Limpid Lizard Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 What should I expect to pay for a clean, pit free action? I am thinking of my next build and think a lighter rifle might be the way to go this time. LL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 Costs are all over the place. Finding one at all can be difficult. When you find one make sure it is complete since bolts, firing pins and extractors are hard to find and/or expensive. 36's generally cost more than 10's because of the cocking piece. Of course you would want to use a 36 cocking piece on a lightweight rifle, so send it my way. I'll swap it with a 1910 one, even throw in couple bucks toward your build. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 What are you willing to pay, that's the real question. Finding these SR Mexicans in non-pitted condition is a challenge. Even harder is finding an unmolested action. The '36's don't come up very often compared to the 1910 model which is also fairly scarce. I've paid anywhere from $100 to $400. The $100 example was sold as a 95 and came with a Redfield Receiver sight. I quietly ponied up the C-note and walked away. the seller had a huge grin on his face thinking he got the best of me, lol. I paid $400 for one cuz I wanted it now, not in 10 months after scouring the various guns shows and internet sites. I figured my time was worth more. Besides, I like to be able to physically inspect the action first. Unless you luck into one my take is that these days, based on what I see the actions selling for, $350 is a good price and $400 the ceiling. That said, I just sold one for $500. I had one spare and didn't really want to get rid of it. But the buyer really wanted it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limpid Lizard Posted January 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 Don, I know where several and a box of parts are. I just am curious about where I should start dickering. LL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limpid Lizard Posted January 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 Seeing what z wrote, I should buy the lot. LL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 If the price is right get the whole lot. You can always sell off what you don't use to pay for what you do. That's how I try to pay for my projects. I'll take 2 cocking pieces, see you have a sale already. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limpid Lizard Posted January 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 A friend died, and his estate is being sold off. I stood there and argued that the prices were too low, and I was told that they had thousands of actions to sell, and it would take forever holding out for a higher price. I bought a very nice Siamese complete for 75, and a Charles Daly standard bolt face action with what looks to be Argie bottom metal for 100. When I say dickering, I am thinking I have to dicker up. I did not feel too bad about the Siamese or the Daly as I understand they want to get rid of the stuff, and I don't have a use for either, but I thought the Mexican's were too cheap. I feel guilty buying them at the price they are asking. I have an option on the lot at the price they are asking, but I think I need to throw in extra cash. LL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldora Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 I have one of these, at least I think that's what it is. I'll try to get a picture or two in the next few days. Since I'm certainly no expert, maybe you guys can help me determine exactly what it is. I'd like suggestions for suitable calibers, etc. Picked it up at a show a couple of years ago, action only for $65. Some light pitting but I believe it will polish out fine once I get around to starting on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldora Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 [atta chment=1108:mex_mauser_bottom.JPG]OK, here it is if I can figure out how to get the pictures in. Definitely a small ring. Just under the wood line above the recoil lug it is stamped CAL ST ALB VT. Left side, same location PV with a proof mark that looks like a "sun" or maybe a bomb. Crest is almost gone but here is what I can see: MEXICO (bottom of the circle) FABRICA NACIONAL DE (left side and top of arc). That's all I can make out. Bolt is not numbered to the action. Very light pitting overall but I believe it will polish out w/o a lot of trouble. Machined non-hinged bottom metal. What do I have here? I paid $65 a couple of years ago exactly as you see it. I'm thinking maybe .257 Roberts. May be another year or two before I get around to the project anyway. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojelio Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 That would be a 1910 mexican mauser. I think a 257 R would be just about ideal for your action. Rojelio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limpid Lizard Posted January 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 Pretty much any thing built on a X57 case would be nice. 7X57, 257 Roberts, 6mm Remington. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsefly Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 6.5x55 is my favorite in that class of cals. Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldora Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Thanks guys. I already have a 7X57 that I built on a Polish LR '98 4 years ago. In fact, I'm freshening up the checkering and stock finish as a winter project over the next few days or weeks as time permits. I'll try to post a couple of pictures when it's finished. I certainly don't need another rifle (I have 5 centerfire already) but you know how it is! Just curious; how can you tell the difference in this one and a 1936 just by looking? I plan to go to the Winston-Salem gun show next weekend. You never can tell what will turn up. I've watched a lot of your comments about the 6.5X55 over the last year or two. Never had one so I'll sure give that suggestion some thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 The 1910 doesn't have the vent hole in the side of the receiver that the 36 does. The 36's bolt also has a notch in it to match with the hole in the side of the receiver and a hole in the extractor. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limpid Lizard Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 If you know how many you have, you have too few. LL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldora Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Agreed! I'll show your comment to the "Commander-in-Chief". Actually, I have a great wife. She doesn't really care too much what I do (gun-wise, that is) as long as everything else is covered. She just got her CC permit and carries a Kel-Tec PF9. Pretty cool gal! Thanks, Don. Good information to have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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