flaco Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 Wowsers!!! After all these months, I'm ready for final placement of the barrel on project #1. Yes, that means I've blued the barrel and receiver. And they are gorgeous. Really, really great. So. The momentous moment has arrived. And I don't want to screw up the bluing on either the barrel or receiver. I have lead shims for the action wrench, and my barrel vise uses aluminum bushings. Both of these are softer than steel. Need I take any more precautions to avoid marring the finish? flaco And my great thanks to all the contributors here, for the entertainment, but, in particular, really good advice. And sometimes patience. LOL. (The "Wowsers!!! is for you, Karl. LOL.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batray Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 To be safe,I would put a piece of business card between the wrench and the receiver,and copy paper between the vise bushings.I've done this and have not had any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flaco Posted July 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 Hey Batray- Thanks. I got antsy, and already mounted the barrel for project # 2. There were just a couple of small blems, infinitesimal, but blems nonetheless. I'll take your advice for project #1, which I am commencing right now. It's not like the torque on the barrel will be anything near the torque necessary to take off an old barrel. flaco BTW, the bolt closes on a go gauge on project #2. This is really the moment of truth, isn't it? I know I was nervous. It may have taken just a little pressure at the end of the bolt's throw, but not too much... I expect. The receiver wasn't in a stock or anything that would provide a good grip, and I'm pretty much the pencil neck geek type. LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carzngunz Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 I also use business cards between the receiver and wrench. Never had any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 I have a brass shim I always use in the action wrench for removing & installing barrels. In the barrel vise, I use the aluminum bushings with rosin. You may get a small transfer of aluminum to the barrel but it will come right off with #0000 steel wool and oil. If you've done a good SLOW rust blue job you will not hurt it with AL bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clark Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 I can usually get all of the Alluminum from the bushing off the bluing on the barrel with Alcohol and a Q tip. I use Alcohol and a Kleenex before I put the barrel in the barrel vice bushing, to get the oil, grease, and dirt off, so the bushing can get traction. It is much easier to get the Alluminum off if there was no slipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riceone Posted July 26, 2005 Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 Is there a reason for blueing the receiver and barrell before putting them together. riceone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clark Posted July 26, 2005 Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 Is there a reason for blueing the receiver and barrell before putting them together. riceone No, but most of the barrels I take off have bluing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted July 26, 2005 Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 Is there a reason for blueing the receiver and barrell before putting them together. riceone No, but most of the barrels I take off have bluing. Yes, very good ones if you are rust bluing. Bluing the parts before assembly assures a clean action free of contaminents. You cannot guarantee that if you've lubed the threads then assembled. Also, joints will tend to show a ring of discolorization. Now, if you caustic blue, you can assemble first then blue but, the better smiths wil still blue the parts seperately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamp_thing Posted July 26, 2005 Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 z1r, Thanks for the information about why not to rust blue an assembled barrel and action. Not meaning to steal the post, but I was contemplating taking a shot at rust bluing on an old rifle of mine that simply needs to be blued. Maybe I had better re-think this plan. I had not considered the oil in the thread area prior to this. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobVZ Posted July 26, 2005 Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 I was able to overcome the discoloration by painting the joint with some nail polish(any lacquer would do) and wiping off the excess with acetone. After bluing, rinse the joint with acetone to remove the nail polish. I also use a barrel steamer which tends to minimize oil leakage vs boiling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted July 26, 2005 Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 I'm not sure i understand your painting the joint with laquer? Most of the discolorization is due to inability to properly card. I guess I cannot understand the desire to blue both parts assembled when it is easier to do them seperately. Especially since there is no risk of marring the finish if you use the proper tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flaco Posted July 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 z1r- BobVZ restores milsurps. I guess he can speak for himself, but I believe he takes actions/receivers and reblues them. Thus the efficacy of keeping the barrel on the receiver. flaco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mod70 Posted July 26, 2005 Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 Correct me if I'm wrong but assuming you did deal with the oil seepage problem by steaming out all oil/grease prior to bluing and, if one did not seal the barrel/receiver joint such as BobVZ mentioned, and then rust blued the entire assembly, would it not tend to rust weld the barrel to the receiver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flaco Posted July 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2005 mod70- It's a tragedy of life that all these wonderful old posts are lost. BobVZ, one of the most inspired alternative tool builders to post here, uses a beat up--okay, remodeled--old pot to steam his parts (barrels, etc.) rather than boiling them. flaco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted July 27, 2005 Report Share Posted July 27, 2005 I've been using detergent in my bluing solution (selenium-containing Selsun Blue - thanks for the tip, Z1R, it works very well) and in my hot wash to soften the rust (Our tap water comes-out of an old boiler system at 180 and works fine with Dawn dishwashing detergent added). I've gotten to the point that I don't even worry about gloves any more. The less I've worried about oil the better the results I've had. Use of real steel wool rather than ScotchBrite pads for carding has also helped. It's important to card to shiney after every pass. Don't worry about taking off the black. If it comes off with 000 steel wool, you don't want it. Parts come-out perfumed like the Dawn - it really gets in there. I'm planning to document my detergent-containing method next go round and will post. I think it is possible to rust blue without compete preoccupation with oil avoidance. But I AM a Bubba! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted July 27, 2005 Report Share Posted July 27, 2005 I'm planning to document my detergent-containing method next go round and will post. I think it is possible to rust blue without compete preoccupation with oil avoidance. DT, That would be one of the greatest contributions to the art in years; The possibility of rust bluing without compete preoccupation with oil avoidance. Then again, if everyone could do it, it wouldn't be so appealing would it? I've lost your formula but I'm sure you've improved nyway. I'd sure like a copy of your improved formula if it wouldn't be much trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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