Westcliffe01 Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Hi I bought an M24/47 a while ago for my stepson to shoot on my trips to the range. It was not a bad deal, because it came with quite a bit of more recent (late 70's and 80's) surplus ammo, but the rifle itself was not in such great shape. It looked like it had been shot quite a bit at one time, but not cleaned and the bore was corroded and had a lot of copper fouling. I spent an entire weekend trying to make an impression on the bore with various copper removers as well as powder solvents and brass and nylon brushes. That did not yield much. I ended up lapping the barrel, and while it made a huge improvement (particularly in the ability to clean the bore after shooting), the rifle was not much of a shooter and a few months later, the stepson went back to Indiana and now it sits in the safe collecting dust.. So, I am an active coyote hunter and already possess an 8x57 (Remington 700 Classic), but I don't have a 243. So recently I got to thinking about turning this weapon into something that I actually needed, and which I would not mind exposing to the harsh life of predator hunting. So I have a Boyds Classic stock on order for it, and I got the BOLD trigger also (without the safety - maybe a mistake?). My need for a 243 will without a doubt involve a scope, so I have to solve the question of optics mounting as well as the usual bolt handle issue. So to prepare for the job, I disassembled the rifle as far as I could last night (action out of stock, bolt disassembled, bottom metal out of stock). I was not able to figure out how to remove the firing pin from its assembly to the bolt hood/safety. I am guessing that it is pinned, but I can't see the pin at the moment ? So if anyone can enlighten me how that works, I would appreciate it. Regarding the bolt, it seems that there are many ways to skin that cat, but I might spend more on tools and supplies and components than just having an experienced smith do it for me. I have seen that one of the forum members makes a spoon type bolt handle, which looks pretty nice and another who appears to do the work of grafting it onto other members bolts. Would anyone like to recommend a smith in Michigan to whom I can entrust this work ? It would be even better if said smith could also handle fitting and head spacing a match barrel and mounting an optics rail. I generally go the one piece steel rail route, so that would mean a bit of machining to either the rail to clear the stripper clip port or to the receiver to remove that hump. I am guessing that if keeping receiver and bolt together, there would only be a modest amount of potential accurising needed to the receiver to true the front face and primary torque flange and possibly clean up the threads. So on the safety: It seems to be apparent that the standard safety would not clear the eyepiece of a scope. Are there a few different bolt mounted safeties available, or do I need to look into getting the trigger with side safety ? I didn't get that version from Boyds since they were out of stock, but maybe a different trigger from Midway or Brownells ? I understand that the original safety acts as a physical block to the firing pin, so how does that work with a trigger mounted safety ? Would there be any other potential tweaks needed when going to 243 ? Bolt face should be fine ? Controlled feed should mean that there is no need for a bullet guide, given the smaller diameter of the bullet itself ? Other potential issues ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr.Hess Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 I have a low profile bolt mounted safety on my Turk, and a Timney trigger with no safety. I had the action teflon coated and bedded and the gunsmith threw in the low profile one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odies dad Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Timney makes a Beuhler type safety that works very well and is easy to install. I prefer the triggers without the safety and using a safety that actually blocks the firing pin like the Beuhler. You might want to consider going with a 6mm Rem rather than the 243. Slightly better ballistics and since it is based on the 7x57 Mauser case, feeding issues are nearly eliminated. To get the firing pin apart, assuming you got it out of the bolt, find something with a hole in it that you can push the firing pin tip into to release spring pressure from the cocking piece by pushing on the bolt shroud. Once you get the pressure off, you should be able to turn the cocking piece 90 degrees and take it off the firing pin. If it is tight, open the jaws on your vise so the flat part toward the tip of the firing pin will fit and not turn. Take a crescent wrench and turn the cocking piece off with that. Hang onto the bolt shroud or you will have pieces flying all over the place. Gently release the spring pressure and remove the bolt shroud and spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westcliffe01 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 odies, thanks for the description on disassembly of the firing pin, it was a snap. There is a little corrosion on the firing pin, but not nearly as bad as what I have seen on the Sarco pictures... Do you possibly know what the specified stick out of the firing pin should be in the forward position ? Mine is 0.070", which subjectively looks like a lot ? Also thanks for the tip on the Timney safety, it looks like Brownells has them for $38 ? Sound about right ? Brownells Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odies dad Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Midway has the safeties a little cheaper IIRC. Not sure about protrusion, but I think it is supposed to be around .055 or so. Someone else will likely chime in on that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacrat Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 odies, thanks for the description on disassembly of the firing pin, it was a snap. There is a little corrosion on the firing pin, but not nearly as bad as what I have seen on the Sarco pictures... Do you possibly know what the specified stick out of the firing pin should be in the forward position ? Mine is 0.070", which subjectively looks like a lot ? Also thanks for the tip on the Timney safety, it looks like Brownells has them for $38 ? Sound about right ? Brownells Yes, yours is excessive and may puncture primers. Which is a Not Good Thing. .055" to .065".........I try to