mad_jack

Wow ( Z ) maby the compairason between cutting off the threads and rethreading a remington barrel to fit a mauser action, and the thickness of a drilling barrel was taken wrong? Yes barrels on a drilling are thin, but a remington barrel would still still be quite a bit thicker. In the first post of the thread KYLE said nothing about a magnum cal. Most drillings are in eurapien cal's. and I don't think 9.3x74 is any punk. But Krieghoff offers their double stalking rifle ( over and under )in 7mm mag, and 300 mag. and Holland and Holland offers their double rifle( side by side ) in cal's. from 240 H&H all the way to and including 375H&H up to 700 H&H. Just food for thought.

Yes it is a very common practice to cut off the threads and rethread the barrel for the mauser action. As far as the barrel being to thin look at a drilling, they are very thin and still hold together and shoot very well.

Not that I've herd of YET. SOunds good to me thow.

My 9x24 southbend is about the smallest you'd ever want to consider, as I'm not always able to get thicker barrels in the headstock. You'll want a quick change gear box for cutting threads, a steady rest for chambering, and a 3 and 4 jaw chuck, as basic tooling. A set of collets and closer, milling attachment is always a plus. I'd like to have a 10" or 13"southbend myself.

I'd set the clearence at about .008-.o12" you want room for expantion between bolt and breech of barrel when heeted up. Not being fam. with the paticular action you may need to make an extractor cut? if soo same thing for it you need a little room for it to grow when heeted up durring fireing. I'd set the clearence at about .008-.o12" you want room for expantion between bolt and breech of barrel when heeted up. Not being fam. with the paticular action you may need to make an extractor cut? if soo same thing for it you need a little room for it to grow when heeted up durring fireing.

Yes If the barrel is off go all the way through.

Well as far as how far to drill the front hole? Well it depends on what kind of action you'r drilling with the barrel attached. If you'r drilling a small ring, or a turk with small ring mauser threads, just figure 1" barrel shank. If you'r drilling a large ring mauser with lareg ring threads figure 1.100" threads. So just measure the outside of the front of the reciever and subtrract the barrel shank acordingly and that gives you the depth to drill without drilling into the barrel.

Richards microfit does have good stocks, but you cann't get in a hurry. it will be 2-3 months at least. I was very impressed at the quality for a mass produced stock company. and they also sell blems, at a fraction of the cost.

A while back I to was looking for some clover and ended up getting it off line from a place in cal. I think. It is getting hard to find in the auto parts houses.

If you'r visual inspection is still unclear, but some layout die on the rear of the rear locking lug and close the bolt and open it a few times. If the layout die is rubbing off you probubly have some setback in the front locking lugs.

To check the tpi if you don't have a thread pitch gauge start barrel in action measure the distance between action and sholder of barrel screw barrel exactly one full turn and remeasure the diffrence. It should come up with 1/12". Also the major diamater of the thread might be a little to big, as their not all the same exact size. threading it deeper by .003-.006" can make a big diffrence.

Beleave it or not my belted mags. feed as smooth as the stock millitary rifles do. Never fail to pick up and chamber. That was one of the tricks we learned in the 3 year gunsmithing program at Trinidad State Jr. College. Remember always leave you'r self a way out. You may want to change back from a magnum down the road, and a little to much is way too much with the milling machine and the action won't hold anything.

True you can remove the crest, But as I scope most all my rifles it's hidden anyway.

NOTE: There is usually about .010" between the NO< and NOGO guages, on most callibers but they all very.

A 98 turk sure makes a fine sporting rifle, I've built 4-5 of them latley. Some guys don't like the look of the crest on the top of the action but by the time you scope it it cann't be seen. I have one in .35 whelen improved, and it does great, It got me 2 deer at 350-400 yards. My latest is a 7-08 imp. I posted pic's a couple of weeks ago. As far as hardness you can take it to you'r local machine shop and have it tested but I don't think you'r going to have a problem. I'd say go for it.

The head space in measured from the bolt face to the top of the breech ( the front of the action where the barrel locks down on ) with you'r depth mic. take the measurment PLEASE NOTE THAT YOU NEED TO COMPLEATELY STRIP THE ACTION AND BOLT TO TAKE THIS MEASUREMENT, with the bolt in the locked position. This is the measurment you need to match with the ( GO ) head space guage in the chamber, measure from the back of the guage to the sholder on the barrel with you'r depth mic. Screw the barrel on the action tight and put the GO guage in the chamber and see if the bolt will close. It should close all the way with out force. Then replace the go guage with the NO GO guage and see how far the bolt closes before it stops. You want the bolt to start camming into the locked position BUT YOU DON'T WANT THE BOLT TO FULLY CLOSE. If the bolt doesn't start camming into closed position you can put an extention on the reamer and hand ream untill the bolt is where it needs to be. Note: when you'r hand reaming you need to go very slow and ONLY GO 1/4 TURNS AT A TIME. And always push patch to clear chips out of chamber every time you pull the reamer out. I always blow with air and use a patch one little bit of metal chaving will give you a fals reading on you'r headspace guages.

I've done several mag. mausers, and never had to ( open the rails ) so to speek. All you need to do is use a cratex tip on you'r dremel tool and round the edges of the rails without taking any off the width. That way if you want to change back later you can. All yopu need are some dummy rounds loaded to check the feeding till you'r done, I usually make about half a dosen.

Walnut why are you thinking you need to reheet treat an action unless it's been in a fire, or misstreated by someone that doesn't know how to weld? All the 98's I've built rifles on are just fine, and I've built some heavy hitters, 7 mag., 35whelen imp. all with no problem. The last two I used turk actions. If it were me I'd find the nicest looking actiuon for the least amount of money and get started. And yes the sweeds are very nice, and can be converted to cock on open if need be. I posted some pictures last week or so here of my latest build, my 7-08 imp. and it's on a turk action. Oh one thing to remember about vz-24's is you'll dull a drill bit taping it for a scope mount their so hard, and have to resharpen you lathe bit after tureing the bolt face, but they make good actions as well. I like all mausers, and have fun building rifles out of them.

There are two ways to tell if you'r down far enough. First one was is to notch the reciever till the safety notvh in the back of the bolt is top dead center. The second way is to look through the scope mount hole, the second from the frint. You should be able to see the gap in the locking lug on the bolt for the ejector. This is the most acurate way, if you already have the action drilled and taped.

On the sr mauser you have to widen and lengthen the notch, Yes the firing pin still needs to travle the same as before or you will decreese the fireing pin protruthion, and may not fire. All the instructions come with the cock on open kit.

Shouldn't be much diffrent than the small ring mauser conversion. My first one took me about 2.5 hours, now after 4-5 more I've done I can do them in about an hour.

Just measure the screw and find one a little bigger, would be nice if it had a pilot on it so not to drill of center.

Yes that's the one right there. They are easy to use, look good, but take a long time to make. My latest build I used a Gentry 3 position modle 70 type safety and shroud. It's at the bluers right now but should get it back next week.

? It shoots well under 1" groups @ 100 yards

[attachmentid=188][attachmentid=190]Ok don here are some more pictures of the safety sorry my camera isnn't that good Some day I'll learn to checker