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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Large Ring 98 Action Wrench


rdfrench31

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Looking at the pics of the ones online, they look pretty beefy. What thickness plate steel is adequate? Looks to be an inch or better.

 

I'm in my PJ's so I ain't going out to the shop to measure. But, a mauser front ring is close to 1 3/4" long. So, the width of the wrench over the ring should be somwhere near but certainly no less than 1". The ring itself measures approx 1.410" I'd cut my wrench for that because it is on the large side of the scale and a shim of .005" to .010" brass is what I use to prevent marring the receiver. Beefy is good.

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drawing of how to make an action wrench from MacFarland Book

 

pic of how my action wrench builds improved over time.

 

What I learned was that there is place on the Mauser where the large ring is over flat bottom behind the recoil lug. The action bolts should be in this same plane. This can be accomplished by cutting a relief in the face of the wrench to allow the action to slide into the wrench deeper. Without this trick there is a bind on the bolt threads that makes them hard to turn and get beat up a little and some bluing gets rubbed off the receiver.

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Check out Steve Wagner's site.

 

My first action wrench was a "U" bolt and a piece of 1/4" flat steel.

Steve recommends a piece of angle.

I have bent the flat steel on the tighter fit barrels.

I have a parts bender and a mandrel that was just about the same OD as

the front ring.

 

Tinker

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i built mine from a piece of 2 1/2 x 1/4" angle iron about 2 feet long, the u-bolt from a 1 1/2" muffler clamp & a small peice of 1/8"x1" strap. i used a 4 1/.2" angle grinder to make the cutout for the recoil lug then cleaned it up with a file. i forged the 1/8x1" flatbar around a socket i had that was the same size as a lr receiver then welded it to the u-bolt. it worked well for about 4 times then i broke the u-bolt on a realy tough barrel. when the ubolt broke it also slightly bent the action wrench where the receiver sits, the receiver wasn't damage. i filed it back flat then added a second u-bolt , the second ubolt is from a 3" muffler clamp so i could have then close together & still have room to get the nuts on the u-bolts. i also welded a peice of 2x2x1/2" plate to the bottom of the wrench to make the area under the receiver more rigid. if you were to make the cutout for the recoil lug on the other side of the angle iron it would be much stiffer but you have to put the u-bolt farther back on the receiver ring.

 

actionwrench.jpg

actionwrench1.jpg

 

i don't have any pictures of it after i added the second u-bolt

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hi jim, never seen one done like that before. Looks interestin' though. what counts is when it does the job at hand. I bought mine from midway. my barrel vise is the split blocks of wood between 2 steel plate in a vise. works for me. I just might try to copy your design to build one for my father in law, if you don't mind. looks cool. Dave

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Hi Jim. That would be cool. We got a lotta steel stuff here at work so materials would not be a problem. Even have some ss

also. I like your design . Straight to the point and simple. Looking forward to the pics. Dave

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here is a drawing that gives the diminsions for the cutout & the holes for the u-bolts.

actionwrenchdrawing.jpg

 

i started the recoil lug cutout about 3" from the end of the angle iron & the u-bolts used will determin the exact width for the holes as they vary a bit from one brand to the next but these mesurments should be neough to get you going. the u-bolts will also be to long to tighten down without some type of shim behind them thats about 1/2" thick, at first i just used a couple of 1/2 nuts as washers but now i have a peice of 2x2x1/2" plate welded to the underside of the wrench

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