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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Mosin Barrel Thread Question


Sailormilan2

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Mosin's are on page 5 of this PDF

 

Flatulant Chicken may want to make this a sticky/archive file for future reference.

 

Lots of good barrel shank thread info.

 

Well crud link was there and then got poofed. Here it is again.

 

http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/iB_html/uploads/post-71-40666-BSD_small.pdf

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I am trying to get a barrel unscrewed, and it is on TIGHT!. It won't budge. I'm soaking it in Kroil. I've heated it and beat it. So far, no luck.

 

 

I find a mix of 50/50 ATF and laquer thinner works very well as a penetrant. Stand on muzzle and drizzle the mix around the barrel stub inside reciever. Heat is good, to much heat is bad as it carbonizes the oil in the penetrant and makes it into a glue. Use a heat gun or hair dryer. Heat cool, heat cool, heat cool repeatedly to allow penetrant into threads.If beating be cautious about dinging the reciever.

 

Try using a hack saw with a very fine blade to cut a ring around the barrel shoulder just forward of the ring. This relieves compression stress of shoulder against reciever ring.

 

Good Luck

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A friend has a Mosin with a shot out barrel. For a replacement barrel he has a barrel with a stub receiver. I am trying to get the stub receiver off the newer barrel. I have used a 5' bar on the handle of the receiver wrench, and all that happens is the barrel turns in the vise. I am using copper water pipe as barrel bushing. I may have to make an aluminum bushing to using the barrel vise.

I have never had a Mauser this tight. I am a big guy, and I preloaded the 5' cheater bar, and had friend smack the bar with a 4' 4x4. My hope was that the sudden shock would break it loose, but so far it hasn't happened.

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I am trying to get a barrel unscrewed, and it is on TIGHT!. It won't budge. I'm soaking it in Kroil. I've heated it and beat it. So far, no luck.

 

the first couple of mosin barrels i pulled were done without cutting a relief groove and they were extremely tight, after i started cutting a relief groove about .030 in front of the receiver they came off real easy.

the shank on a remington 700 barrel will just clean up for a mosin.

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I have used a 5' bar on the handle of the receiver wrench, and all that happens is the barrel turns in the vise. I am using copper water pipe as barrel bushing. I may have to make an aluminum bushing to using the barrel vise.

 

I have found aluminum bushings and liberal use of rosin work well for me.

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If the barrel is a keeper and the stub reciever junk cut the relief groove in the reciever ring.

 

Whacking is good, but using a wooden 4x4 isn't as effective as a steel hammer. The wood compressing at point of impact acts as a shock absorber.

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  • 6 years later...
On 5/5/2011 at 2:34 PM, pacrat said:

If the barrel is a keeper and the stub reciever junk cut the relief groove in the reciever ring.

 

Whacking is good, but using a wooden 4x4 isn't as effective as a steel hammer. The wood compressing at point of impact acts as a shock absorber.

^^ This

 

If the impulse of a smack with a 4x4 didn't work, it will need a relief cut.  Since the receiver is junk and the barrel is good, make a relief cut on the receiver just behind the barrel shoulder.

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7 hours ago, brokengun said:

I have a noticed some Mosin Nagant barrels have a slightly smaller shank closer to 0.975 

I have a question is there a tap for the mosin nagant ? 

Going back to my automotive experience in the late 60's to early 70's. I can't recall the name but there was a factory in Japan that would custom make any size tap or die. Orders were placed with a Los Angeles office and the tools arrived from Japan 60-90 days later. The only one I saw was a tap or better described as a thread chaser for a left handed thread for a tapered bolt. It was used on some kind of farm equipment. The other one I wasn't personally involved with but through the business I worked for. Was for a weird thread on a large Dutch mfd engine's valve guide used at a copper mine. Best I recall the engine mfr was no longer in business. I can't recall the numbers but they were very expensive. My guess, the cost of a custom made tap would be beyond ridiculous. I can recall my boss getting a quote for a custom die for an auto restorer and the customer backed out because of the price. If I remember right the tap was for rethreading tirods for a Packard or Hudson using a similar sized part for a later model auto. 

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I would be surprised if a tap was not available on Brownells.  You might call them if you can't find it on their web page. 

 

A tool and die maker could make you one, or you could get a take off barrel with good threads, carefully cut some flutes in the threads, then harden it by heating it red hot and cooling it in a bucket of oil, then heat it up less and let it cool in air so it's not so brittle.  That would probably work.  Especially if you turned the barrel down to the minor diameter or a little under, just past the threads to give you a bit more length to work with when you put it into the receiver.

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