odies dad Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 As promised, I have put together a bit of a tutorial on how to build a Mauser sporter. The action started as a broken stock missing parts barreled VZ24 receiver from IIRC Centerfire systems when they had them really cheap a few years back. The barrel looked like a shotgun bore. After piecing together other components, this is the action I started with. I had a different barrel and stock on this receiver before, but decided to rebuild it. You can see some of the previous modifications. I like to checker the bolt release. I had 3 scope holes D&T’d. I opted for Weaver bases on this build so I drilled and tapped another hole. This is the Wheeler jig set up. This shows how the bushings hold the tap true. There is a different bushing for drilling the hole that works much the same. The jig will locate the holes in the proper spot for standard bases. I got an Adams and Bennett F34 280 short chambered barrel from Midway. I used my lathe to polish it up. If you don’t mind more of a satin finish, you can use them as is. Next I blued the barrel. I found that spinning it on the lathe helps some with streaking. I just use cold bluing for this. I have tried several types, but I have had the best luck with the Birchwood Casey paste. Here is what it looks like screwed onto the receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odies dad Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 I installed a Timney trigger and a Dayton Traiser Mark II safety. Pardon the terrible picture. The safety needs to have a small slit cut into the bolt shroud. Easy work with a Dremmel. I ordered a Boyds Prairie Hunter walnut stock and opted for the laser cut checkering. This is their #2 pattern. I really like how the stock looks. The action fit great . I had to notch out for the bolt handle. As I was fitting the bolt handle, I decided that the handle I had on it looked a little short, so I swapped it with another one I had. Both rifles look better this way. Next comes setting the headspace. This is usually the scariest part. I pulled everything apart again except the barrel and mounted it in my action wrench to hold it barrel down. I stripped the bolt and inserted the GO gauge to see what I was starting with. This is how far the bolt would close. After reaming. To set the head space, turn the reamer a few times, flush and swab out the chamber, inspect with a bore light and retry the GO gauge. Repeat adnauseum until the bolt just closes on the go gauge. Next try it with the NO GO gauge Perfect. The bolt will not close on the NO GO gauge. If it does, you will need to set the barrel back a little until it does not close. It doesn’t take much to go from not enough to too much. Just do a couple turns when you get close to the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odies dad Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Next you put all the pieces back together. I added an Intensity 4-12 scope. I have not had a chance to shoot it yet. I will post a range report later. Thanks to Rod (Tanglewood) for the reamer and for the bolt work. He does a great job. There were too many pictures to post this all in one shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odies dad Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Something else to remember is to put the trigger back in before you bolt the stock on or you will have to tear it apart again. You'd think I would remember to do that after all the times I have had to redo them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 Great little write up. One question though, if you own a lathe why chamber by hand? Actually why not save a few and just get a blank? Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FC Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 Very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odies dad Posted May 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 I don't really trust my machining skills. I can get an A&B barrel that is short chambered and pre threaded for about the same as a blank, and I have never done a full chamber on a lathe. One of these days I will get brave and try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayak Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 What a beauty! I was intrigued by the cold bluing while on the lathe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 I don't really trust my machining skills. I can get an A&B barrel that is short chambered and pre threaded for about the same as a blank, and I have never done a full chamber on a lathe. One of these days I will get brave and try it. Makes sense. I would start getting your barrels threaded and long chambered. Set the head space in the lathe without the cost of a reamer. You used to be able to get them from shaw, douglas, LW and a few others. I think you will like the results better and they are usually the same price long or short chambered. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odies dad Posted May 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 Range report Got a chance to get some fodder loaded and shot today. I am using 139gr Hornaday BTSP over 56.9gr of IMR 4831. Seemed to shoot very well at 50 yards. Had holes touching once I got it sighted in. Had a little trouble feeding. I relieved a bit off the lower tip of the extractor and now it feeds fine. I loaded up another 20 rounds tonight for some future shooting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Good looking rifle. I'd like to try one of those stocks if I ever finish the half dozen project I've got going now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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