Fn Mauser Stock Modifications

[Bob58]

I took my first rough steps. I tapered the cheekpiece from back to front and lowered the top line and overall lightened it. I stopped and gave myself some time to figure out how to do the flutes and comb. That grip is really looking long with the cheekpiece smaller and with protective red duct tape. I may have lowered the comb a hair too much but I wanted it to work away from my cheek in recoil. Any suggestions on flute and comb are appreciated. So far, so good. Can't wait to whack off that grip. Yikes!

[BradD]

Bob, I like what I'm seeing. I think what you have done so far has added some grace to it and if you keep working that way it should come together nicely in the end.

 

The last pic, from the rear was interesting. While the comb should melt into the buttstock, you should look at it as though it was rolled out out on a bread pan, smoothed and evened and laid over the bs. So I would suggest bringing down the bottom of the comb some to more approach the thickness of the upper part. The lower part is not used at all so only esthetics are of concern here. I would not shoot for the same thickness, but less of the difference.

 

I like that particular shadow line, I didn't notice it before. I would preserve it and just assure that it is smooth, sharp and flows without wobble or variations in it's thickness.

 

If you only do one part at a time you will find yourself doing four or five different stocks at the same place. I know you want to get your eye fairly comfortable with what you have done so far, but all the parts need to work in concert. So, don't consider any one part done until you have seen it next to the next nearly finished part. Start on the grip soon, before you feel that you have finished the bs. If your eye is looking at all the stock it will work them together, as it should be. That will also tend to slow you down from going overboard on one spot and regretting it.

 

Remember you want the forearm to look like it is part of the same stock as the buttstock. So don't feel like you are being squirrely if you move back and forth. If you work your way around the whole stock it will all get there at the same time.

 

One other item on the cheeckpiece. This is one place where the line needs to be sharp - between the flat of the cp and the radius down to the buttstock. Keep it as sharp as you can, don't round it at all. It is a breaking point that defines the whole cheeckpiece and it should be bold. Be careful when finishing that you don't damage it's prominence. The sharp breaking line, as with the shadow line should, at each end, dissolve into the butstock, but be strong getting there in between.

 

As to that ready to retire butt pad, my rule (although I have violated it when my eye, or my wife, told me better) is that if I am using African ebony or or even a wood that is prominently black like the Madagascar ebony or African wenge, I go with a black pad. If however, I am using rosewood or another non-predominently black wood then I go with the dark red pad. Red pad, black tips, no good. Black pad, red tips, no good.

 

Keep us updated. This is fun to watch.

 

By the way thanks for the reimbursement. Wasn't necessary, but thanks for the going to the trouble.

 

Brad

[Bob58]

... The last pic, from the rear was interesting. While the comb should melt into the buttstock, you should look at it as though it was rolled out out on a bread pan, smoothed and evened and laid over the bs. So I would suggest bringing down the bottom of the comb some to more approach the thickness of the upper part. The lower part is not used at all so only esthetics are of concern here. I would not shoot for the same thickness, but less of the difference.

 

 

Brad

 

Brad,

 

I thinkyou may have meant "So I would suggest bringing down the bottom the CHEEKPIECE some to more approach the thickness of the upper part." See the first pic with the yellow line shaving some thickness from the bottom of the cheekpiece - is that what you are suggesting?

 

Also, in the second photo in blue, are my next steps: 1) shorten the grip and eventually install a grip cap, 2) bring the comb back, positioned over the middle of the shortened grip cap, and slightly "concave" the top of the grip, 3) PERHAPS, if there is enough meat, open the grip by shaving some of the front, and 4) slightly soften the pitch and eventually install a solid black recoil pad.

[BradD]

Re the cheekpiece, yes that's what I was thinking. However, go slow and check often. You may or may not want to go that much. Just enough to ameliorate to profound difference between heights. Some difference is expected. Only do enough to calm it.

 

Before you cut the pg off at that angle, try cutting it square (90 degree) to the flow of the pg. I may be wrong, but I don't think you would like that angle. If you cut it square first and still want the angle you can still do it.

 

I think you are going the right way on reducing the front of the cp and adding some drop for your thumb on the top of the wrist. That's going to be a thumb and eye project working together. Of course that is going to completely change the nose (front) of the cheekpiece and how the cheekpiece and shadowline melt back into the buttstock. Keep a close watch on how that is going as you progress.

