Setting The Barrel

[spec4 e4]

Ok guys getting ready to set my first barrel on the receiver. Need to know how much pressure to put on the barrel to set it and do I need to put any thing on the thread to keep it from locking or damaging the threads on the receiver or barrel?

 

Thanks

spec.4

[z1r]

Get some anti sieze from the auto parts store and smear it on the threads & breech to prevent galling. I snug it up then BUMP it. Unless you are CLARK you don't need more than 30-40 ft bs. Clark likes 300.

[Clemson]

I have always just lubed the threads lightly with High Pressure lube. Chassis lube will work fine. You just want the threads to be able to pull up tight without galling. I snug the threads up and then lean on the wrench handle without a cheater or hammer. That is probably about 100 ft-lbs, but my torque wrench calibration varies with the amount of Bud Light I consume whilst doing this installation.

 

Clemson

[fmsniper]

hows it going Spec4

 

I just drop the action wrench and let it lock in place, the tap it with may hand.

 

[S.B]

Are you guys serious? Most of the barrels I've witnessed some else put on had a cheater pipe on the wrench and still plenty of elbow grease. I've put barrels on AR-15's and M14's. With both my main problem was keeping the barrel from turning while spinning the barrel in. Rosen on the inside of the barrel vice jaws, seems to work well for this problem. Why would you invest in a barrel vice and action wrench, if it's that easy? Am I missing something here? I think the Smith & Wesson pistols I've taken off and replaced, used more force than you have described here?

[z1r]

SB,

 

Just cuz they come off hard doesn't mean they need to be installed that way, unless you are Clark of course.

 

If you like yours torqued real tight then go right ahead. Meanwhile me and my under tightened Mausers will be shooting the bulls out of targets & harvesting game without problems.

[Guest Robert Bradley]

I like to set them very tight then back out. Do this about three times to smooth up the threads and eliminate any looseness. Then back out and bring back tight with a firm snap of the wrist on the wrench. They can then be removed without a hammer but will stay tigh until a wrench is used. Hand tight without a wrench would be fine for anything other than a target rifle so long as they stayed that tight.

[spec4 e4]

z1r, The chambers is to long and need to be shorten by .02" and the barrels will be cut down to 24-1/4" and then beadblasted then slow rust blue. Well one will be the other will have an bake on finish. S.S. color.

 

Thanks for the replies, I guess there is no wrong way off doing it.

 

spec.4

[Guest Guest]

I guess there is no wrong way off doing it. 

 

spec.4

1583[/snapback]

 

Spec4,

 

Don't believe that. Overtigtening a barrel sets up all kind of stresses on a receiver that are not conducive to accuracy. Many of the top bench resters screw ther barrels on not much more than hand tight. I go tighter than that but you don't need anywhere near gorilla strength for barrelling a Mauser.

 

Also, know that it is possible to stretch a mauser receiver by overtightening the barrel. None of those that advocate super tight bother to think through the process or measure. If you'll look inside the receiver you'll notice a circular relief cut in front of the so called "C" ring. The depth of this cut varies on receivers. The thinnest being on the Kar98a. Many have thought it a good idea to regrind the front ring on the K.Kale receivers so as to make small ring 98's out of them.. but what these intrepid souls did not bother to do is measure the depth of this relief cut. Most of which were cut to the same depth as found in a standard large ring 98.

 

There is no need for ham fisted mechanics when building a Mauser.

[Guest Guest_Clark_*]

I have a 45acp Mauser that I have shot good groups with the barrel hand tight.

 

I just took the barrels off 20 of the 1903 Turk Mausers, and all too 300 ft-lb to get off and after cleaning the male and female threads, some took 300 ft lb to get back on.

 

[spec4 e4]

I have set two of my barrel after finally getting them short chamber. I did not use an barrel vise, but did used my reg. vise that had an pipe holder. I put the wrench at an 3'oclock and then I raise it up and throw it down and tap it with an rubber mallet. I can not unscrew it by my bare hands.

 

I did cut the barrel to open it up again.

 

spec.4

[Guest Guest]

Well, I guess I've learned something here. And that's a good thing.

[Guest mauserhouser]

Mr. Darrel Holland recommends 60 ft lbs. and i have been using that for years and have never had one back off. most Remington barrels are way less than that but they have a nasty habbit of using lock tight to be able to get the barrel close to shouldering and line up the sights without having to change the shoulder numerous times while doing so.