DigginDave Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Is having a mauser action blue printed worth the extra money. I'm building a .257 Roberts and was wondering if it was worth the $130. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 It's hard to say. A job well done is certainly worth $130. I don't have as much experience as a lot of these guys, but I've never seen a Mauser where I noticed and egregious problem with the action being out of square. With that said, I face the receiver and lap the lugs of all the rifles I build. Because I think its fun, and because it won't bug me that I didn't do it later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomme boy Posted July 15, 2006 Report Share Posted July 15, 2006 If you can find someone to do a true blueprinting of an action for $130, do it. If you are talking about trueing the face of the rec., lapping the lugs, and squaring the face of the bolt, that is worth the $130. To have a true blue printed action, It is gong to cost at least $500 and up. There is a lot more that needs to be done to the action than what was mentioned to blue print it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted July 15, 2006 Report Share Posted July 15, 2006 Dave, You need to elaborate on what exactly this particular smith's notion of blueprinting is. If it invloves no more than truing the face, lapping lugs, and maybe lapping the boltface then likely not but that would also depend on what the going rate in that area is. I wouldn't call that blueprinting but it can help accuracy. As Tomee boy said, true blueprinting is far more involved. And to be honest. most wouldn't know how to go about Blueprinting a Mauser. The methods applied to the Rem 700 for example do not apply in full to the Mauser. Seeing as it is a .257 Bob my guess is that it will be a hunting rifle. More than what I mentioned above is not generally needed or warranted. It is much easier to just get a new receiver that is square. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911rat Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Though there are many more knowledgable than I, my only project so far (more in the works) shoots under 1 inch at 100. The only thing done to it was lug lapping to about 70% contact on both lugs and it has an inexpensive ER Shaw barrel. "Blueprinting" should make it more accurate but it's up to you if it's worth the money IMO. The ones I'm working on now will have the lugs and bolt face lapped and receiver face trued. Should be good enough as big game rifles for my needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Though there are many more knowledgable than I, my only project so far (more in the works) shoots under 1 inch at 100. The only thing done to it was lug lapping to about 70% contact on both lugs and it has an inexpensive ER Shaw barrel. "Blueprinting" should make it more accurate but it's up to you if it's worth the money IMO. The ones I'm working on now will have the lugs and bolt face lapped and receiver face trued. Should be good enough as big game rifles for my needs. I tend to agree, I use my rifles for hunting and shoot off the shoulder. All my rifles shoot more accurately than I can, including the ones with cheap barrels. Super accurancy is great if you need it. But save the money for more projects if you don't. -Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigginDave Posted July 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 Thanks for the replies. This is my first sporter, so perhaps "blueprint" was a strong term. Here is what the smith is offering: a) Face & True Front of Receiver $12.00 Re-cut inner barrel seat $30.00 c) Lap Bolt lugs & receiver locking recesses $45.00 d) True & lap bolt face $25.00 e) Retrace Threads $12.00 Total for all above $124.00 I own quite a few guns. Most are WW2 rifles, 3 Ithaca doubles and various other shotguns. Even a handful of muzzle loaders. But a while back, I picked up a tack driving Swede at a gun show. It was decked out with a sporter stock, bolt and was ready for a scope. I mounted a scope and just recently had the bolt jeweled. Need less to say, I'm in love. Now, I'd like to build one from the ground up, so I can sit back and say "I built that." I picked up a mint K98 action and installed a Timney trigger, low scope safety - the whole nine yards. Now comes the time to install a barrel. I've been researching and can't decide to have the above processes done. I'd hate to have the barrel installed and headspaced, only to come to the conclusion that I should have done it first. As someone guessed, it will be used for hunting. Thanks agian for the input, and feel free to add more replies. Mabey the above will help with whats going through my mind. I will try to figure out how to post pictures of my swede and action if anybody is interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomme boy Posted July 18, 2006 Report Share Posted July 18, 2006 If you are going to do it, have it done now. If you wait and have it done after you have the barrel set, and it does not shoot like you want, it is going to cost more. The barrel will more than likely have to be set back,and headspaced again, to take up the amount of material this is to be removed to true up the surfaces that are mentioned. That is not that bad of a price to have a smith do these opperations. Have it done, it will make a differance on how the gun will shoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted July 18, 2006 Report Share Posted July 18, 2006 Is this smith also cutting the threads on the barrel or is he just installing a pre-threaded barrel? When he says re-trace the threads does he mean single pointing them in a lathe or is he talking about running a 60 degree tap intop the receiver to "clean" up the 55 degree threads? I'd be interested to know how he plans to recut the inner barrel seat? How is he indicating it in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigginDave Posted July 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2006 Is this smith also cutting the threads on the barrel or is he just installing a pre-threaded barrel? When he says re-trace the threads does he mean single pointing them in a lathe or is he talking about running a 60 degree tap intop the receiver to "clean" up the 55 degree threads? I'd be interested to know how he plans to recut the inner barrel seat? How is he indicating it in? He says he has built a special jig that he uses to hold the action in his lathe and cuts the inner barrel seat to the rifles center of axis. I hope I said that right. He says he doesn't take off much. Gets it within .001". The treads are done on a lathe too. He said he'll take a series of measuement to see if my action would benefit first. It will be a pre-threaded barrel. Can't afford a Hart right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted July 23, 2006 Report Share Posted July 23, 2006 Ok, Sound slike a good value for the $$. But, if he is recutting the threds then a pre-threaded barrel will be a poor choice. Most have 60 degree threads and the receiver has 55. Additionally, recutting the threads makes them bigger. So, a prethreaded barrel will be undersized. Best bet is to furnish him a blank and let him cut the proper threads to match the receiver. Otherwsie the whole proces is for nought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 To add to Z's comments, there are inexpensive blanks available and also chambered barrels with no threads from companies like shaw. Threading a cheaper barrel would be a better choice than a pretheaded barrel, if you're going through the trouble of pointing up the threads. -Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mad_jack Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 Is this smith also cutting the threads on the barrel or is he just installing a pre-threaded barrel? When he says re-trace the threads does he mean single pointing them in a lathe or is he talking about running a 60 degree tap intop the receiver to "clean" up the 55 degree threads? I'd be interested to know how he plans to recut the inner barrel seat? How is he indicating it in? Same here, How is the breeching ring going to be recut? and I would cut my own threads with a 55 degree tool so as to match the threads in the reciever myself. Just me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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