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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Arc Welder


FC

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I've wanted a Lincoln arc welder since I was a teenager. I know- you all probably recommend a TIG, but I don't do bolt handles, and they are expensive. I have a cheap so-called MIG, and an aceytlene rig. Reading up on it, I see that AC/DC is the way to go, since DC is best for thin welding. The best price ($500), by far, is from Northern. I don't weld a lot, but when you need to weld, it's sure nice to have. Thoughts? I could probably just get by with the cheapo MIG and acetylene, and save money, but I'm still tempted.

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I have an AC only Miller SMAW (stick) welder, 220V input, up to 230 amps output. I bought it from my neighbor for a hundred bucks or so, maybe 20 years ago now, with cables, clamps, a hood, and ~100 lbs of rod. I use it when it positively HAS to stick. My little 110V HF MIG will do fine on sheet metal, and fair on 1/8", but over that, I get out the cables, and I usually break it out at 1/8" thick to anything else. Having never welded with a stick welder on DC, I can't compare, but everything I've done with this AC box has held together. I've done a lot of stainless with it, some cast iron, and a lot of steel. I have, over the years, considered building a rectifier for it to get to DC, but as this set up does everything I want, I have never got to it. "They say" DC splatters less. I would also argue that MIG (true MIG, not flux core) is better for thin than the stick. I have done 16ga with my stick, but I really don't want to do that and anything over some spots is really, really hard.

 

These type of things come up used all the time. Craigslist, ebay, etc. I would shop there for a while before blowing five bills on new.

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FC, I recently replaced my AC only lincoln welder with a lincoln AC/DC. It's like a difference between night and day welding gun parts.

 

For bolt handles, I use a lincoln rod 3/32 6013 set at 75 amp positive ground DC. It welds smooth with little to no splatter. With a heat sinc and heat control paste and a wet rag wrapped around the recoil lugs, no damage is done to the bolt. Just cool after each pass.

 

I'm sure a tig would be a lot better for 3 times the cost. But, you also have to consider the learning curve with a tig.

 

Anyway, that's my opinion. I say go for the AC/DC. You won't regret it.

 

Roger

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I had an older one of these until it was stolen from a jobsite. http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=lincoln+225&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=12132541439096434361&sa=X&ei=LUtRTpftE6PiiALogpGYAQ&ved=0CDQQ8wIwAA

 

There are better machinesw out there but the old Tombstone is still a standard fixture in many shops.

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I had an older one of these until it was stolen from a jobsite. http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=lincoln+225&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=12132541439096434361&sa=X&ei=LUtRTpftE6PiiALogpGYAQ&ved=0CDQQ8wIwAA

 

There are better machinesw out there but the old Tombstone is still a standard fixture in many shops.

 

Yep, that's just like the one I replaced. For down and dirty those are hard to beat. Funny thing is mine was stolen, too. I had been thinking about replacing it with an AC/DC already so that just sped up the process.

 

Roger

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Tony,

 

**A man can't own too many tools.**

 

I don't do much metal work but I do have a few projects I could tackle if I had the proper tools. If you have cheap MIG and an oxy rig and you're thinking about buying a stick welder, you really should consider a big chop saw and angle grinder to round out your metal working tools. You can pick both of these up at reasonable cost and they'll save you a lot of time and grief.

 

With that said, you can fix just about anything with a good stick welder. Down here, we call a 220V stick welder a "cracker box" welder and they're almost a requirement if you own a farm. My dad has an Lincoln AC/DC cracker box and we've used it to build and repaired box trailers, duck blinds, etc. Its pretty handy to have. I'm going to buy one, one of these days, because I'll never be able to talk him into loaning it to me. With a good stick welder, an oxy rig, and grinder, you can fab up just about anything.

 

Its been long enough since I've needed to do any welding that I honestly can't remember when you need DC+, DC-, or AC to weld with but I do know that certain types of metals and welding positions call for specific currents to be done correctly and buying an AC/DC welder will afford you the best opportunity to get the job done correctly.

 

I would rate stick welder brands as follows:

1. Lincoln (what dad has)

2. Miller (what I used in shop class)

3. Hobart

.

.

.

4. everything else

As with all things, you get what you pay for!

 

Also, I remember Fritz mentioning once that if you owned the right stick welder, you could buy a TIG attachment for it and use it as a TIG welder (you just don't get the high frequency starter current). I'm pretty sure this is how he did all his bolt handles.

 

Best bet is to have cash in hand and watch Craiglist and the local stuff listings. In this economy, I'd bet you could find someone looking to unload a decent welder at a price you could live with. Keep your eyes open and you'll be needing to wire up a 220V outlet in your garage in no time.

 

BTW - a couple other handy tools: buy a metal speed square and a sliding T-bevel. They're great for figuring out angles.

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There's some good welding information sites out there where I read about the a/c and d/c welds. TIG is pretty pricey, and I've never done it. I appreciate the information.

 

I've got a lot of tools, including a chop saw for only $25 on clearance a few years ago, an angle grinder, and lots of woodworking tools. I had to put ADT on the garage with the crime rates around here.

 

I'm good at finding clearance deals, but won't find a clearance on a welder they never quit building.

 

Guess what? I bought two Velux skylights, hand crank open model, regular $397 each for $92 each! One Lowes store was getting rid of them.

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Hi Tony,

DC is definately the way to go.If you get the AC/DC you can get a tig dry torch setup for around $100 and a bottle of argon and you can tig weld bolt handles and such. You will not have the high frequency so nonferrous metals are out but it is still very useful and well worth the investment. A lot of times you can find these setups at used tool outlets as they are common industrial maintenance setups.

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I haven't sold welders since the early 70's. I'm kind of curious if Lincoln, Marquette or any of the well known brand names of welders are still made in the USA? I wouldn't be surprised to see "made in China" on the name brand electric welders today. About the time I left that business in 75. Taiwan mfd welding rod was coming into the market being sold by a competitor for about 25-30% less.

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Tony, can't your local weld shop order one? I'd be surprise if they can't. As for welders I use a small miller inverter type dc only welder for stick and tig. I got mine used for $500. There are tons of them one ebay right now cheap. They work great for anything I've ever needed it for. I don't weld aluminum so that's not an issue. In the last five years that's the only welder I've used. Only once did I send an aluminum part to Rod to weld. They are 110/220 and real small, easy for me to carry around up of roofs and places I need to weld for work also. Look up Miller Maxstar 150, I use the HF model but even the lower end units have a lift arc start so you don't need to scatch start when tig welding. If you don't tig get a base unit you can always add the tig torch and foot pedal later. Just food for thought.

Don

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