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mr fixit

Diy Custom Grip Cap- Lots Of Pics

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I asked a while back, on the other forum I think, about using Accuraglass or something similar to "pour" a grip cap. No one had seemed to have done it, but I pressed on.

 

On my Yugo Mauser project for my son, I wanted to make a personalized grip cap with his initials. So, I did.

 

First, instead of using Accuraglass, I bought some clear polyester casting resin from a hobby shop (Michals I think). It is a two part resin which only takes a few drops of hardener, and can use many color dyes. I bought some black dye, and it looks very much like the dye in the accuraglass pack.

PeePawscamera009.jpg

 

After I had shaped the grip area close to how I wanted it, I cut off the excess length flat, and angled the way I wanted. Then I put it in a vise and used a level to get the grip cap area perfectly flat. Then using some modeling clay, I made a dam around the area to hold the liquid polyester.

PeePawscamera001.jpg

 

I marked the area for the initials, and then I used a dremel and a cutting burr to make some undercuts in the wood for a mechanical lock on the cap.

PeePawscamera004.jpg

 

Next, I placed the initials on the grip in position.

PeePawscamera005.jpg

 

The initials were also bought from the hobby shop. They are some type of metal, likely a zinc type pot metal. They are made to be used on a leather type thong for a necklace and are about 1/8" thick or so. The have a slot in the back to slip the thong through which made them perfect for a mechanical lock in the grip cap.

 

The resin was mixed and colored per instructions in an old measuring cup and then poured into the dam over the initials. I poured it to just over the level of the initials so it could be sanded down flush at the same time. (pay no attention to the black cap next to the measuring cup, it was for testing)

PeePawscamera010.jpg

PeePawscamera012.jpg

 

The only issue I ran into was that it took forever to 'dry' or cure. It was in my shop which is not heated or cooled. After 2 days it was solid, but tacky to touch. I re-read the instructions and noticed it said cure time varied with humidity. I took it in the house and it was solid and tack free overnight.

 

After curing, I removed the dam which showed the over sized rough side. I used a file to rough finish it close to size of the grip, then progressively finer sand paper to keep the grip size and angle right. The top I used a block sander to sand the entire surface at once. Just a bit of sanding uncovered the initials and brought the surface smooth.

 

And finally, a finished photo.

 

100_1993.jpg

100_1996.jpg

 

What do you folks think?

 

Mr Fixit

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It looks very good!

 

I do have a ?

 

It appears that the gold finish was removed from the "JTC" and we are now looking at the zinc

underneath. To prevent tarnish of the zinc will you A. coat the grip cap separately with it's own coat of

clear epoxy ( or something else ) or B. will you coat the grip cap with the same polyurethane, tongue oil, etc

that you finish the rest of the stock with?

 

 

BTW. I have used epoxy to make several gunstock repairs and have just coated it just the same as the wood.

 

Tinker

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I have to say this, that is pretty darn cool! That was a good idea to try and boy does it look nice! A nice fine film of poly as Tinker said should keep from tarnishing. I found a shed while coon hunting Monday night and it will be my next grip cap. It will be small, as everyone knows that WV deer arn't much! Good job, bet your son loves it.

Brenden

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It looks very good!

 

I do have a ?

 

It appears that the gold finish was removed from the "JTC" and we are now looking at the zinc

underneath. To prevent tarnish of the zinc will you A. coat the grip cap separately with it's own coat of

clear epoxy ( or something else ) or B. will you coat the grip cap with the same polyurethane, tongue oil, etc

that you finish the rest of the stock with?

 

 

BTW. I have used epoxy to make several gunstock repairs and have just coated it just the same as the wood.

 

Tinker

 

The photo makes it look gold, but it must be a trick of light, they were actually silver to start with. One thing I did was take some letters that I wouldn't need and sand on them to see what was underneath before I started. I found that the letters had a silver finish over silver metal. The origianl finish was a rough texture, and sanding made it smooth. I think it looks better the way it is. :D

 

As far as finish, I used True Oil on the stock, and just coated the grip the same for 2 coats. It seems to cover fine. I had considered useing a thin superglue to cover it, that's what I use on some pens I make. So far, True Oil looks good to go.

 

Mr Fixit

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That is a great alternative to a plastic screw in type - much nicer. And between colors, inlays...etc, the possibilities are endless. Very nice work.

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Way to think outside the box. Looks good and it opens up possibilities. one things for sure. you don't have to worry about the cap moving on you.

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