Ron J Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 Getting close to wrapping up the Turk receiver body. One real bad spot that is left is the rearmost surface edge of the rear ring. The square of the bolt handle had pushed a burr up on top which was removed, but is it okay to stone or file the back edge? This is so torn up it's hard to tell what it's supposed to look like! Also the follower has tear marks on the flats. I want to file / stone smooth, make sure it feeds, send along for heat treat and maybe jewel the top. Can I do this if I maintain original flats and angles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 Walnut, That receiver sounds like a candidate for rehardening. I don't think the bolt camming surfaces of the rear ring have any tricky angles, but I could be wrong. If it were me, I'd clean it up and think of making it hard. I have a Turk that is doing the same thing - the rear receiver ring is burring from the bolt camming. There's probably something not right on the front end making opening difficult. I haven't gotten around to really working on it to try to fix it. It's too bad because its otherwise a nice Turk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted January 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 It will be re-hardened for sure. Everything on it was way easy to file, stone or sand. It was case hardened although very spotty especially around the bolt lugs. You make a good point about whether opening stiffness is a cause though. This bolt is not the #match. I think the area of the bolt handle that touches there is supposed to be shaped a certain way also. I was just curious about the importance of the rear edge shape and size wise. Kuhnhausen's book notes max removal amounts on several surfaces but I didn't find anything about this area. Maybe I missed it. Will look again more closely and post if I find anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 There isn't much of a safety factor to anything you do on the rear bridge, so that isn't a real issue. But take a careful look at how the bolt handle moves along the the back of the rear bridge when you are cocking from the fired position. If you cut any too much the bolt won't drag on the top of the bridge and you will lose the extra leverage it provides to free an expanded case. I don't know of any real tolerances, just the smoothness of the action. You shouldn't have to pull back on the bolt to cock, you should just lift, the bridge should pust the bolt back the small amount need to pop the case free of the chamber. If that makes any sense? -Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted January 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Makes perfect sense. Thank you. I never fired this thing, but opening it slowly, it does not touch. I think it does if you open as you would without being so carefull. I'll clean a minimum and leave it. Just frosts my nads leaving visual hacked up machining marks. I see why Z puts Turks on a milling machine - they're tough to make look nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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