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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Grip Cap


montea6b

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Nice job!

 

But, a bit of what i hope is taken as constructive criticism: If you leave that cap where it is, by the time you remove all the material around it, it will be protruding from the stock a good amount. At least based off what I think I see in the pics. Now, if that is the look you are after, ok. If not, and you prefer the cap closer to the bottom of the stock, then you might try moving the cap back. I hope that makes sense.

 

Anyway, so far the work looks really good. Are you going to checker the inlaid part?

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Monte,

 

Just so you know what I'm talking about:

 

Here is what I envison the cap will look like based on what I think I see in the pics, and bear in mind, I could be wrong: IPB Image

 

See how the cap extends well past the toeline?

 

Here is an example of what I prefer, a cap that nearly touches the toeline:

 

IPB Image

 

Remember, this is a matter of personal preference. I like the second pic. If you like the look of the first then please forgive me for piping up.

 

Anyway, hope those help some.

 

Are you planning on checkering like this? IPB Image

 

 

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Hello, not trying to hijack post, Z1R,,,,,where did you get the stock you have in the first picture?

thats got to be the best rough turn I've seen!

 

Thanks

 

YT,

 

None of those are my stocks, just some pics I collected along the way for inspiration and reference. the gent that did the stock you are asking about was Todd getzen. He may have posted here long ago. The pattern is from Great American Gunstocks. It is their 'Griffin and Howe open sight classic'.

 

Did not mean to mislead anyone ito thinking these were mine, sorry. I would have credited the owners had I remembered who they were.

 

 

 

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Good point Z, and after reading your comment I went back and looked at it again. I'm happy with the placement as is. I selected the position primarily based on the amount of sweep I wanted in the grip area. It's already a pretty open grip, which I like, but any further back would have exagerated the sweep a bit too much.

 

Keep in mind that the cap is fairly thick and is only inlet about half depth. If you look at the center part you can see that there is a good 1/8" plus to go just to make it flush, and I will go a little further to allow for sanding the wood down. At full depth it will be much closer, and if it's still too far I can just go a little deeper. I too don't like the cap to stick out too far at the back end. About the radius of a rat tail file should be just right.

 

"Are you planning on checkering like this?"

 

Yes.

 

EXACTLY like that! (If only I can approach that level of expertise!) But I'll try my best...

 

I'd actually considered trying something creative and different like carving or inlaying an Eagle Globe and Anchor, or some other similar personal icon, but feared that I might end up with a tacky look. I think a tasteful classic approach just like what you pictured will look best.

 

P.S. I can't really reposition it anyhow because I already drilled the screw holes!

 

On another note, I know that somewhere in my AGI video it shows how to line up the screw slots like in Z's picture, but I can't remember how and don't feel like wading back through hours of video. Anybody have a quick answer?

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Monte,

 

Please know that I am sitting on the sidelines cheering this project on!! I aspire to install a skeletonized grip cap and butt plate later this year. I'm re-reading Wesbrooks book now refreshing myself on the process.

 

Please, continue to share with pictures as your project unfolds. It's really nice to see this level of work here. I'm sure that if it turns out as other of your projects it will be very nicely done.

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On another note, I know that somewhere in my AGI video it shows how to line up the screw slots like in Z's picture, but I can't remember how and don't feel like wading back through hours of video. Anybody have a quick answer?

 

There might be a better way, but I always just waxed the screws and turned them in and back out while applying a downward force. Each time the screw will go in a little farther.

-Don

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Well, on regular oval headed screws you simply apply valve lapping compound and spin the screw a bit to remove some matterial. You can do this with the cap or with a scrap of metal that is countersunk. Do this until the screw lines up. Then dress the oval head flat. I've seen floks just spin the screws in abrassive paper too.

 

Some screws like those in the cap pictured come with long heads so they can be dressed down flush with the grip cap. often, you will get the oval headed screw slots lined up but the head of teh screw may be slightly below the surface of the cap if you aren't careful.

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