 

I've tried all kinds of pitches on the pad of the buttstock, both positive and negative. There's all kinds of opinions about what is best for recoil management and natural shouldering. All are valid to some degree in each of their own situations. However, after 40 years of cutting off buttstocks, I've found 90 degrees to the bore line works best for me. It looks to me what you are wanting to do. I think you'll find you will be happy with that. Also, if you feel you need it, you can add a bit of cast off and it won't be visible. It takes very very little. No more than an 1/8th" more on the right side than the left, maybe even less. You'll have to feel your way through that and you may not want to try it.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Brad

[Bob58]

... Before you cut the pg off at that angle, try cutting it square (90 degree) to the flow of the pg. I may be wrong, but I don't think you would like that angle. If you cut it square first and still want the angle you can still do it...

 

Brad

 

 

Square like the green line -

 

 

[BradD]

Yes, like that. You might even want to bring the front end of the green line down a tiny bit more. Also if you cut it off at that location you will need to rasp away some of the belly of the bs to re-establish the grip (I think). So if you're not wanting to do that maybe take off a little less and look at it. Also be sure you're leaving enough of the original grip that your fingers are comfy when holding it and not hanging off the bottom. Nothing worse than a pg that's too small.

 

Brad

[BradD]

Hi Bob,

 

Mike (z1r) and I were talking about your project off the thread. He pointed out a couple things I thought I would pass on to you.

 

Re the pitch, Mike indicated that he likes a bit of pitch in the direction it currently goes (negative), whereas I indicated that I have come to prefer 90 degree. It is good that he mentioned it, because none of us are built the same and none of us shoot the same. Throw the current configuration to your shoulder several times with your eyes shut and see where it is pointing when you open your eyes. Is it dead on when you look, or pointing slightly up or down from the target. Adjust pitch accordingly. And how does it feel, natural or something you need to adjust each time you shoulder it?

 

Mike indicated that he also liked the thickness of the cheekpiece to be thinner at the top near the comb and be thicker at the bottom of the cp as we had discussed. And of course that is correct too. My preference is that the difference, while obvious when looked at, be as subtle as possible. The taper that will be right on your cheekpiece will be the one that makes your eyeballs happy.

 

Don't take anything I suggest as gospel, just suggestions. If you like what you see when you're done, we are all going to like it.

 

Brad

[Ron J]

This thread is going to one that I end up printing and filing away. Lots of good stuff coming up here.

[z1r]

As Brad says, ultimately we undertake this kind of work to please OURSELVES. Much of stockwork is toward functional ends. But just as much is for aethetics.

 

A story about pitch. I have a real nice Ruger tang saftey 77 chambered in 9.3x62. I did some repair work on it for a client on it and in the meantime he came upon a rifle he HAD to have. Long story short, I picked it up for a good price. Now, I've shot plenty of 9.3's and given that this one weighs 8.5 lbs scoped and is about a lb heavier than my 9.3x62 Mauser which has a steel buttplate, I expected this to be relatively pleasant to shoot. Three shots at the bench and I passed it off to a friend who completed the sight in with three shots of his own. After three shots each we wanted nothing more to do with it. We were both scratching our heads because we knew the recoil shouldn't have been so bad. A few days later I was talking to a stockmaker friend of mine who asked if it had the factory recoil pad or a replacement. I answered, a replacement, a thicker pad. Then he asked if the the butt had been cut to accomodate the thicker pad and maintain the original LOP. I answered that it appeared to have been. So he tells me to check the pitch. I do, there's none. It was cut at 90 degrees to the bore. He says, there's your problem. The toe is digging into your muscle when you fire. he askled if I noticed the muzzle climbing after I fired. I told him my partner mentioned it did. Anyway, I correct the angle, and voila, the tiger has been tamed.

 

So, while you may prefer a straight comb and little drop for scope use, you may want to incorporate some pitch into the stock. A lot depends on your build.

[Ron J]

Not to hijack here, but I have a Ruger #1 in .375 H&H that beats me to death. I can do maybe 10-12 handloads and I'm done. Enough pain that you can't pull the thing tight to your shoulder when you shoot it. I haven't tried it since I put a 1" decelerator on it, but I didn't think about pitch at all. I just cut a little off parallel to the existing surface. I gotta check this. It also will jump right out of the rest if you don't hold down the forend. It's better standing than on a bench, but only a little!!!

[Bob58]

... So, while you may prefer a straight comb and little drop for scope use, you may want to incorporate some pitch into the stock. A lot depends on your build.

 

 

According to Sterling Davenport's book The Gun Digest Book of Riflesmithing pitch for a non-magnum, when measured on a 24 inch barrel should be 2-3.5 inches (page 200); and no more than 2.5 inches for magnums. I'll "shoot" for the middle of the recommended pitch for non-magnums (308win).

 

I took the recoil pad off last night and also shortened the grip. The pad was glued on!! I'll be shaping and attaching the grip cap tonight. Pictures to follow when available.

[BradD]

Some of us are tall, some have green eyes and some are Irish. The pitch that works is the one to run with.

