Guest Acts 11:7 Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 I have been trolling this site for a couple months. I recently got 1939 8mm Turkish Mauser. First thing I did was clean it really well. I have shot 10 rounds through it. It shot about a 5 inch group at 100 yards for me so I am sure the barrel is good enough for me to sporterize this gun. The barrel and action have lots of pits, but I put my way through college at a mold polishing shop so I was able to get the action to a 220 finish with little effort. One question I have is what do most of you do with the ring that is on the end of the action? I removed mine to find it was threaded on. Is there a ring I can buy to thread back on that will disguise the step from the action to the barrel? Or should I consider grinding the threads off and live with the step. I thought about machining them off, but realize I would then have to modify the barrel and I just dont want to do that knowing it shoots a decent group with factory ammo as is. Another question is how to fill the rear site set screw hole? I think I should do this before I turn the barrel down. Any suggestions? Thanks for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 One question I have is what do most of you do with the ring that is on the end of the action? I removed mine to find it was threaded on. Is there a ring I can buy to thread back on that will disguise the step from the action to the barrel? Or should I consider grinding the threads off and live with the step. Another question is how to fill the rear site set screw hole? I think I should do this before I turn the barrel down. Any suggestions? Thanks for all the help. Can you post a photo of what you are referring to? If you are referring to the hand guard retainer ring, I've never seen one that was threaded. I'd like to see a photo. When sporterizing a Turk most of us will remove this ring by grinding, filing , mill or whatever. Only Turks have this ring, to my knowledge. As to the screw hole, if you had the 8MM reamer or the headspace were just the right amount of excessive you could set the shoulders back 1/24" ( = 1/2 turn ) and just turn the screw hole from the 12:00 position where you see it, to the 6:00 position where it is covered by the fore arm of the stock. Looking forward to the photo Tinker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Are you referring to this ring at the front of the action? If so this ring is normally machined off as part of the sporterizing process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Acts 11:7 Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 ken98k, In general, that is what I am referring to. However your action and mine are different. My ring was threaded on. When I smoothed out the pits a seam appeared between the action and this ring. Also at the face of the action it was clear there were threads under the ring. I will take a photo tonight to try and shed some light on this. Thanks for the help. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Is your Turk a "K. Kale"? The Turks also converted some standard configuration Mausers to Turk "specs". The first couple of inside threads inside the receiver ring are machined out to accommodate the conversion. Does the receiver ring have a cutout for bullet noses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Acts 11:7 Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Here is a picture before I ground the action down. It is not a K. Kale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 That's a pre-98, small ring, cock-on-closing, 1893 action. http://www.turkmauser.com/93/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 That's avery interesting alteration that I've never seen before. Personally, I would leave the action as is and get a 98 action to build your sporter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 That's a pre-98, small ring, cock-on-closing, 1893 action. http://www.turkmauser.com/93/ For Acts benefit... 1939 was the year that the rifle was converted to fire 8MM ammo. That is when the notch was cut at the rear of the ring so that 8mm ammo could be loaded via stripper clips. Please be advised that action does not employ some of the safety features of a 98 style. No safety lug on the bolt, no gas deflector on the shroud. Tinker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Acts 11:7 Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Thanks for all the help guys. The end of the Barrel is stamped German 8mm 1893. I knew the turks reworked this gun in 1939 but was unsure what to go by as far as ordering parts and what not. I have come to realize I may have picked one of the hardest guns possible for a first time project. If it did'nt shoot so well I would bag it now. As far as the trigger goes...if I swap it for one that does not have the piece in front to engage the bolt, will it work, will it be safe? I dont mind the harder pull currently, but I know long term I would benefit from a lighter pull. I have a feeling that I am about to embark on a spoterizing project that is fairly uncommon. Do any of you out there have a sporter from this era that I could see pictures of? The 98 actions without this ring issue sure seem like a piece of cake compared to this. I am going to the big show in Novi, MI this Saturday. I am going to get a another action to get my next project going. Any suggestions on a action? I now have a 8mm and a British 303. I was leaning toward the 7mm. What action would be best for a 7mm cartridge with little modification as possible? By the way, I dont mind recoil so if a larger recomendation is out there I would like to hear it also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
724wd Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 the 7mm and 8mm cases are basically the same, save the bullet diameter. any mauser chambered for 8mm will be a slam dunk for a 7mm conversion. As for what action to buy, i'd suggest a 1898 like you said, but from there things get interesting. there are still some russian captured 98s out there, but the prices are rising. VZ24's are still out there, but the same with the RC's, they're not cheap. then you have the intermediates, which are great actions, but the stock choices are not quite as plentiful as a standard 98. if possible, do you have someone who knows mausers that can accompany you so you get what you need? my other suggestion would be to purchase one on the internet. finding one on gun broker or a private website would allow you to post it here and ask questions so you're assured you get what you want. my .02. heath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Acts 11:7 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Here is a picture of my 93 action. I decided to take the threads that were on the outside off. I am pretty happy with how well the action and barrel mary up. I have just began here so please dont hammer me for the rough looking barrel. I am going to finish the action, bolt, then the barrel. I have a great peice of Walnut I am going to build a stock from this spring. This Mauser stuff is an addiction! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 I'm betting the barrel is going to seperate from the action when you pull the trigger. May not happen the first time, or even the tenth, but it will happen. Hope you don't get hurt when it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
