Mosin Nagant Sporter

[mimic]

I'm putting together a pair of M44 scout rifles to give out to some hunting buddies. I figure between the rifle (cutting down and crowning the barrel BEHIND the bayonet lug), the stock (ATI synthetic), the scout scope mount w/ red dot scope, bending the bolt handle (just because), the whole project will have less than 200 bucks into it. After the standard action clean and polish, I'm just going to duracoat these puppies. They're for hunting whitetails at carbine distances (200 yards and less), so I'm not looking for pinpoint accuracy, just a good enough grouping to kill a deer.

What I want to know is have any of you guys played around with accurizing any of the Nagant's? I plan to full legnth bed, using the "2 layers of masking tape" on the bottom half of the barrel to free float. I figure this will only add a few ounces, but hopefully give me a nice stiff forend in the stock. I can do the crown myself, but I haven't really seen any tools that make lapping the lugs easy, much less anything else.

 

Here's a photo I found online that pretty much pinpoints what I'm looking to accomplish. Doubt I'll use the bi-pod, but the rest is nice.

http://www.makarov.com/mosmount/M44-03MkII.JPG

[MorgansBoss]

I toyed with one a year or so back, never completely worked out the bugs but it was a major overhaul - actually a complete re-manufacture. Two suggestions I'd make although it may be more than you want to do are to simply cut off and weld on a new bolt handle - the original is really too short to forge - and consider a cantilever scope base. By doing so you can mount a regular scope in the normal position. The one pictured here is actually a two-piece mount but requires major modification including a new (one-of-a-kind so far) safety to do away with the "over the bridge" safety of the original. The receiver ring is extra long on these rifles and the action short enough that a cantilever mount made from Weaver-base stock material should be possible. This does require a 90 degree bolt handle though, which in turn requires shortening the right-side of the bridge slightly to allow passage of the bolt (rib and handle) under the scope.

 

As I said, it may be more than you're willing to put into these rifles, but a consideration for the future at least.

 

[z1r]

If you are going with a scout mount I'd leave the handle alone. If you just bend it without adding length you will likely end up with a bolt that is harder to operate than it was as issued.

 

Also, if it has a matching bolt I wouldn't mess with lapping the lugs. They should be pretty well ground by now. Besides, you are building a 200 yd carbine not a bench gun.

 

I've somehow managed to amass three of these things: An M38 carbine, an Finn M39, and a 91/30. I'll have buy some dies & brass now. I like em as-is, especially the carbines and think the sights are well suited to 200 yd hunting.

 

Good luck with the projects. Post pics when done.

[Guest TONEY]

When will timney make triggers for the nagant? Seen there making them for the japs agian, there's a lot more nagants out there than japs

[Guest Guest]

mimic, you have touched on a subject that I have some experience in. My personel preference to sporters as of late has been the Mosin Nagants. Here is one I made from a polish m44, bayonet lug and sight bases removed. I took the breach end of an old enfield barrel and turned it down for the end of the barrel, drilled it out to 9/16 and pinned it where the bayo lug was. It serves as a bit of a counter weight. It has the ATI mount and bolt handle kit on it and the bore was not real good. Not terribly pitted, but there was pitting. Reblued with cold blue and fitted into a Richards stock, full length bedding. I am posting a picture of the rifle as well as a front and back view of a 100 yard target. You may be the judge as to whether or not they are worth it from the targets. They are of a ten shot group. This was my first MN sporter, but has not been my last as I now have another and a stock to do besides. Hope this helps you to decide what to do. I did not shorten the already short barrel, only added the stub on the end, which is about 1 inch longer than the site base/ bayo,lug was. I haven't used anymore of the ATI bolt handles but it is a very solid kit and I would not hesitate to use one again. For now though, I am welding on handles. swamp_thing

[swamp_thing]

Sorry about that, the above post with the targets and rifle is mine, I forgot to log in. swamp_thing

[MorgansBoss]

MN bolts are much easier to weld than Mausers (and their kin) due to the seperate bolt head. No worry about screwing up the lugs! You guys keep this up and you're going to get me interested in picking up my old project!

[sonic1]

the weaver no.1 side mount works real nice on these also.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-4/988983/MVC-006S.JPG

[mauserbull]

Could thread or silver solder over the bayo lug a muzzle brake. Slide the whole bayo lug off the barrel and afix a muzzle break. Hope this is some what clear.

[BobVZ]

I have toyed with the idea and made a few notes and drawings should I get the urge to try it. Here is what I think I'd do:

 

1. Acquire a 91/30 donor rifle. These have the inner receiver ring the M44's lack and the long barrel eliminates the step problem.

2. Cut the bolt handle off flush with the midrib and weld on a 1917/14 Enfield bolt handle(a Rem 700 would work too). Reduce the angle of the bends in the dogleg to improve the lines and bring the grasping ball even further back. This should bring the ball even with the bottom of the stock at the front of the guard bow.

3. Improve the looks of the trigger guard by removing the finger rest from the rear of the guard, then blend, thin and shape the bow to pleasing lines. Next, remove the unsightly rivet in through the magazine and replace with a tight-fitting pin, dressed flush.

4. Taper the tip of the trigger to pleasing lines, eliminating the boxy appearance.

5. Remove the rear sight. Cut and crown barrel to 22 inches.

6. Fashion a sheet steel safety( similar to a Rem 700) that saddles around the trigger pin stud and hinges on an elongated trigger pin secured w/C-clips. It would block the rearward travel of the trigger and the trigger spring.

7. Install a Williams Side Mount Over Center scope mount.

8. Polish and blue all metal, even the bolt. This will make the cocking piece and bolt less massive in appearance.

9. Drop metal into a Richards stock of my choosing.

10. Finish stock and reassemble.

 

11. Have and adult beverage and two Motrin!

 

[hylander7]

Well here is what I did: 1939 Tula

I love it, Plan on using it for a Pig Hunt

I was thinking of cutting it down to 24" but can't bring myself to do it.

[gunnutty]

MorganBoss:

 

I'm intrigued by your M-N safety modification. Do you have some detail photos of it?

[BobVZ]

MorganBoss:

 

I'm intrigued by your M-N safety modification.  Do you have some detail photos of it?

8830[/snapback]

 

 

Sorry, No photos as this is only theory at present. I do have rough drawings. PM me your E-mail/fax and I'll scan and send. In this drawing I have updated the design by using the upper arm as designed and cutting a slot in the receiver to allow it to block the cocking cam, thus locking the bolt and blocking the trigger at the same time. In the original design, the upper arm was bent to the left side at a 90 degree angle so that it jammed the underside of the sear/spring. I hope to acquire some gunsmith special actions to practice on.

 

Bob

[JimM44]

This answers some of the questions of how this guy did his M44,

http://www.gswagner.com/mosin-nagant/mnsporter.html I hope this helps. Jim

[swamp_thing]

I have posted these pictures before but so you might see a welded handle and finished stock I will repost these two pictures of the last one I did. I have the wood to start another over the winter months. I made the scope mount. swamp_thing