 

I'm a 90 degree guy and that doesn't prescribe anything for anyone else. Close your eyes and throw it up to a predetermined target and see where it points. That will determine the right pitch FOR YOU for THAT RIFLE. If it hurts when you you shoot it then it's back to the miter saw. Don't wait until it's finished to check this. All the steps go along together and it's not finished until all of it is finished.

 

Our satellite is kaput and I can barely communicate with this laptop and dial up, so my verbosity will be restrained for a bit.

 

Brad

[Bob58]

I've made some rough progress. The photos attached show both my progress and next steps simultaneously

Progress:

• shortened the grip,
• installed a walnut grip cap,
• filed off the checkering,
• removed the recoil pad,and
• stripped the finish.

 

Right Side/Next Steps / Concerns (first picture)

• Red line shows the original poor angle on lower, back grip that defines the grip too narrowly versus the more desirable green line that broadens the definition of the grip - nothing I can do about that but live with it,
• Blue line shows the original flute pointing down and toward the middle of the stock. the yellow line defines the more desirable flute line pointing to the toe. This angle is more correct and true to the angle of your thumb as it resides against the stock. I'll be defining a new, slightly larger flute toward the toe. It'll probably accept my thumb better.
• Orangish lines at grip cap indicate a more a refined bevel which will "lighten" the cap. I'm not removing any thicknes, just bevelling.

 

Left Side/Next Steps / Concerns (fourth picture)

• Also included is a picture of the left side with a single yellow line defining the left flute angle. I'm challenged by the flute on this side. I kinda like it's current appearance without a flute and a little chicken to dive in and create one. There are so many intersecting lines here. I need to think about that side.

I've ordered a Pachmayr Decelarator pad. Brad D I'll be using your matching pieces on a future project; the third piece you provided was too narrow for use here. I''ll also use it in the future.

 

For comparison a couple original pictures are also attached (second and third pictures). Is there a trick to getting these pictures in the right order? I'm out of ideas on that cunundrum.

[BradD]

It's shaping up nicely, Bob.

 

On the left side pic, were you thinking of taking some of the cheekpiece material off below the yellow line in order to change the flute angle?

 

That piece of Madagascar ebony was just a scrap I wanted you to see as another option for caps. I don't think it could be useable. The two pieces of African wenge were for your next project.

 

Brad

[machinist1]

Bob58,

I'll throw in my 2 cents. As far as the left side flute, I would not do it. The flute to clear the right thumb will look good. Just my opinion.

Bob

[Bob58]

... On the left side pic, were you thinking of taking some of the cheekpiece material off below the yellow line in order to change the flute angle? ...

Brad

 

Bob58,

I'll throw in my 2 cents. As far as the left side flute, I would not do it. The flute to clear the right thumb will look good. Just my opinion.

Bob

 

Brad, The yellow line would be the angle of the proposed left-side flute. I was not suggesting any further changes to the cheekpiece other than perhaps super-imposing a flute on it.

 

Bob, (machinist1), I think you're probably right. There is no need for the flute on the left, just the cheekpiece. It looks fine as modified. Don't want to fix what is not broke especially if I'm reluctant.

 

I'm thinking I'll just slightly enlarge and change the angle of the right flute, bevel the grip cap, do some overall sanding and not make any further stock modifications. Next steps will be to clean up the end of the buttstock (clean cut, 3" pitch?), install a recoil pad, re-checker, apply the finish, then call it a project.

 

All that being said, I would still appreciate others' opinions on any element of this project and I still have plenty left to do.

[BradD]

Bob, I'm thinking Machinist1's advice was pretty solid. I was wondering how that was going to work. It could be done by raising the bottom cp line from middle to front which would entail new radius and shadow line. Doable but would be a little risky since it's hard to tell where it would go. Like you say, probably didn't need fixin'. You could always come back later if it's bugging you and do it another time.

 

I was wondering about your length of pull when you cut the butt. An old adage is that you hold your trigger hand arm with a right agle bend at the elbow, hand straight out and trigger finger bent at right angle to your hand. Measure the distance from the inside of yout trigger finger to the inside of your elbow and that will give you proper length of pull.

 

You know, that sort of works, but it isn't totally accurate all the time because, well, we're not all built the same and don't all bend the same. For instance, I'm a bit on the lanky side. By that technique I have a 14 1/2" LOP. Rarely have I ever had a rifle with that LOP be comfortable to me or shoulder well. I generally have found my confort zone at 13 3/4".

 

My point here being, check yours and see what it might be, see how much wood you can spare at the rear and then be conservative. This is one where two cuts might be better than one if you have enough wood to do it. Would also give you a chance to feel that pitch in real life. If there's not enough wood to take more than one shot, then good luck, you seem to be very thoughtful on this as you go and I'm sure you'll do fine.

 

Brad