mad_jack

Wow ( Z ) maby the compairason between cutting off the threads and rethreading a remington barrel to fit a mauser action, and the thickness of a drilling barrel was taken wrong? Yes barrels on a drilling are thin, but a remington barrel would still still be quite a bit thicker. In the first post of the thread KYLE said nothing about a magnum cal. Most drillings are in eurapien cal's. and I don't think 9.3x74 is any punk. But Krieghoff offers their double stalking rifle ( over and under )in 7mm mag, and 300 mag. and Holland and Holland offers their double rifle( side by side ) in cal's. from 240 H&H all the way to and including 375H&H up to 700 H&H. Just food for thought.

Yes it is a very common practice to cut off the threads and rethread the barrel for the mauser action. As far as the barrel being to thin look at a drilling, they are very thin and still hold together and shoot very well.

Not that I've herd of YET. SOunds good to me thow.

My 9x24 southbend is about the smallest you'd ever want to consider, as I'm not always able to get thicker barrels in the headstock. You'll want a quick change gear box for cutting threads, a steady rest for chambering, and a 3 and 4 jaw chuck, as basic tooling. A set of collets and closer, milling attachment is always a plus. I'd like to have a 10" or 13"southbend myself.

I'd set the clearence at about .008-.o12" you want room for expantion between bolt and breech of barrel when heeted up. Not being fam. with the paticular action you may need to make an extractor cut? if soo same thing for it you need a little room for it to grow when heeted up durring fireing. I'd set the clearence at about .008-.o12" you want room for expantion between bolt and breech of barrel when heeted up. Not being fam. with the paticular action you may need to make an extractor cut? if soo same thing for it you need a little room for it to grow when heeted up durring fireing.

Yes If the barrel is off go all the way through.

Well as far as how far to drill the front hole? Well it depends on what kind of action you'r drilling with the barrel attached. If you'r drilling a small ring, or a turk with small ring mauser threads, just figure 1" barrel shank. If you'r drilling a large ring mauser with lareg ring threads figure 1.100" threads. So just measure the outside of the front of the reciever and subtrract the barrel shank acordingly and that gives you the depth to drill without drilling into the barrel.

Richards microfit does have good stocks, but you cann't get in a hurry. it will be 2-3 months at least. I was very impressed at the quality for a mass produced stock company. and they also sell blems, at a fraction of the cost.

A while back I to was looking for some clover and ended up getting it off line from a place in cal. I think. It is getting hard to find in the auto parts houses.

If you'r visual inspection is still unclear, but some layout die on the rear of the rear locking lug and close the bolt and open it a few times. If the layout die is rubbing off you probubly have some setback in the front locking lugs.

To check the tpi if you don't have a thread pitch gauge start barrel in action measure the distance between action and sholder of barrel screw barrel exactly one full turn and remeasure the diffrence. It should come up with 1/12". Also the major diamater of the thread might be a little to big, as their not all the same exact size. threading it deeper by .003-.006" can make a big diffrence.

Beleave it or not my belted mags. feed as smooth as the stock millitary rifles do. Never fail to pick up and chamber. That was one of the tricks we learned in the 3 year gunsmithing program at Trinidad State Jr. College. Remember always leave you'r self a way out. You may want to change back from a magnum down the road, and a little to much is way too much with the milling machine and the action won't hold anything.

True you can remove the crest, But as I scope most all my rifles it's hidden anyway.

NOTE: There is usually about .010" between the NO< and NOGO guages, on most callibers but they all very.

A 98 turk sure makes a fine sporting rifle, I've built 4-5 of them latley. Some guys don't like the look of the crest on the top of the action but by the time you scope it it cann't be seen. I have one in .35 whelen improved, and it does great, It got me 2 deer at 350-400 yards. My latest is a 7-08 imp. I posted pic's a couple of weeks ago. As far as hardness you can take it to you'r local machine shop and have it tested but I don't think you'r going to have a problem. I'd say go for it.