724wd Posted January 15, 2008 Report Share Posted January 15, 2008 ok, i know it's not exactly "good" to do, sideloading the chuck, but if a guy were doing, say 6 or 7 mausers (removing the charger hump) is a drill press ok for this? the press is a big old craftsman with a lot of grunt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted January 15, 2008 Report Share Posted January 15, 2008 It's been done. Another problem to over come is how to control the z axis or downward stroke. If all you want to do it charger humps, I'd just use a bench grinder and file. -Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert01 Posted January 15, 2008 Report Share Posted January 15, 2008 check out the FEB edition of Shooting times there is a article in the back about removein the charging hump with a drill press and facing stones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plumbum Posted January 15, 2008 Report Share Posted January 15, 2008 it's not about grunt, it's about lateral movement of the quill, or lack thereof. mills are rigid in that the chucks don't move side-to-side. drill presses are less so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted January 15, 2008 Report Share Posted January 15, 2008 A drill press isn't equiped with bearings designed for sideways forces. that said, i did do a lot of "milling" making motor cycle parts with just a drill press. personally, I'd d&t for a one piece base. I see alot of actions come through here that have had the bridge altered freehand. It shows! If you do do it freehand, just go slow and realize it will take time. Patience grasshopper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
724wd Posted January 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2008 well mike, since it's really only one or two of these actions that i plan on 2 piece bases, perhaps I'll just have you do it when i send them to you to get their tubes screwed on! =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downwindtracker2 Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 I kept hearing about lateral thrust on the bearings,so I looked at the bearing # on my Jet 17",they are 6200 series,a deep race ball,much better with lateral than thrust.My quill isn't too bad for slop.On the old US made drill presses you could lock it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemson Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 Bearings notwithstanding, the chuck is held onto the quill by only the taper between the two. Side force can loosen the chuck on the spindle. At operating speed, the best you can hope for is gouges in the receiver that you are milling. Worse than that would be the shrapnel. Clemson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corelock Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 Somewhere I ran across a pic of a simple looking "machine" built just to remove humps. It had a pair of centers and a sliding table with screw feed mounted near a bench grinder. If I were to make up one I would set it up to be used on my 1x42 sander. Maybe not the greatest but to me better than free handing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbamauser Posted February 7, 2008 Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 Check out this drill press to mill conversion, This site has some sporterizing info but mostly firearms machined from scratch. the home shop section has some great info. http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ik...8;t=13378;st=20 Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downwindtracker2 Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 Clemson ,you are right .MT #2 to JT#3 on mine. When the stub been on for a while ,I have had to make wedges to drive them off. I measured the run-out with my well used Rohm chuck,it was.010",I imagine most as bad or worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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