split the diff. with .060 JM2c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westcliffe01 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 The Boyds stock and Bold trigger came in today, a day ahead of schedule. By comparison, my last order to Wideners for reloading supplies placed a week ago has not even been processed... I have been having such a hassle finding 223 75gr superformance match ammo locally that I bought 8lb of the superformance powder and a bunch of the 75gr match bullets so that I can load my own. The Bold trigger installed in a snap and the combo dropped right into the Boyds classic stock. Only 2 issues are that the rear sight base fouls on the inletting (not really a problem, since the barrel will go) and the rear action screw seems to be about 1/16th too long and fouls on the bolt when fully tightened. I am going to wait until the new barrel is installed or the old is removed before I do anything to the action screw, since the action is tilted backwards a little due to the rear sight fouling. If there is anyone who wants the original Yugo 24/47 stock with all hardware (both bands, spring clips, front sight hood, stock trigger) just send me a PM. Pickup preferred, face to face. Free under those circumstances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odies dad Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Make sure you use the ferrule in the rear stock bolt hole. That may be why the screw was too long. You will need to remove the one from the military stock or replace it with a 1/4" tubing cut to the proper length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Exactly, and I would pull theat barrel while you are waiting for the knew one. That way you can finalize the inletting in the receiver area. You need to make sure it is sitting in the stock flat no rocking on the front pillar. There should be a gap and the mag box shouldn't contact the receiver. By the way I'm in you area if you need help with that bolt. I'm a few miles from metro airport. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westcliffe01 Posted April 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 Don, I tried to contact you through your profile, don't know if it worked. I got a lead time from ER Shaw this morning - 16-20 weeks --- Yeoww.. I may do this a different way and just fit a replacement 8mm barrel on this action with some aftermarket sights. I have one of the "in the white" barrels on the way from Wideners for $55. I would still be interested in the bolt job with you, and fitting one of the low profile safeties. And all the work to remove, refit and chamber the replacement of course.. Please send me a PM regarding how to get this going. I think I will go with a Savage Edge / Axis in stainless in 243 Win. I can try it as is to see how it shoots, and then look at a drop in barrel from several of the makers out there if it is not good enough. Amazing that that rifle in stainless is just over $300. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff H Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 .........I got a lead time from ER Shaw this morning - 16-20 weeks --- Yeoww......... I have not been to Midway's site in quite a while but I got several Adams & Bennett barrels for around $70 each about ten years ago. The 6.5x55 shoots beyond what I could ever have inagined - first two three shot groups were all touching. My Dad ended up with the .338-06 I got and his first group was three into an inch. I don't know if they were all like that or what they cost these days but either of those would have been a bargain at twice what I paid. The 7x57 is still in the safe and the .35 Whelen went to a friend who left it a the 'smiths' two years ago and still hasn't seen it. They don't gleam inside like some but the two we have shot were impressive. Nothing wrong with Douglas, Shaw or McGowen either. I just grabbed a bunch of cheap barrels as they went on sale. Nice stock too. I have used several Boyd's laminates but I trimmed a lot of wood off of them first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westcliffe01 Posted April 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 I have a Rem 700 "Classic" in 8mm Mauser, hence I thought I would try something different. But with the cost and lead times, unfortunately it is going to be a lot simpler / more cost effective doing a savage drop in barrel (if needed). I should get the Wideners "new" Yugo barrel this week, and I think particularly if I have a recessed target crown put on it (the factory crowns are easily damaged) it should shoot better than the worn out and pitted barrel I have now. Sad to say that this was entirely the fault of the precious owner, for shooting corrosive ammo and never cleaning the gun. The outside is actually not in bad shape, just the bore that is a mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemson Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 These honestly shoot better than a $93 barrel should. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/150800/adams-and-bennett-barrel-blank-243-caliber-6mm-centerfire-f34-contour-1-in-10-twist-26-chrome-moly-in-the-white Threading, fitting, and chambering to a safety breeched action would cost around $250. Clemson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Don, I tried to contact you through your profile, don't know if it worked. I got a lead time from ER Shaw this morning - 16-20 weeks --- Yeoww.. I may do this a different way and just fit a replacement 8mm barrel on this action with some aftermarket sights. I have one of the "in the white" barrels on the way from Wideners for $55. I would still be interested in the bolt job with you, and fitting one of the low profile safeties. And all the work to remove, refit and chamber the replacement of course.. Please send me a PM regarding how to get this going. I think I will go with a Savage Edge / Axis in stainless in 243 Win. I can try it as is to see how it shoots, and then look at a drop in barrel from several of the makers out there if it is not good enough. Amazing that that rifle in stainless is just over $300. No I didn't get anything, go to my profile and just click on my email address. Easier that way. You need to remember though that the yugo is safety breeched and standard 98 barrels don't work as is. They need to have the breech ring and extractor cuts made. Or you need to swap the bolt out with an intermediate oberndorf bolt that has the case guide protrutions. Depends on the barrel and if your bolt matches which way is cheaper/better. Anyway a new rifle will always be cheaper than sporterizing a military mauser. Heck there is a brand new never shot CD mauser in 7 rem mag done at cabelas right now for under $350. I almost bought it yesterday just to part out. