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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Opinion Of Lothar Walther Mil Step Barrels


milsurpcollector

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milsurpcollector,

 

Before condemning your barrel, make sure other variables are accounted for-such as bedding. This is especially true if you have a RC mismatch gun. The action should be in even contact with the stock bottom inletting and not "spring" when you tighten the guard screws. The barrel should not bind in any way in the barrel channel. With the action tightened in the stock, you should be able to lift the muzzle with around 5 lbs of force clear of the barrel channel and when released, should "flop" back into the channel without the wood pressing against it. The handguard retainer ring bottom on the rear sight should clear the stock by at least 1mm. Finally, the magazine box should not contact the receiver bottom when fully tightened, but come within a few thousanths or .1 mm. The handguard should not touch the barrel at all, even under the lower band. Also, the barrel should not bind in the upper band. Spot and scrape/file any bind points. Try shooting without the handguard and upper band to see if this is a problem.

 

If the barrel has sharp bright rifling, in-spec bore, a good crown and is not bent it should shoot pretty good. Check your rear sight to make sure it is not loose and moving around under recoil too. I have seen plenty of excellent condition K-98 takeoff barrels for around $80 recently. I bought one a dozen years ago for $15 from a parts house that went under. It shoots 1 in groups all day with Rem 185 grain bullets and 46 grains of IMR 3031. I wish I had bought a dozen now! The Nazis made pretty good barrels. I believe they were cut rifled and machine lapped.

 

Bob

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