold a stripped action upside down and push a 8mm cartridge down the rails you should be able to see what needs to be done. i've also seen actions the didn't have the bump in the rails that fed just fine too.

 

i opened mine up with a x-y table on a drill press with a carbide burr since i don't have a mill yet. it worked but required a lot more polishing afterwards than using a mill would have. i should have my mill before i do another.

[ken98k]

if you hold a stripped action upside down and push a 8mm cartridge down the rails you should be able to see what needs to be done.

 

Never heard that tip before but it makes perfect sense to me. Thanks.

[psuedoperson]

Jim,

Thanks! found the recoil pads. I like the red one that you have for my build too. How did you fit the barrel band swivel since they aren't tapered but the barrel is? Also what do you do to drill for your sights? how do you secure the barrel for drilling? Sorry for all the questions but this build is my first one and i really dont know what i'm doing...

Matt

[dirtyjim]

the barrel bands have to be peened to fit the taper of the barrel. i have a small ball peen hammer that i use. just order the band slightly smaller than the spot on the barrel you are going to put it the slide it on a lightly peen around the band till it slides into position, then sand out the marks.

to line up the sights i use 3 12" long sections of 1/4" keystock. i place one section on top of a short piece of 1/2" keystock thats in the bolt raceway then use a level to level it up, i use superglue to keep it in place while i'm working.

i then place the front sight in position with a piece of 1/4"x12" long keystock on top of it. i then get behind the rifle and sight down it, and rotate the front sight till both sections of keystock are parallel. i then tighten the set screw & solder it on. i do the same with the rear sight but once its lined up i clamp the base in place, move it to my drill press & drill & tap through the holes while its still on the barrel. i have a old crafssman radial arm drill press with a x-y table so its pretty easy to line up the holes but still nowhere near as good as a mill would be.

[dirtyjim]

i finaly got around to rust bluing the metal, i still have to rust blue the gripcap and the ends of the recoil crossbolt.

the stock has been sealed and after i give it a few days to dry i'll start on the finish. it will get red oil, blo-tinted with alcanet root, for a classic style finish.

i also have a canvas & leather sling from jeff's outfitters for it.