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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Extractor Relief Cut On A "mod 98"


tinkerfive

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Guys, I've got a Mod 98 that I'm rebarreling.

I took note when I took the old barrel off that there apears to be contact

between the extractor and the breech face of the barrel.

 

I was wondering if it would be OK to make a shallow relief cut in the breech

face for the extractor. They make a sizeable cut on the intermediate Yugo

24's / 48's. I was thinking that something on the order of 1/16" would be enough.

 

I can't see that there is anything wrong, it just looks as if tolerances is the only

reason.

 

Anyone run into this before?

 

Thanks!

Tinker

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The relief cut should not be needed on a standard M98, and when rebarreling a Yugo M48, some have gotten by with only thinning the end of the extractor a bit.

 

I cut a relief on one I did, but since then I have heard from others here that it may not be necessary. It is very close in any case.

 

 

fritz

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I agree with fritz. Should not be needed on a standard 98 instead cosider dressing the face of the extractor or shopping for a thinner one.

 

 

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I bought a K.Kale Turk at a gunshow with the intention of making a sporter out of it. When I disassembled it I found the breech end of the barrel had been ground down on one side. It looked original and I guess that maybe some Turkish armorer did it in the field with a blindfold and one arm tied behind his back! Anyway after inspecting it I found that the extractor was hitting the barrel. I tried many different bolts and swapped twice as many extractors and never could get a combination that didn't protrude at least .020" past the inner ring. I used that receiver to practice all kinds of stuff but sooner or later I will rebarrel it with a slight clearance cut for the extractor. I will do it with a file of course!

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If the front portion of the C-ring where the breech of the barrel seats was over milled that would set the barrel back would it not?

Could you put a washer to shim the barrel forward a bit?

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If the front portion of the C-ring where the breech of the barrel seats was over milled that would set the barrel back would it not?

Could you put a washer to shim the barrel forward a bit?

 

Wouldn't the extractor then just hit the washer rather than the breech?

 

If the extractor hits the breech on a standard 98 then it is by accident not by design. Most likely a confluence of tolerances. As has been mentioned, the extractor can and does slide a bit forward. When checking fit be sure it is all the way rearward.

 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have a M1903 Turk Mauser, an intermediate action military contract rifle by Oberndorf. Had it rebarreled and found it wasn't touching reinforcing ring at all. With new barrel installed, extractor hit breech face and wouldn't close, had to cut extractor groove. Apearently this happened in 1938 national refurb program when these were converted from 7.65 to 8mm by rebarreling and lengthing the magazine box along with cutting a groove in rear face of front receiver face to permit loading the longer 8mm ctgs from stripper clips and altering the stripper clip guide to accept the 3rd pattern stripper clip.

 

Love those M03s, they are a gunsmithing course all in themselves. Best part of the deal was the 3 beautiful welded bolt handles I got from Z1R, he's the next Tom Burgess. Every detail attended to, beveled top edge of bolt root to lever bolt out of lugs using diagonal cut in top of rear receiver ring, and groove in top flat of bolt root to avoid cracking or hammering the top of the rear receiver ring when the bolt is in full upright position. These bolts look as though they came out of the Oberndorf factor. Line up guys, beg and plead, offer bags of gold and hope he looks in your direction. Hope he can get over being such a nice fellow, this will keep him from getting rich off guys like us. Bill U

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