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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Stubborn Barrel


CurtInAtl

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I am fairly limited in what I can do until my shoulder heals completely following rotator cuff surgery so I put my son who is on leave from the Army to work taking several barreled receivers apart. A large ring Spanish and the 98-22 came off with no trouble but the little 1916 that I have been working on would not budge. I don't necessarily need to remove that barrel but I thought it would make it easier to drill and tap for the scope base.

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I have a piece of 2x2 aluminum bar stock that I am going to cut into 3" pieces then clamp them in the drill press vice with a 1/8" spacer between them and the drill them to use as vice blocks.

 

I need more workbench space. It is sort of a pain having 3 tools that mount to the same spot on the bench.

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little 1916 that I have been working on would not budge. I don't necessarily need to remove that barrel but I thought it would make it easier to drill and tap for the scope base.

 

Sounds like the barrel will be reinstalled so a tension relief cut is out of the question.

 

The 16 is a small ring so start with the bolt installed and don't over-tighten your action wrench. Work the bolt as you tighten wrench. If you feel the lugs start to bind, back off just a hair. Use a cheater on wrench but leave about 8" of handle showing close to head. Preload tension on the cheater and smack the exposed handle with a 2 or 3# hammer about 6" from the wrench head. Once will usually pop em loose but sometimes 2-4 whacks are necessary.

 

If that doesn't pop it loose be patient. Stand it on muzzle and saturate circumference of barrel stub inside reciever with a penetrant such as Liquid Wrench, Rust Buster, or 50/50 mix of ATF and laquer thinner overnight. And give it another go.

 

Out of curiousity is your 16 still a 7x57 or is it a 7.62 CETME?

 

JM2c

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I have 3 of them, all 7x57.

 

The problem I am having is keeping the barrel from turning in the vice. I have heard of people wrapping solder around the barrel as a shim then putting rosin on the whole works. I might try that but I have to wait until one of my boys shows up. I am still thinking that the aluminum blocks are the answer but the oak blocks worked for the other 2.

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Wood blocks are useless for military actions. Almost never hold tight enough. The alum block are the way to go. Make sure you drill the block accurately. If they don't match 100% you will have the same problem. If you need the blocks bored let me know I can do it for you. Actually I prefer more surface contact than that and use a 4 bolt vise. Now a trick you can try is to cut some serrations in the oak block and use lead shim stock between the block and the barrel. Before that try adding rosin to the wood block and put a 6 foot cheater on the wrench you use to tighten the vise.

Don

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I think we tried to warn you about these wood blocks.

If you replace them with aluminum blocks, make the hole big enough to be able to use aluminum bushings.

I made my blocks from steel with a 1 1/2" hole, Then I make the bushings as neede from

1 1/2" aluminum stock on my lathe.

Don can chime in if I'm mistaken but, I think Brownells bushings are 1 3/8" OD. If you made you blocks with that in mind, you can easily purchase bushings of various dimensions as needed.

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First one I did with wood block, made them and clamped them in a large bench vise. funny thing is that worked better than the commercial vise that used wood blocks. Tried it once and returned it and made my own at a friends machine shop before I had a mill or lathe.

Don

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IT's off!

The wood blocks seem to work if you have the right blocks. The ones that came with the vice had grain running at an angle when you looked at the end so they split when I tried to torque them down. I went to Lowes and bought some 2x2 oak and poplar stock with the grain as close to horizontal as I could find then I cut them into 3" pieces and clamped two pieces face to face in my drill press vice and drilled a 15/16" hole in them then sanded the face of each block until I had a good 1/8" gap when I first put them around the barrel in the vice. I put some rosin on each block and torqued it down.

 

I also picked up a 3' section of 1" ID thick wall pipe.

 

It slipped just a bit the first time i tried so I cranked it the vice nuts down another half turn and then basically sat on the cheater bar and it popped.

This was made all the more fun by basically having to do everything left handed. I even had to drill the blocks on the floor because I couldn't lift the drill press onto the bench without help.

 

I also took pacrat's advice and let the liquid wrench soak in for a couple of days. The threads were visibly wet with oil once it came apart.

 

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Now that I am done with the power tools it's time for a refreshing Percocet break.

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Now that I am done with the power tools it's time for a refreshing Percocet break.

 

Be careful!! I got hooked on that stuff while going through chemo and a bone marrow/stem cell transplant. When you need 2, 3 or more to do what one used to do, time to discuss with the Dr.

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