Clemson Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 The charger guide or "hump" is useless unless you plan to clip-load your rifle. Keeping it requires scope bases that will clear the hump. I chose to remove the hump on my 98/22 project rifle. I used nothing but (gasp!) files to do the work. The fixture is from Holeshot. I have a Tipton fixture from Midway that is going back. The holes are out of plumb. Here is a quick tutorial on charger hump removal........ This shows the receiver along with the components of a receiver Shaping and Polishing Fixture: Here is the receiver with the fixture bolted in place: The view of the Holeshot Fixture from the top. It bolts to a block using a rod held in the bolt raceway: The fixture is held in the bench vise so the action sits in position to be filed on: I started filing on the top of the hump: This shot shows the receiver about half done. The files are in the background. A 10" and a 12" flat are sufficient for me. After about 30 minutes of careful file work, the hump is gone. I'll work the sides of the charger guides down a bit with smaller needle files to finish up. Clemson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racepres Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 Z probably won't toot his own horn but... http://www.mausercentral.com/crestpitremoval.htm I'll do it for him... This was already linked on the old boards but perhaps was lost.... Never enough information as far as I am concerned on how others are accomplishing their projects... thanks to ya Clemson for sharing your method also.. MV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbamauser Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Thanks Clemson, The first time I did this with a stone I'll be using your method next it looks good and I'm better with a file (still working on patience) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoedoh Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Clemson, I'm glad you brought this up. And thank you for the pictures. I won't comment on my po-boy 2x4 block I screw the receiver to when I need to file or polish it... I spent ~8 hours one weekend about a month ago filing the charger bridge and crest off; polishing; and drilling and tapping a Turkish receiver. (Reference the action I have posted a couple times recently.) This is the second receiver I've done in this manner and have found that all it takes is a good eye for detail, patience, and good assortment of files to acheive good results. One comment I'll add is that it is wise to start out with a cheap file to break through the majority of the outer case hardening and then follow up with your better files. This way, you won't dull your Nicholson files quite so quickly. In any case, take your time. Metal taken off isn't easily removed... Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmc0332 Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 A friend of mine told me to use chalk on my files to keep filings from getting imbedded in the serrations in the file and making scratches. It worked much better for me that way. I will be doing this charger hump removal on my future projects also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Thanks Clemson, The first time I did this with a stone I'll be using your method next it looks good and I'm better with a file (still working on patience) Stones are only for polishing not serious metal removal like eliminating the charger hump. They can be used to good affect on the front ring by themselves even for pitting removal. Nice pics clemson. I have a jig like that only with cuts milled in it so that when clamped at the cuts the fixture is tilted at the proper angle. It can be used to mill the flats on either side of the crown of the bridge. It could be used for filing just as easily and would be helpful in that it would establish a surface parallel to the ground. The other fixture I use is shown in the Mauser central tutorial and elsewhere on this site. It is nice for use in the mill but also when just using hand tools for the same reasons listed above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustybore Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Clemson, will you have the receiver heat treated after taking off so much metal? I know some that "freak" when just the crest is removed, and others seem to think it is o.k. I don't know what to think. Kevin in Or. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Clemson, will you have the receiver heat treated after taking off so much metal? I know some that "freak" when just the crest is removed, and others seem to think it is o.k. I don't know what to think. Kevin in Or. Kevin, Is the bridge subjected to any load? The only surface on the bridge that needs to be hard is the extractor cam. That said, since I have all mine rehardened, I do any changes such as this first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montea6b Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 For the one and only that I did I left the barrel on and had the receiver protruding from the barrel vice. Seemed handy for shifting the body angle around while filing. I also used a grinder, (careful here!) to get through the case hardening before switching to files. Not my ideas, they came from the AGI video, but they worked for me! By the way, nice work Clemson! The photos are always so slow to load I read down then jumped on to type before I looked at the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manureman Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Very nice Clemson ! And again thanks for your time and trouble. