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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

New Mwmber With New Old Mauser


gregaba

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Hi

I just bought a 1903 Turkish Mauser marked 1937 on the receiver. From what I have been able to find out I have a large ring receiver with a small ring barrel.

I was on Boydes site and they market their stocks as a large ring or a small ring.

My first question would be what ring size stock should I buy. I was thinking a large ring but wasn't sure if the barrel would match the stock.

The barrel on this weapon is the worst I have ever seen. I couldn't even get the cleaning patch to run thou but finally got a brush to go and then was able to use the patch's. Every one came out black after about fifty of them.

I then plugged the barell and soaked it with carb cleaner and tried it again. Same result. I then used PB Blaster for 4 hours. Same result.

I decided the barrel wasn't going to clean up so am going to install an 18 inch barrel and build a carbine.

I have found a very good small ring barrel for $20.00 and was wondering if this would work with the large ring receiver since it is allready a small ring barrel installed in it.

I hope I have been clear in my explanation as it is a little confuseing.

I haven't worked on a Mauser since JR. High when I sportized my first rifle.

Thanks

Greg

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From what I understand, there is quite a variety of Turks. I have two myself. There are large ring receiver OD's with a small ring barrel (most common, I think) and those with a large ring barrel (more rare), for example. Then there's 95 type actions and 98 type actions. So, if you're going to pull the barrel off anyway, I suggest pulling it apart and measuring exactly what you have, then contacting the stock maker directly and tell them what you have and what you want.

 

And just for the hell of it, you might try shooting the barrel on there. I've heard that some sewer pipe looking barrels can actually shoot quite well. You never know. And welcome to the site.

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The 1903 Turk was a German made version that was converted to 8mm Mauser with the date stamped on the receiver and the receiver is notched for clearance for the converted 8mm ammo.

This action is an intermediate length and fits the Yugo 48 and 24/47 style stocks. Many have been sporterized into some fine custom rifles.

It is a large ring action with small ring threads, and if you are lucky enough to have a M96/M38 Swede barrel laying around, it doesn't get much better.

 

You can take a look at www.turkmauser.com for some info if you haven't seen it before.

 

 

Spiris

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The 1903 Turk was a German made version that was converted to 8mm Mauser with the date stamped on the receiver and the receiver is notched for clearance for the converted 8mm ammo.

This action is an intermediate length and fits the Yugo 48 and 24/47 style stocks. Many have been sporterized into some fine custom rifles.

It is a large ring action with small ring threads, and if you are lucky enough to have a M96/M38 Swede barrel laying around, it doesn't get much better.

 

You can take a look at www.turkmauser.com for some info if you haven't seen it before.

 

 

Spiris

 

Actually, the 1903 Turk is a Standard length Mauser on the exterior. However, it uses an intermediate length bolt, like the 1909 Peruvian Mauser.

The 1903 Turk and the 1909 Peruvian are virtually identical, except for the counter boring at the front of the receiver on the Turk. On both of the receivers, the rear of the ring extends further to the rear because of the shorter bolt. About .2".

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As far as your stock goes Boyd's has a picture to look at with measurements on it to go off of. So measure the outside of the front receiver ring, and triggerguard screw spacing and those numbers will tell you what stock you will need. If you already have a G.I. stock for it why not go ahead and shoot it and see what it does you just might be surprised. Before you order a barrel, pull the old barrel off, because it's bit me in the A** a couple of times ordering a barrel for a Turk 98 action thinking they are all small shank thread size, THEY ARE NOT, I have one on one of my rifles, and I did one for a friend a year ago, that were the large thread size.If you decide to rebarrel the action and find out the thread size you need there are several people around here to give you some very good advice on the in's and out's of installing a barrel, there's a little more to it than just screwing it on the action. Good luck, let us know what you find out, and don't be afraid to ask questions.

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Hi

Thanks for all of the good information.

If I understand correctly then I can buy a bent bolt off of a yugo and use it in my turk? The reason I am asking is because I had planned on adding a scope and was going to bend my bolt to fit. If I could buy a yugo bolt it would save me a lot of work.

The advice about checking the barrel is a good ideal. I will do that. I was going to have a gun smith do the barrel change because it is a little over my talents. I am a mechanic and not a gun smith.

I went to boydes and checked the measurements and it showed I have a large ring reciever. That was the reason for my orgional question as I am not the smartest one in the class.

Does anyone know the measurements of the intermediate bolt compared to the standard one?

These seem to be a little like the hot rods I build a little of everything else in the build and not all the same.

Thanks

Greg

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Here is a photo of 3 Mauser bolts. From left to right, standard length Mauser 98, 1909 Peruvian (same as a 1903 Turk), Yugo M48 bolt. Essentially, the Yugo and the Peruvian/Turk bolts are the same length. However, the Yugo bolts lack two small projections on the front of the bolt face that the ejector goes through. These serve as guides for extraction and ejection purposes, and really aren't needed.

If you plan on getting a Yugo bolt, test several to make sure that you get one that fits and works. Due to manufacturing tolerences, specific ones may not work.

BTW, the Peruvian bolt has an aftermarket welded on bolt. The Yugo's bolt is forged down low for use with a scope. Cheaper than welding one on.

If you plan on sporterizing, you can find prethreaded barrels at Midway (though it is a limited selection) or from ER Shaw. You can also rethread Remington 700 barrels to work on a small ring action. When sporterizing, you need to turn the counter bore ring on the front of the receiver off. That slightly shortens the external length of the receiver and might leave a slight gap in the stock inletting. But that can be filled with bedding compound.

The biggest hassle with sporterizing a Truk (and Peruvian) is getting rid of the unsightly extra tall charger clip hump. But, it makes it look much better when done.

000_2435.jpg

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Hi

The information on the bolts is very interesting. I went on line looking for yugo bolts but was out of luck. If anyone has a bent bolt yugo for sale let me know as I am interested.

I went to the turk site and found it interesting. I think I need to order some books with some good pictures so I will know what I am getting myself into.

I am going to redo all the metal on the rifle in my shop and probally have it parkerized to make it look like new when I finish. I know it probally isn't worth doing with the value being so low on these but It will be fun.

Greg

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I agree with mauserman69, I think you have a 1893 that was re-arsenaled in 1937.

 

Something like this one http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=8801

 

Before you buy a bolt, find someone with a flat bottom 93 bolt that will let you try for fit.

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Thanks for the info.

Now I am confused. I measured the front ring according to Boydes but don't know if I measured it in the right place.It measured 1.410 if I remember right. The bolt holes in the stock were 7 7/8 inch's apart.

Guess it is time to take it to a smith and find out what I have.

Thanks

Greg

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If it makes you feel any better, a Mauser bent bolt will not clear a scope. It, too, will have to be forged or replaced by welding on a new handle. The bend is a reverse curve of what you actually need for scope clearance.

 

Clemson

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Hi

This is turning into fun.

I would have never thought there was so many different types of parts and work done to these but I guess with a hundred years plus of making these there was bound to be.

I am really starting to enjoy this. I needed something to keep me busy in the winter and it looks like this might keep me busy all year.

On the bent bolt I guess I will just leave it stright and use one of the rear site scope mounts and a long eye relief scope.

I am really greatfull for all the info that I have gotten here. There is really no one around here with the knowledge to help me out.

On the bolts I will have to farm them out as I have no clue what I am doing.

Thanks

Greg

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