RifleMan Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 Hey all. I've been lurking for a bit, reading up on some of the various Mauser projects, and getting ideas for a Scout Rifle I want to build. Well, I've got the Kuhnhausen book, and a C&R, but I'm not totally clear on the easiest Mauser action to rebarrel. I've heard things like "safety breach" and "heat treat," and frankly, I think I only have about 80% of the picture. So I'm asking for your collective help. Here's what I want to do: 1. .308 Win Mauser 2. Custom stock (have a Boyd's "rifle carving stock" - essentially a near blank) 3. Want a scope mounted forward of the breach Here's what I THINK I need: 1. Some kind of 98 action. I've been told that the vz-24 or the real McCoy 98k is the way to go, to avoid having to cut the safety breach into the new barrel, but how hard is it to cut, really? 2. Length of blank picatinny or weaver rail to mount onto the receiver. 3. New barrel blank or rough-chambered barrel. My basic idea is: 1. Remove the barrel. 2. Chamber a new barrel. 3. Thread the barrel and receiver to fit tightly. 4. Fit the barrel to the receiver, headspace (possibly cut the "safety breach" thingy?). 5. Replace a couple fire control parts with what I want (new trigger, gaurd, hinge plate, etc.) 6. Finish the metal. 7. Inlet the stock, glasbed, finish. How far off am I? What would be the best action to buy, with the above in mind? What tools can I get away with NOT having? What tools are essential, given the above? I really appreciate your responses. I want to do this right the first time, and value the experience of others very highly. Thanks, Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 Nathan First off WELCOME!!! Other that the 'safety breech thingy' you are pretty much right on. The 'safety breech' is pretty much a Remington exclusive. I can't think of others that have it right now, Mausers don't have it. The 'safety breech' is when the bolt head (male part) fits up inside a recess (female part) cut into the breech of the barrel. On a Mauser there is actualy clearance between the bolt face and the breech that allows for the extractor and no recess that the bolt head would fit inside. My recomendation for a first project would be something less grand until you've honed your skills. If you have your C&R look for some 3 or 5 fer $XXX.XX from Century or another vendor. Practice on them, then get your VZ24 and go to town on that project when you know what you are doing. Don't be afraid to ask questions, we've all been there at one time ourselves. Tinker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 Mausers do indeed have that safety breech thingy. Well, some anyway. The Yugo intermediates do. Now, you can rebarrel them without having to cut the safety breech but if you have a lathe it is no big deal. That said, it is easiest to begin with a standard LR 98. This includes the VZ24, K98, G98, Argentine 1909, and a host of others. How much you can do yourself depends mostly on your ability and your tools. How are you equiped? Welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RifleMan Posted June 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 First off, let me say - I'm in NO great rush to complete this project. What I'm after is the decision of the right action to use that will be the best for the project. I plan to buy a full Mauser now, shoot the crap out of it, just because the surplus 8mm is available right now, then, later, rebarrel it, etc. At this time, I'm VERY poorly equipped - I live in an apartment with no provision for a real workshop, but am moving soon. After I move, my goal is to have at least a mini mill and mini lathe in a workshop, plus all the other standard accoutrements, like vices, a grinder, etc. Right now, I have access to a CNC mill, manual mill, manual lathe, and various shop tools, but it's at the whim of the shop supervisor at work (his whims so far have not allowed me to use the shop, but he keeps telling me that I'm allowed, just not "today"). So there you go... when I get better access to the proper tooling, this will be my project. For the immediate future, I'm just interested in buying the right gun so I don't spend a lot of money (and safe space, which I'm nearly out of, by the way) on something that won't work very well/very easily for my plans. Thanks for the responses so far! -Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic1 Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 RIFLEMAN what state do you live in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 98 Mauser actions are better than 93 Mauser actions, bigger, stronger, improved. If I could get them cheap, I would have Mexican and Argintene Mausers, but they are not being imported now, so they are few and costly. Cheap and available are what is in Shotgun News now. Most Mauser come through Century Arms, but not all. Many of the Mauser that come through Century can be had from a distributor for cheaper than Century sells on the non sale prices. I like to buy from AIM: http://aimsurplus.com/acatalog/Rifles.html It looks like all they have is M48s and 24/47s right now. That is just fine for the short .308 cartridge. My guess is that Century is sitting on another 1,000,000 of the 1903 Turkish Mausers, but doesn't want to sell them for $25 with free shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RifleMan Posted June 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 sonic1 - I'm in California. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 sonic1 - I'm in California. ME too, where? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 "My guess is that Century is sitting on another 1,000,000 of the 1903 Turkish Mausers, but doesn't want to sell them for $25 with free shipping." Damned, I hope it ain't so because I already have too many of their previous specials. But you can rest assured that inflation has set in in the surplus rifle business, and you ain't going to see $25 rifles again. Keep dreaming. I woke up a few years ago. fritz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 I think the M48 and 24/47 Yugos that are plentiful right now are the best cost/benefit option right now. I especially like the 24/47s - probably because they come with nice, modifiable walnut stocks. All of the X x 57/55 cartridges fit and feed reliably, and I don't see any real benefit of longer cases. I can't think of anything that can't be done well on the X x 57 platform: Long range 6.5 x 55 loaded-up; deer 6.5 x 55 or 7 x 57; elk 8 x 57; varmints 6 mm Rem or 257 Roberts. Don't forget the 7.65 x 53 which is everything the 308 Win is and more. It was all covered before the turn (of the last) century. I do like the 30-06 and 280 Rem though. All