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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Ar triggers


donmarkey

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I've read a lot of good things about the Geissels.  Peter G. Kokalis swore by them and put them in every AR he had.  I've avoided spending the two bills on one.  I usually clean up a stock trigger and use that.  I do have one nice aftermarket trigger that was given to me.  Don't remember the brand.

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On 4/25/2019 at 7:37 PM, Quick Karl said:

Geissle - because its beyond amazing. You will never even try to tune an AR trigger after you squeeze a Geissle. I hesitated because of price, until I installed it and squeezed it.

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If I ever sell the rifle I will install a stock trigger and keep the Geissle.
 

Ssa or ssa-e? There are some good prices on the e lately. Wondering if it is worth the upcharge. I was thinking that for 2 stage or cmc for single. Weighing my options. 

Don

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I saw an Ar trigger on YouTube that drops the hammer when the shooter pulls and again when he lets go. Be great for rapid firing but I wondered what is one to do shooting it once then being forced to shoot again releasing the trigger. 

Not sure of the brand AR trigger a club member brought to a meeting. Trigger blade was straight, no curve and he claimed it was set for one and a quarter lbs. Myself and other members were encouraged to dry fire it. No creep, very crisp but to light for my liking. As light as the pull was it would be great for bench rest or varmints but would take some getting used to. 

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The 2 shots trigger thing is I think called "binary" something or other.  They got it past the ATF's rules on one pull, one shot because you can pull the trigger, hold it back, put the safety on and it will not fire when you take your finger off. Sells for under three hundred, I think.  I have another trigger I bought at a show.  It is "assisted reset" or something.  When the bolt slams home, it pushes the trigger forward slightly.  There is also a 3 position safety with it, safe, fire and assisted.  It doesn't really do anything to "assist", but I think it is cool to have the 3 position safety, and it is a very nice trigger regardless.  Just another gimmick.


I think several companies make straight triggers now. 

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     JP is my choice for serious accuracy on my prairie dog guns and a thousand yard 308 I play with . You chose your springs according to application make your adjustments then you may or may not need to fit/time the disconnector then fit it to your safety.

    Sounds worse than it is but you can adjust them to make up for pin hole geometry that leaves allot to be desired and screws you on other triggers. They are sweet!

   I’ve never tried the roller shoe model or the easy fit safety. Been using them for 25 years. They bottom out at about 2.75 pounds on 5.56 and 3 on my 308

   They have very easy to follow instructions and while I’ve never had a problem I have had a few questions over the years and they were all over them very helpful.

  On my beaters I polish sear engagement surfaces on milspec parts bob the hammer and either use JP springs or cut one leg off the milspec hammer spring and bend both legs of the trigger spring up then use a 3/4 in grip screw that allows me to install a 1/4 in set screw first that allows you to adjust sear engagement,some of these turn out very nice others still have a slight amount of creep depending on geometry but at less then two bucks for screws they are very budget friendly and usually yield a 4.5 pound pull.

            Jim

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So far I use all off the shelf triggers that come with whatever lower parts kit that I use. Usually Anderson, or DPMS.

I have found it to be beneficial to "stone" the trigger before assembly. I use a very fine ceramic stone.

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  • 2 months later...

A bit late and off track some. A bud called last night literally raving about a trigger job on his AR-15 by a gunsmith I recommended.  Can't recall name but it's an oddball AR brand. A gunsmith stoning and polishing original parts and changing a spring apparently gave my friend a thrill up his leg. About a year and a half ago the same smith did a trigger job on my Remington 1911. It was like a night and day improvement with all the stock parts. 

Ive never messed with an AR trigger, leaned my lesson years ago doing it myself on a 1970's Colt 1911. Has anybody done any improvements on their stock AR parts?? I've got a M-1 Carbine with a near ridiculous trigger. I've over come the temptation to improve it myself but just can't see dropping a Franky on a range toy. I did have some success back in the 70's on a Marlin 30/30 but just don't have the skills to try it again. 

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I clean up any stock AR trigger I use.  I mostly just take the metal on metal parts of the sear/hammer to my cloth buffing wheel with some red rouge and polish it all up until it is as smooth and shiny as I can get it. 

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15 hours ago, Dr.Hess said:

I clean up any stock AR trigger I use.  I mostly just take the metal on metal parts of the sear/hammer to my cloth buffing wheel with some red rouge and polish it all up until it is as smooth and shiny as I can get it. 

Does it make a significant improvement?? I tried it way back when on a Colt series 70 38 Super. Guess I got carried away as the hammer was following the slide into battery. Took it to a smith and he had to replace the hammer and sear. 

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It can make a big improvement.  It depends on how bad the sear/hammer interface is to start with.  The cheap lower parts kits can be, well, cheap.  Polishing them up can really help.  It is important to just polish, not change the shape of the parts. You changed the shape on those parts.  If you do that, you really have to know what you're doing.  Just polishing with a buffer and rouge isn't going to do anything bad.  I have also used a cloth buffer tool on a Dremmel and red rouge.

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16 hours ago, The Zen Master said:

Nothing like emptying the mag on a 1911 with one trigger pull; that is how we all learned to do it right or hand it to someone that will!

My Springfield Range Officer came with a real nice factory trigger and there was no need to touch it - crisp, clean, 3.5 lbs. I should get out more and shoot the thing!

My very first lesson in full auto was done with a worn out WW2 surplus European 32

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