724wd Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I'm betting the barrel is going to seperate from the action when you pull the trigger. May not happen the first time, or even the tenth, but it will happen. Hope you don't get hurt when it goes. why do you say that, kenny? what are you seeing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I'm betting the barrel is going to seperate from the action when you pull the trigger. May not happen the first time, or even the tenth, but it will happen. Hope you don't get hurt when it goes. I'm missing it too. From the description he's given, the barrel near the receiver had some threads on it. He's removed them. Those threads offer no additional strength to the chamber area. As long as he hasn't gone any deeper than the original thread depth, he should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Acts 11:7 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I hope your wrong. The ring I removed had little to nothing to do with the overall stength of the action. From there I removed the threads that held on the ring. If I look close enough I can still see parts of the old threads. I count 6 threads inside the action when inserting the barrel into the action. Only 1 to 1.5 of the threads are exposed in the extension. The rest of the rings are in the action beyond that point. I saw where one guy took the extension completely off from his 93 action and shortened the thread length of the barrel to accomadate the looks. If 4.5 threads will hold I must believe this will hold? Am I nuts here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 After looking at your photos again I will admit I really don't know what you have there. What are these shiny peices, barrel, or receiver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 After looking at your photos again I will admit I really don't know what you have there. What are these shiny peices, barrel, or receiver? I think that I've figured out what he's done. Top arrow points to "secondary" torque shoulder. Bottom arrow points to the barrel threads that he's removed. The line in between would have been the 'thread relief'. He's taken the 'shiny' part down to the minor thread diameter around .88" I don't know 93 actions but, if someone before may have stuck a barrel from an 03 on there that might account for an added 'dress' ring that he's removed. The thread shank length for an 03 is in the neighborhood of .77". What is the nominal thread length for a 93? At 12 threads per inch, if a .77 barrel were screwed into a receiver with .5" of threads, he'd see around 2 threads sticking out from the face of the receiver. I hope y'all could follow that. Tinker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Acts 11:7 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 I appologize for not explaining the pics better. In one pic the barrel is screwed in tight. In the other I unthreaded the barrel a little so all of you could see where the seam between the action and the barrel is. You actually need to compare the two pics against one another to get a good idea. Again I am sorry for the confusion. So now that we have that all figured out...what do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Acts 11:7 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Here is another pic. I hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Looks like you will have about 4 threads inside the unaltered part of the receiver. I think you should have left the ring in place and machined it down to match the receiver, instead creating a step on the receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Here is another pic. I hope this helps. Well obviously most of my last post was wrong. I was right about the secondary torque shoulder but that's about it. So were both the 'shiny' part of the barrel and receiver both threaded with one dress ring covering them both or just the 'shiny' part of the receiver? Tinker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Acts 11:7 Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Ken98, I tried just what you said at first. The major problem with that was the amount of pitting on the ring in the first place. I ground it down and got to a 220 finish, but by the time all the pits were out a very visible seam appeared between the action and this ring. I actually looked all over for a replacement ring to use like a barrel lock on modern rifles to no avail. Another eye sore was where the ring ended at the barrel joint. The threads that were under the ring on the outside of the action began to show and it looked like it would always collect dirt and grime. The ring was only threaded on the action. I took the threads down very slowly with a file with the barrel attached so the two would mary up nice when done. My concern now is if I could angle that step down to the barrel? Would I be creating a major safety issue? How thick does the action need to be to maintain integrity? I have the same questions for the barrel as well. Can I turn all the steps down? How much if any can I take off the chamber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 If you have access to a lathe, I'd just turn a bushing/band to fit over the end of the receiver where the old bushing was. I would not take anything else off the receiver or try to "blend" things. An aftermarket barrel will probably cover the bushing-receiver joint as you look at from the front of the receiver. To use the existing barrel, you could also turn a flange that would fit between the barrel and the receiver, much like a modern "sandwiched" recoil lug (i.e. Remington M700, Savage M110). Are there actually any threads inside that stepped section at the end of the receiver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 My concern now is if I could angle that step down to the barrel? Would I be creating a major safety issue? How thick does the action need to be to maintain integrity? I have the same questions for the barrel as well. Can I turn all the steps down? How much if any can I take off the chamber? The strength comes from the thickness of the barrel, so if you have enough threads (4) to hold the barrel in the action you should be okay. I suppose you could completely remove that forwardmost portion of the receiver that is stepped, you would also shorten the threaded end of the barrel an equal amount, and rechamber. I would leave it and do like Gun Nutty suggested and have a ring made that will slide on over the step. That way you wont run into issues when stocking the rifle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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