the magnumitis is unnecessary (and I suspect has something to do with trying to compensate for other deficiencies). Having just put a couple hundred rounds of 200 - 300 gr 45 cal bullets down range out of a Colt 45 makes me think that a similar situation exists for handguns. I finally know what a hand cannon is. All I needed was a hot dog and a hounds tooth jacket and I could have been Harry Callahan. Sorry for the egregious digression. Buy a 24/47 for your project, you'll have a search on your hands finding anything better. And consider the 7.65 x 53 instead of the 308. Take it one step at a time. Ask questions here and you'll get good (but potentially conflicting - but we have to have our fun too) advice about how to proceed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 As DT said, the .308 would be agood choice for ne of the Yugos. I too like the 24/47 and since you are in CA you might check with big5. Last week they were $99. My issue 24/47 will shoot 1" all day long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbamauser Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 The m48 handles 30-06 pretty well also, with just a little file work on the magazine, I have put over 100 rds through mine without any type of failure to feed. Go through some of the older posts there is alot of great info here. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RifleMan Posted July 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 ME too, where? I'm in Campbell, near San Jose. I think the M48 and 24/47 Yugos that are plentiful right now are the best cost/benefit option right now. I especially like the 24/47s - probably because they come with nice, modifiable walnut stocks. That's what I had in mind, and was all set to get one, until someone on another board mentioned the safety cut in the new barrel, and that I'd need a lathe to do the cut. Would it be possible for anyone to post pictures of this "feature" in comparison with a regular k98? I'm having a hard time visualizing it, and it sounds like a lathe won't do it. But then, this is new to me. Thanks again for the replies. -Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 I'm in Campbell, near San Jose. Too bad, I'm in LA That's what I had in mind, and was all set to get one, until someone on another board mentioned the safety cut in the new barrel, and that I'd need a lathe to do the cut. Would it be possible for anyone to post pictures of this "feature" in comparison with a regular k98? I'm having a hard time visualizing it, and it sounds like a lathe won't do it. But then, this is new to me. You can rebarrel one without making the cut. So, a short chamberd barrel & reamer is all you need. The safety breech is simply a bit more metal surrounding the head of the case. Normally the barrel stops where it meets the inner "C" ring. On a safety breech the barrel is cut so that part of it protrudes past the "C" ring. That part is reduced in diameter to just under the diameter of the part of the "C" ring where the bolt head normally protrudes into. Thus the need to also cut an extractor groove. The plus side is that you have more metal surrounding the case head. the down side is that the bolt lacks the little feed guides on it and feeding can be an issue. That's why it was discontinued. I've never experienced feed issues. Thanks again for the replies. -Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RifleMan Posted July 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 Ah, I think I finally see it. Without seeing it in person, of course. So the barrel basically must be able to fit within the "C" ring, and also have a relief cut for the extractor (almost making it a "C" shaped cut in the breach end of the barrel)? The big question is, if the gun originally had the safety chamber with the extractor cut, do I need it when rebarreling? I'm not clear on this point. Will the rebarreled gun still be robust enough, or will the strength or integrity suffer? I think I need to re-read the Kuhnhausen book, now. -Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbamauser Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 a standard mauser 98 barrel works fine in the m48 action Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RifleMan Posted July 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 Great. So for intents and purposes, the 98k and the M48 are the same action? I'm talking in terms of dimensions on the receiver thread/chamber area (I realize that the M48 is about a quarter inch shorter overall). I guess maybe what I should do is get one of those 3-fer specials and start messing around. I'll start with the M48 or the Bosnian Mauser, and go from there. Thanks again for all the replies. I have a lot to learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted July 7, 2006 Report Share Posted July 7, 2006 I realize that the M48 is about a quarter inch shorter overall This is the only difference I worry about. Good luck with your project! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz Posted July 7, 2006 Report Share Posted July 7, 2006 Century July Special---24/47 very good was $119 now $99. Tell them fritz sent you. fritz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RifleMan Posted July 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2006 Fritz Yeah, I completely missed that line in the July Specials email. Thanks for the heads-up! At that price I can just about justify buying two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted July 7, 2006 Report Share Posted July 7, 2006 ...I can just about justify buying two or 4, or 8, or 16, or 32, or 64, or 128 or 256... Let me know if you need a Turk. I think I have 64. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz Posted July 8, 2006 Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 "Let me know if you need a Turk. I think I have 64." Do you have a Turk carbine (the short rifle 1938)? I'll trade you two long Turks for it. fritz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted July 9, 2006 Report Share Posted July 9, 2006 Sorry, fritz, no tengo un carbino. But I bet I could make one! I'll trade you two long Turks for one of your Mexicans, sporterized or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montea6b Posted July 9, 2006 Report Share Posted July 9, 2006 or 4, or 8, or 16, or 32, or 64, or 128 or 256... So that's why you go by "Doble Troble"! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted July 10, 2006 Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 That would be Troble^2. But I bet that would be more appropriate! I seem to have a chain reaction on my hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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