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Hot Diggity, got a Tommy Gun!


FC

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Richard fixed the picture issue.

Problem I have to solve- bolt locks back after one or two rounds from the drum. I don't know how to fix it yet. Sarco hasn't bothered responding to my email. I called tech support- the guy was worthless. I don't know- what's holding the bolt back, the drum/magazine, or something in the Tommy gun itself? My thought is the magazine, but nothing is sticking up but a bullet. It starts firing after I drop the bolt again. That bolt is notoriously hard to cock. I'm going to look at some posts on lighter springs.

 

Tommy Gun.jpg

Tommy Gun drum.jpg

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That's the problem with SARCO.  I consider them a last-ditch supplier, personally.  If it isn't practically free, I won't bother with them.  Not that I wouldn't buy from them again, but it has to be practically free.  Like my last purchase of ten trigger guards for ten bucks or something.  That was OK.  Their discount AR butt stock/receiver extension, not so much.  I eventually made it work, but I should have spent the extra twenty bucks and bought something else initially.


Anyway, yeah, find out what's holding the bolt open.  I know very little about that rifle.  Is there a bolt hold open after last round fired device?  Is that holding it open? Was that what the "third hand" thing did?  Or is something else holding it open?  Something going sideways?

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The bullet lies at the top of the drum, but doesn't stick up far. The bolt is just hanging open. The 3rd hand pushes up on a nib that will lock the bolt back so you can remove the drum. The bolt is REALLY hard to pull all the way back, and that's the way the stock springs are. I'm going to have to just study the heck out of it and figure out what's holding it back. I learned the hard way that if it doesn't fire, you'd better get that magazine off before pulling back the bolt. Nothing like a hard bolt, a round in the chamber, and another right behind it. Sometimes you pull the trigger, and nothing happens. Yeah, others have that issue too. Pain in the rear. I'm going to have to get intimately acquainted with this thing!

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Img_3736.thumb.jpg.e5fd13fdda707243c2ce03a10a74d41a.jpgI had some luck with my 1927 A1, not perfect, but yes, progress!  It helps to have past dental lab experience.  Dremels are almost like what we used to work on crowns and bridges.  I used a cutoff wheel and removed about a twist and a half of the firing pin spring. Then, with great trepidation, I worked on the trigger assembly. Pull down the little c-shaped spring arm, then remove the assembly. Lots of pictures saved the day.  It took a lot of time, but here's what I did: rubber wheel surfaces smooth. Rubber wheels are good to have in your Dremel kit. Rubber points are nice to have too. You use a stone and shave the points into whatever shape you want. I lightly used the rubber wheel, 320 grit, and 400 grit sandpaper. I also used router bit diamond files (fine and extra-fine). I didn't remove a lot, but smoothed up stuff. I don't know the names of the various trigger assembly parts, but the front-most spring, which the trigger has to fight, got a twist removed with a silicon carbide Dremel wheel. I also removed one tiny twist of the smallest diameter spring in the trigger assembly. Smoothed up the sear and the firing pin catch. I wish I knew the part names, but smoothed the contacting surfaces. See how rough the factory left this? I smoothed up all this junk.  I also used my pinky finger on pieces of the 320 and 400 grit sandpaper on the feed ramp. It's too hard to fit the rubber point in there. It's not perfect, but better. I also used the 320/400 grit sandpaper on the bolt. Img_3711.thumb.jpg.48666b8fe0743151f0d94c7608956aea.jpg

It was tough to reassemble, but you look on the side, and keep aligning the holes with a punch. The good thing is the front pin of the two engages before the rear, so you just get those front parts aligned and dropped in, then get the rear ones engaged, one part at a time.  The trigger is lighter than it was, and cocking it is sure better. The Sarco drum is still vexing me with locking open after every one or two shots. I have no idea what is holding it open? I fitted one of three 30 round magazines I bought, and it works nicely!

Img_3724.jpg

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Sarco did not reply to an email about the drum problems, tech support had no real opinion on solving the problem with the 50 round drum, and the returns guy didn't return my call. I filed a dispute on the purchase. Never again Sarco!

I loaded up the 30 round stick with handloads to test for functionality. I pulled the trigger as fast as I could (finger got tired at the end). 29 flawless rounds, with the bolt locking open on no. 29. Can't complain too much!

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13 hours ago, FC said:

I started reading about what buffers are. This was informative. A bit of it is over my head. http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-semi-auto-pistols/94215-recoil-buffers-what-purpose.html

I used a buffer years ago in an AMT Hardballer 1911. Didn't notice anything significant, didn't reduce recoil but was supposed to extend the life of the frame by providing a cushion. Best I recall as it goes back to late 70's. The pad started disintegrating after a couple years so I tôssed it. Think I only paid two bits for it. 1911 buffer pads I've seen past few years at gun shows appear to be made with silicone rubber and may last longer.

A fellow gun club member claims the buffers are really beneficial in extending the life of either Beretta and Taurus 92's. I've put hundreds perhaps thousands from mild to wild handloads through my Taurus 92 without a buffer. I haven't cracked the frame the Sig, Glock or 1911 92 detractors claim lead to a premature demise. Showing my age I just can't put a lot of faith in plastic pistols. I honestly believe if the buffer pads are beneficial, the USA Military would be using them. 

Oh I just love it!!! As I type Stacy Abrams refusing to concead in a speech despite losing with 96% of votes cast. The gun grabbing cow (female dog was blocked) needs to take a walk. She suggested during campaign to confiscate AR's, all large cap mags and compensate owners. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I ordered a new pawl spring, got the trigger assembly out, then couldn’t find the new spring! I went out there my son right N.H. collection and found. Harbor Freight spring that would slip over my old, slightly shortened spring. It worked! I shot six fast shots from the stick magazine without the bolt locking open. I got one jam with the drum when a round didn’t fire, which is a bear to clear. The bolt locked open when the stick was empty, but not on the drum. I can live with that. More testing is in order.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I don't know how it fixed the problem, but the issue of the drum magazine only shooting one or two rounds before locking the bolt back is resolved (no thanks to any help from Sarco). I opened the magazine lips just a bit by cutting a slot into square 1/4 iron, and bending them back a bit.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

I shot an old toilet at about 50 yards; .45 ACP wouldn’t shatter the porcelain until I got close! I fear ricochets. 

I sure wish there was more effort put by Kahr on making this gun’s internals better. I made it vastly better, but the cartridges have a rough path to the chamber. I can’t get at it with sandpaper except for my pinky. The drum from Sarco isn’t perfect, but better after opening the feed lips a bit. I had two jams while feeding. I suspect I need to tighten the drum spring more than 9 clicks, because feed for the last ten rounds was poor. 

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I recall years ago shooting a 45 at an old car door with a surplus mil ammo  and the rounds didn't penetrate but flattened out to the size of a silver dollar.

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