brian923 Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 hey guys, i finally got a lathe installed in my fathers garage and cant wait to start to relearn how to use it. (took shop in school, get the principles) anyways, my brother in law is an engineer/ machinest, but dosent know much about firearm related machining, or firearms (which i know) so, i was talking to him about starting this mauser project, and he came back at me with a couple questions that i dont know, hence this post... so, 1. is it possible to true the front of the action off the inner c ring in a vertical mill? he explained setting it up in the mill and centering/leveling the c ring, and just taking off the fist couple .001" of an inch just to get the inner c ring and the face parallel. 2nd question is.. kinda long, so here i go.. he says that repeatedly inserting and extracting a reamer into the same hole over and over will make the whole over sized, and wondered why we do this for chambering rifle barrels. i wanted to ask you guys since i did not have the proper knowledge to answer his question. thanks for all the help guys, brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 hey guys, i finally got a lathe installed in my fathers garage and cant wait to start to relearn how to use it. (took shop in school, get the principles) anyways, my brother in law is an engineer/ machinest, but dosent know much about firearm related machining, or firearms (which i know) so, i was talking to him about starting this mauser project, and he came back at me with a couple questions that i dont know, hence this post... so, 1. is it possible to true the front of the action off the inner c ring in a vertical mill? he explained setting it up in the mill and centering/leveling the c ring, and just taking off the fist couple .001" of an inch just to get the inner c ring and the face parallel. 2nd question is.. kinda long, so here i go.. he says that repeatedly inserting and extracting a reamer into the same hole over and over will make the whole over sized, and wondered why we do this for chambering rifle barrels. i wanted to ask you guys since i did not have the proper knowledge to answer his question. thanks for all the help guys, brian. Well I'm feeling frisky. I haven't done that much machining yet myself but I think that I'll risk the flaming and take a stab at giving you some answers. 1.You would want to 'true' to the axis of the threads. The C ring may not be 'true' to the rest of the action. Presumably the barrel shoulder should be 'true' or 'square' to the axis of its threads so therefore you would want the action to be 'true' or 'square' to its threads too. 2. virtually all cartridges and therefore reamers have a taper to them be it in the body and shoulder or at least the shoulder. The headspace gauge tells you when those tapers are within limits. I hope my answers satisfy the BIL. Tinker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 You're talking about "blue-printing" the action. Is the C-ring out of alignment with the rest of the action? Unless you've actually checked, any discussion is trivial. Yes, it can be trued on a mill with a special fixture. When we're taking 0.001 or less, why would you want to use a mill (or a lathe)? Lapping might be a simpler route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian923 Posted November 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 you are right. i think i am getting ahead of myself. i think it would be best to figure out what the dimensions are first and the use that to decide weather i need to fit the barrel to the reciever face, or inner c-ring. thanks guys. ill keep you posted... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 98 Mausers are generally fitted to the inner torque ring. Earlier Mausers are fitted to the receiver face. Arms manufacturers are USUALLY quite good about accurately keeping things "true" as part of the manufacturing process. My educated guess is that the bolt raceway, inner torque ring, receiver face, and receiver threads should have all been cut from the same setup/fixturing. "Should" is a big word, and sometimes things don't work the way they ought to.... I'd be mostly concerned that the locking logs are both engaging their recesses. I'd also be concerned about a good muzzle crown and a clean-cut, concentric chamber. A quality barrel is critical. Everything else is overkill for most hunting rifles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian923 Posted November 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 good to hear. the project is at my fathers house right now, so ill have to bring it back home to do my bolt lug and bolt face work with the valve grinding. id like to make it as accurate as possible, and i think i should be able to make it a sub m.o.a rifle if i do my part... the action i am using is a vz-24 action, (believe it to be from 1937) so it should be good to go. i have a new brux barrel blank in 6.5 that i am going to make into a 6.5x55 swede. it should, in essence, be a good shooting rifle once i get done with it. i have a fajen stock to put it in and id like to bed the action as well, an aftermarket timmney trigger with safety, and it has already been d&t'ed for some leoupold scope bases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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