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbamauser Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Now you tell me It took about 8 hours to get that ****'er down, I thought because of the hardening it had to be done that way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsefly Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Clem and Z,do ya'll remember where you got your fixtures? I recieved my new Midway catalog yesterday,and didn't see one in it.I think it's something I got to have.Maybe I'll get my scope mount jig out and build me a fixture,use it for a pattern.I can get some 2''x6''x6'' aluminum at work that should make a dandy holding fixture.Thanks for all your trouble Clemson.That was a good post! Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemson Posted February 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Well fellas, I'm glad the photos are useful to you. z1r's stoning technique comes next. I don't know that I can duplicate his polish jobs, though! As z pointed out, the rear bridge work alone will not require a reheat treatment. I doubt that I will reheat this particular receiver anyway. It shows zero signs of setback, so I have no reason to believe that it is not adequately case-hardened in the critical areas. In light of the fact that the sight had Arabic numbers on it, I figure that this 98/22 spent life firing that "warm" Turkish ammunition. If it were going to need reheat treatment, it would be showing some signs of that by now! I do apologize for the slow loading for those of you with dial-up connections. I could post these things twice with only a URL reference for the dial-up users if that would help anything. I sort of thought that I would photograph the whole process of turning out a rifle, even though it may take a couple of years at the rate that I can get stuff done. z1r: That is a great idea about milling the fixture. For those of you who may not know, the rear bridge of the Mauser is not really rounded. It has two 30 degree flats, with a rounded top surface where the flats meet. I could take my fixture and bottom it out in an adjustable milling vise, then set the vise on 30 degrees to mill both sides of the receiver bridge, then work the remainder of the hump down with a file. There are only a couple of problems with that approach: 1) I don't have an adjustable milling vise, and 2) I don't have a milling machine right now! I do have access to the local technical college, and I can use a Bridgeport there if I need one. I will probably try to get a milling attachment for my lathe sometime, but I understand that those are not nearly as satisfactory as a regular knee and column milling machine. Jerry: This particular fixture came from an ebay auction from an outfit named "Holeshot LTD" in Tennessee. If you will search ebay, you can find some of their stuff. I got the fixture for less than $25. I am certainly not the Shell Answer Man when it comes to rifle building. I have done a few, though, and this forum is a great place to trade experience and to learn. Some of you folks just awe me with the projects that you are willing to undertake. Clemson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Horsefly, I made both my fixtures, and the one I am currently using. Brownells has the fixture that uses the mandrel. Look back a bit as the Brownells part number was posted here not long ago. Clemson, great set of pics in this series of your. My shop is too messy for photos, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clark Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 with a mill[attachmentid=26] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Now you tell me It took about 8 hours to get that ****'er down, I thought because of the hardening it had to be done that way That's the best one I've read in awhile. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 I've done about a half dozen now. 4.5" mini grinder and a steady hand and I have 98% of it off in about 10min. Then I break out the files. I let the area behind the hump be my guide. The file tends to 'skate' across the hardened area that hasn't been hit with the grinder. When the file isn't cutting any 'hump' material any longer and just 'skating' I stop. There are other clues. Keep the line straight where the 30* angle meets the left (bolt stop) side. I just did one over the weekend, had it shaped in about 20 min. Not polished just shaped. Oh and it was an 03 Turk so there was about twice the metal as any other. Tinker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steve W Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Clem and Z,do ya'll remember where you got your fixtures? I recieved my new Midway catalog yesterday,and didn't see one in it.I think it's something I got to have.Maybe I'll get my scope mount jig out and build me a fixture,use it for a pattern.I can get some 2''x6''x6'' aluminum at work that should make a dandy holding fixture.Thanks for all your trouble Clemson.That was a good post! Jerry Another idea that worked for me was to use a 1-2-3 block bolted to the receiver with a scrap piece of flat bar stock on the rails. If you don't have a set of blocks, cheap ones can be had for $10 (Enco, etc) and used for lots of other things as well. I put it in an angle vice to mill the hump off and it worked great. I might hesitate to put it in a vice with serrated jaws though! - Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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