z1r

[MorgansBoss]

I was cleaning up a floor plate this afternoon and it ocurred to me that your "bench-stone polishing method" would be welcomed by the newbys visiting the site... and some old hands as well. How about it Beau? Its the sort of stuff that makes this place great!

[flaco]

MorgansBoss-

 

Z's stoning instructions can be found at Mauser Central.

 

I'm pretty certain the instructions can be found at another URL, without the advertisements, but Mauser Central might be an informative site to have on your Bookmarks list.

 

flaco

[flaco]

I'll also add that... although z1r is close to perfect--but not quite--he neglected to mention the fact that he uses ATF as a lubricant on the stones.

 

flaco

[MorgansBoss]

Yeah, I know it's there but I just thought it'd be nice to have here - since he's such a prominent member - and we're trying to re-build. Its such an ingenious idea that I'm sure many never considered. I know I for one didn't until he mentioned it once and I used to sell Norton abrasives! Its one of those "tricks" that everyone in this hobby should know about. The link is all that's necessary I guess... and of course now we have it! Thanks flaco.

[flaco]

Okay, this may be a © violation. If so, or if it makes Tony or Z or the guys at Mauser Central uncomfortable, please delete this post.

 

 

For rings that I just want to clean up or that haven't

been scrubbed I use a barrel stub that I clamp in a vice. Then I use

one of those combination stones (Crystalon on one side/ India on the

other) and use the coarse side to remove pits etc. You could use this

method to remove remainder of your crest. Get the wide stone.

Then, In a side to side motion, allowing the stone

to ride flat on the ring rock it back and forth in a hack sawing motion.

Rotate the receiver a little every few minutes to evenly remove material.

Don't concentrate on one area or you'll end up with a flat spot. Use

the rough side until the crest is gone then clean off everything to

remove the coarse grit and use the other side to get a nice finish.

You must be aware of the serial #. It is possible to remove it if you

remove too much metal.

 

 

Three VZ actions. The one on the bottom had a partial crest that has

been removed. The one in the middle will soon look like the one on the

bottom. The one on the Top has only had the charging hump partially

removed in the Jig.

 

 

This pic shows the Jig I use for milling. I make my passes with and

endmill from front to rear or rear to front along the ring. I make a

pass (.001) and then rotate the receiver a smidgen. I'll repeat the

process again once the entire ring has been covered. I'll do this until

all remnants of the old crest are gone. this usually takes less than

.005. An indexing table or rotary table would be easier but I

don't have one. This will leave a series of very small longitudinal

flats that the stones will eliminate later. As you can see I also use

it to polish in. A barrel stub held in a vice is also good for holding

your work because it allows you to get to the top of the left rail easily.

 

 

This pic shows how I hold the stone for polishing. I finish off with

stones (Crystalon on one side/ India on the other) to keep a nice flat

appearance to the front ring . Using only the weight of the stone I

make a side to side seesawing/hack sawing motion. Keep the stone flat

on the ring. The stone is a bit

wider than the ring. Don't let the stone rock or cant near the edges

of the ring or they'll round off and you'll end up with low spots. That's

the Turk Receiver in the Jig.

 

 

You'll notice the charger hump has been removed. I used only a file

on this one. Why? Just to show it can be done. It will get the stone

treatment and look like the VZ. It only takes longer. It does make you

appreciate the mill though, that's for sure.

 

 

This pic shows a Turk that I used only the stone on. It has removed

most of the sizable pits. I could remove all the pitting but doing so

would remove one of the digits from the serial #. One number was stamped

shallower than the rest. I can still safely remove most of these pits

while still keeping the ring concentric and keeping the law happy. There

were a lot of scratches on the top of the ring all of which are gone

now by simply using the Stone.

 

 

This pic shows the left side of a VZ24 receiver. You'll note that there are

no more markings left. These were polished out using the stone. That's

lint on the left side near the front ring not scratches. Use the same

principal as used on the front ring. Follow the contour of the side.

It took about twenty minutes to clean up with a medium stone.

 

None of these receivers have yet to see the fine stone. They have only

gotten the coarse treatment so far so they will look much nicer when

I hit em with the fine stone.

[z1r]

Let me just add that since I wrote that piece, norton has come out with a single grit 8"x2"x1" stone. I highly recommend these. I have one in fine, medium & coarse. I still buy the cheapie stones that you can get at harbor freight or the Norton crystalon stone as they remove material fast but wear quickly. I use(d) these for when I hadn't surface ground the receiver. Like Flaco pointed out, I use ATF for lubrication. It's cheap and works very well.

 

Get an assortment of EDM stones for polishing various other surfaces. I use stone on my bolts to to ensure they are straight. Buffers can/will lead to a wavy surface that is not conducive to smooth operation.

 

Anyone that has handled one of my Mausers comments on how buttery the action is. That is why I go through the trouble.

[donmarkey]

Anyone that has handled one of my Mausers comments on how buttery the action is. That is why I go through the trouble

Speaking of buttery actions, how do you normally treat the insides of the action?

Don

[z1r]

Glue a soft stone to a piece of aluminum. The stone quickly conforms to the shape of the insides and viola, smoooooooth!