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westcliffe01 Posted April 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Don, second message on its way through the email link on your profile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailormilan2 Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 The Yugos are in intermediate action. The safety breeching only matters if one is using a safety breeched barrel on a receiver with a bolt set up for a nonsaftey breeched barrel. One cannot use a standard bolt (with the feed guide projections) with a safety breeched barrel. However, one can rebarrel with a standard style barrel and a safety breeched bolt and that will work just fine. Mauser bolt faces. Safety breeched bolt is on the right, standard bolt is on the left. I've had very good luck with the Adams and Bennett barrels. With a simple conversion to a 243Win as you mentioned, you should not have any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westcliffe01 Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 From the Wideners website: Yugo M48 Barrel "BBLM48 Brand New Yugo M48 barrel $55.00 each We just acquired a limited number of BRAND NEW, NEVER USED OR INSTALLED, M48 Yugo Mauser barrels. These barrels are straight from the Zastava factory and have never been used. They are new in the heavy cosmoline and wrapper. They are not blued or parkerized. It is the last of them so take advantage now. They DO NOT come with sights and these are not tear downs or parts. They are authentic, brand new M48 replacement barrels. The barrel length is 22'. " So theoretically, other than the extractor cut and possible chamber depth adjustment, (and bluing) these should be good to go ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 The Zavasta barrels may very well have the extractor cut. There was talk on here before about the manufacturers pre-cutting the slot and "torqing" it into position, sometimes damaging things in the process. Look, a standard 98 barrel will fit fine without any further alteration; there is nothing unsafe or undesirable about it. I wouldn't get too caught-up with having a specific M48 setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westcliffe01 Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I thought that the M24/47's if they had the barrel replaced at the arsenal, would have been fitted with these exact barrels. I have one on order and have been waiting a couple of weeks already and not even a shipping notification yet. God help us after the election... Bought a CZ 512 in 22WMR from Buds and waited nearly a month before I saw it. The supply side of things is under a lot of pressure from panicky buyers right now.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westcliffe01 Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 I only have 2 things against those Midway 243 barrels: 1 being that they are not stainless and 2 being that they have the old 1:10 twist and thus are not fit for the high BC bullets obtainable today. The Savage is a 1:9.25 and the drop in savage barrels are available in 1:8. Of course the lapped 1:8 match barrels cost about as much as the basic rifle, but still cheaper than going the Mauser route which requires a bunch of smithing in addition to the barrel itself. I think I will re-crown the M48 barrel and re-work the bolt as explained here Swedish method This method may not be so pleasing to look at but will fit within a reasonable budget, given I am keeping everything 8mm. These honestly shoot better than a $93 barrel should. http://www.midwayusa...ly-in-the-white Threading, fitting, and chambering to a safety breeched action would cost around $250. Clemson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzRednek Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 I think I will go with a Savage Edge / Axis in stainless in 243 Win. I can try it as is to see how it shoots, and then look at a drop in barrel from several of the makers out there if it is not good enough. Amazing that that rifle in stainless is just over $300. Don't mean to change the gist of the thread. I'll move my post on the Savage Axis to the correct catagory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westcliffe01 Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Well, after what felt like an eternity, the barrel from Wideners ($55 new M48 Yugoslavian 8x57 barrel) was dropped off by UPS today. I soaked it in some hot soapy water to soften the preservative and get the paper remnants off it. Then scrubbed out the bore with a nylon brush and some straight liquid laundry detergent. Rinsed it in more hot water and worked the grease out the threads. Then ran some patches through the barrel with Hoppes #9 and followed with some dry patches. So I have the following observations: 1) The outside of the barrel looks like it was chrome plated, although there are small patches where there appears to be no plating ? 2) The muzzle is pretty dinged up. The factory must ship them in racks in a wooden crate and it looks like they got handled quite a lot in the last 30-50 years... 3) The bore is shiny as heck. Looks brighter than the bore that came on my Remington 700 classic. Are the bores/chambers on these chrome plated ? 4) There was a nice ring about 1/2" behind the muzzle where it had been supported in a steady rest, I am guessing while the muzzle was crowned ? 5) There is no extractor relief cut. So there are a few things to do Get the old barrel off Turn on the new barrel and see how the headspace is looking (will need a go gauge at least) If needed, fix the head space by shaving the shoulder (s). Hope it does not come up short... Mark and cut the extractor clearance (will look at old barrel to see how this was done) Cut a recessed crown Re-profile the barrel to give it a continuous taper or a double taper removing the series of steps (aesthetics) prep and fit a one piece steel optics rail (Warne usually) Parkerize the barrel and action and miscellaneous bottom metal (3rd party vendor) It looks like I may have identified a type 7 FFL in Brooklyn that I can work with on anything that I can't handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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