Ron J Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 I want to try out a NECG banded ramp front sight. They say they can be stretched by forcing onto the barrel. This leaves me wondering 2 things. Just how much will they stretch - or how close should the barrel diameter be seeing as how it is tapered and the band ID isn't? Also, once this is done, wouldn't there be no clearance for solder or epoxy? These are a little pricy for experiments!!! Thanks, Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 They have a set screw under the insert. I have stretched one about 1/2" of barrel length. The last one I did I had to bore out the inside to fit. It was just in between sizes. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted July 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Thanks. Wow, 1/2 the length of the barrel. How were you moving it? A sleeve? The set screw under the insert is for a drilled and tapped barrel, correct? So no solder or epoxy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 Betcha he meant 1/2" of travel along the lenth of the barrel. The daring amateur could heat it up cherry red and drive it where he wanted it. But those damn things are so expensive that it almost takes the fun out of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted July 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 Yeah Doble, I read it wrong. Man, sometimes I'm just brain dead. Maybe guns aren't the best hobbie for me!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 sometimes I'm just brain dead It's only sometimes for you? What's your secret? My last almost fatal brain fart was single feeding a heavily-modified (by ham-fisted me) 1911 that wasn't feeding from the magazine. Yes, I dropped one in the chamber, just happened to point it down range, and yes, dropped the slide. KApow! Fortunately for me it somehow went into battery before it touched off. The firing pin had wedged under a loose firing pin stop and was sticking out, which explains why it wouldn't feed from the magazine - Browning was smart, unlike me. I'm pushing 50 and still learning that if it isn't working right STOP and frickin' figure it out. There's a reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoedoh Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 I'm pushing 50 and still learning that if it isn't working right STOP and frickin' figure it out. There's a reason. Nah, come on Ken, just get a bigger hammer. That's what the rest of us rifle cranks do. That's we build rifles out of steel - they're hard to break and if you do you can weld'em back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 just get a bigger hammer And/or a bigger wrench. Did I tell you guys about the time I took a barrel off a Winchester 94 with the action closed? We should probably start another thread about blunders to avoid. Hey walnut - do you have a shot-out barrel that you can use as a mandrel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyjim Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 i've heard that if you peen it with a small hammer while its on the barrel it will expand it enough to slide it farther down. that wouldn't work it it was already to small to fit over the barrel. then file & sand any marks out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted July 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 DT, nothing the right size, but a mandrel could be made on the lathe. I should have explained this better up front. The barrel is a new Shilen .416 cal. We turned it down a little. Anyway, we are trying to figure out which one to buy and how to install. I'm thinking once it starts on it has to be pushed up (stretched) far enough so there's no gap by the small end of the barrel. Wow - thank God on that 1911. One time we were shooting Marlin levers. My brother was shooting a .44 mag - me a .30-30. His gun went off but sounded odd. We let it sit for a while then tried to open the lever. It opened hard. The action was full of powder but the bullet was out of the case. The primer had fired, but the powder didn't burn. We shook it out and started to chamber another. It wouldn't go in. The bullet was in the start of the rifling and another wouldn't fit. I don't know why, other than the sound, that we thought the bullet had left and didn't look. Good thing it wasn't an inch down the barrel. Factory ammunition, by the way. Ya know, that blunder post is a good idea. I'm sure even the most experienced will learn something new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertashooter Posted July 18, 2009 Report Share Posted July 18, 2009 i've heard that if you peen it with a small hammer while its on the barrel it will expand it enough to slide it farther down. that wouldn't work it it was already to small to fit over the barrel. then file & sand any marks out This is the way I fit them. Use a old barrel as a mandrel and peen the band with a smooth face hammer. No need to heat it . Just do it cold.Do not be scared to hit it. This will displace steel and stretch the band. You can go expand to the next NECG size easily. You will need to polish out the hammer marks If I had a sight kicking around that needed to expand a lot I would turn a aluminum bar to match the barrel taper and perhaps 10 thou smaller than where you want the band to sit. Split the band on the bottom and clamp to the aluminum bar and weld. Clean up the weld and it as above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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