Brenden Posted August 10, 2008 Report Share Posted August 10, 2008 Hey guyes. Been working on my project a little bit and ran into a problem. I bought a FN style shroud for my bolt and also replaced the spring with a 24 pound spring. I elected to go back to the military spring because of the ease to work with. But, heres the problem. The shroud fits fine and everything is smooth as butter, but darn if i can hardly get the bolt open after the cocking piece moves foward, like if it was to fire. I've been thinking about going to a comerical cocking piece for ease of take down, (insert a 1/16 punch into the retaining hole to hold cocking piece back). But what is causing the bolt to open so hard after de-cocking? Like i say, i'm still a rookie be gentle Brenden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted August 10, 2008 Report Share Posted August 10, 2008 What else did you do to the bolt? First thing that comes to mind is that the cocking cam on the rear of the bolt got soft. The stiffer spring would hasten wear. If the bolt shroud screws in easily then there is very little it could contribute to hard lift. Look to the cocking piece or bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted August 10, 2008 Report Share Posted August 10, 2008 Also check the cocking piece to shroud fit, alot of the no safety type shroud need polishing on the inside to prevent excessive drag. Polish the inside until bright and check again. I'd go back to a 19 or 22# spring 24# is kind of an overkill if everything fits properly without binding. Other test for checking the fit of the guts is to assemble with out the spring and put it in the fired position, the pin and cp should slide back and fourth with ease. -Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brenden Posted August 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2008 I fiddled some more with it, tried just putting the guts in it w/out the spring, which reduced bolt up lift a considerable amount. I'm back to the military spring now, ditched the 24# er. I noticed something when i tried it a while ago. The spring loaded stop that goes into the shroud, seems like it was dragging badly when the bolt was closed, so i removed it and installed the guts and mainspring back in and my hunch was correct. The stop is hindering uplift, but even with out its still pretty tough. i'll polish and go back and check for burs. Nothing has been done to this bolt, i've got a few extra bolts so i'll see how they do. Thanks. Brenden edit: i tried this shroud on my Model 50 Fn, and same results, something seems to be binding inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brenden Posted August 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2008 well now that i've polished it all to hell and back. It works, but i'm not seeing why i had so much trouble before hand. Before i polished it, it was so hard to lift from the reciever, i mean locked up tighter than a nun. I had to place it in my barrel vise and gentaly tap it with a hammer. So i polished it some more, smoothed up my cocking piece, and worked it in the reciever, all guts attached. Worked fine for about 10 passes, then it locked up big time. Back to the vise. I ended up putting some 3 in 1 oil on the cocking piece sear, and presto works just fine. My cocking piece is hanging up on something. My reciver is a 798 remington (i know i know), so my question is, should i go to a comercial CP, or what. Is my CP setting deeper causing the problems? I tried my Obendorf bolt in the remington reciever and it even seems to stick more than i like. I don't know. Think i'll just go to bed Brenden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradD Posted August 11, 2008 Report Share Posted August 11, 2008 Hmmm, this is an area I tinker in a bit and your problem sounds familiar. I'm tending to go with Mike on this. I think something got soft. Probably the cam on your bolt. Once you wear out the case hardening and you get to the softer steel everything drags. Try a lightweight hardening with Casenit on the bb cam and LIGHTLY polish it. Get all your engagements done and surfaces polished first then harden. Other than that I would guess your engagement angles don't match well enough to move smoothly. Brad well now that i've polished it all to hell and back. It works, but i'm not seeing why i had so much trouble before hand. Before i polished it, it was so hard to lift from the reciever, i mean locked up tighter than a nun. I had to place it in my barrel vise and gentaly tap it with a hammer. So i polished it some more, smoothed up my cocking piece, and worked it in the reciever, all guts attached. Worked fine for about 10 passes, then it locked up big time. Back to the vise. I ended up putting some 3 in 1 oil on the cocking piece sear, and presto works just fine. My cocking piece is hanging up on something. My reciver is a 798 remington (i know i know), so my question is, should i go to a comercial CP, or what. Is my CP setting deeper causing the problems? I tried my Obendorf bolt in the remington reciever and it even seems to stick more than i like. I don't know. Think i'll just go to bed Brenden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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