tinkerfive Posted November 21, 2007 Report Share Posted November 21, 2007 OK I've learned that the gun I purchased was manufactured in Germany by Herman Weihrauch and the model is the Windicator. German for Vindicator? That's the background stuff. I want to re-barrel it from a snub nosed pocket carry to a 'hunter' with an 8" or more barrel. I found that the twist rate should be about 18. Anyone got 8" to a foot of such .357 barrel laying around? There is 'freebore' getting the bullet from the cylinder to the barrel. Why is the breech end of the barrel funneled for almost another .25"? Are they allowing for the cylinder not to align each time? I measured the barrel grooves at .356 with my calipers. The Remingnton ammo on the box and head-stamp both say .357 Magnum. SOoooooooooooooooo. Why am I measuring the bullet at .345? Tinker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzRednek Posted November 21, 2007 Report Share Posted November 21, 2007 Tinker I’ve got to give you credit for taking on what I view as a real challenging or near impossible project. I’m far from being an expert on revolvers and I don’t know the quality of your Vindicator. I do know some cheaply made revolvers use a crush fit installing the barrel. They screw the barrel in almost all the way, then using a press, press or crush the barrel into the frame. Making removal difficult and likely the need to re-thread the frame. I can’t say with a certainty if it is done on centerfire revolvers. From what I’m told it is common on 22's. Sorry I can’t help you with the barrel. J&G was selling numerous S&W barrels. Possibly by re-threading the frame, barrel or both you could possibly put something together. In the 80's a friend of mine had a Colt single action re-barreled. The local smith got the un-threaded barrel from McGowen. Since Harry McGowen retired I don’t know if the new owner sells handgun barrels or not. "There is 'freebore' getting the bullet from the cylinder to the barrel. Why is the breech end of the barrel funneled for almost another .25"? Are they allowing for the cylinder not to align each time?" I don’t know if that is normal tolerances or not. Have you compared it with a modern Ruger or S&W?? Seems to me the forcing cones I’ve had to de-lead were at least that long. "I measured the barrel grooves at .356 with my calipers." My 357/9mm Ruger Blackhawk convertible slugged at .356 and a S&W model 27 I used to have measured at 357.5. The S&W was pretty old, well used and may have worn the .5. The best bet is to slug the barrel to get an accurate bore size. "The Remingnton ammo on the box and head-stamp both say .357 Magnum. SOoooooooooooooooo. Why am I measuring the bullet at .345?" That really puzzles me!! Have you removed the bullet and measured the base?? I’ve miked factory slugs before, can’t say I’m certain I’ve done a Remmy 357 but I’ve never seen one that far off. Anyhow good luck with the project, sure wish I could offer some useful advice but your project is one I certainly don’t have the skills or know-how for. Some of the work I’ve seen accomplished in this group I would have said was near impossible or more trouble than what its worth. Guess it is the pride and bragging rights of a completed project that makes it worthwhile. I know Swampie sure fooled me completeing his spring project. I'll be looking forward to your progrss reports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamprat Posted November 21, 2007 Report Share Posted November 21, 2007 That funnel at the breech end of the barrel is the forcing cone all revolvers have it. Swamprat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted November 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2007 Thanks fellas In the mean time I found that Neumerich has barrels reasonable enough. The next step will be to get the barrel off. Making a barrel vice is simple enough. Anyone got any advice on an action / frame wrench? This will take a bit of thought. Tinker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert01 Posted November 22, 2007 Report Share Posted November 22, 2007 just be careful not to warp the frame here a pic for some inspiration Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byates Posted November 22, 2007 Report Share Posted November 22, 2007 Might be of interest http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=22 Article on Windicator imported by EAA and at the end: UPDATE (09/23/2002): Durability After around 2000rds, still running good....BUT.. I found the weakness. The front cylinder catch is engaged via a slot in the ejecter, when the rear engagement 'button' is depressed (while sliding in or pressing the release) it lines up a slot in the ejecter rod with a catch built into the frame. This works fine for .38 and .38+P probably a bit higher. This weekend I fired 12rds of 'American' (I think, made by federal) high velocity 158gr copper jacket flat point. These are pretty stiff, probably right in the end of .357 range..quite a kick. Well, 12rds of that beat up the ejecter rod enough that I couldn't release the cylinder without a bit of a whack. A couple of seconds with a fine diamond file and everything was back to normal. No excessive cylinder 'slop' or anything. But it does mean that this gun is relagated to IDPA use only, handles those loads all day. I think it's time to revise my 'would I buy another one'. At this point, maybe. In light of the power handling (or lack thereof), I have a feeling I'll wear this gun out after 10k rounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted November 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2007 Bob Thanks, I should have an 8000 round cushion then Same ugly muzzle cut. Same ejector pin issue is why I got it for $50 ( some assembly required ). Tinker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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