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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

magnum bolt face


smallcaljunkie

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for those of you stuck on the outlying planets, the trick is to bang the rock together.

 

For those wanting a magnum bolt face, the trick is to cut off the bolt handle. put the body in the lathe, and attack with carbide bits.

 

Then open up the bottom so there is only 180 degrees of magnum bolt face circle.

 

Then weld on an new handle.

 

 

 

 

 

I just got the thing to feed at 4:00 a.m. this morning:(

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Clark, I want to put an 8x57 barrel in a 95M Steyr action. How can I close up the bolt face for the rimless cartridge. Would it be feasable to tig weld a rim around the face then machine it out for the rimless case? riceone.

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This is a great question and I hope you get a good answer.

 

I screwed-up a bolt face opening it up and would like to add materal back to the face to try again. I've been thinking in-terms of a layer of silver solder that I think can be applied without cooking the front lugs by keeping them wrapped in a wet rag.

 

I've also considered just slathering on some Marine-Tex epoxy which would probably work but is an approach that belongs on the Red Green show - couldn't show that kind of work off. The silver solder might not look much better.

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Page 55 of Walsh shows how to TIG weld up a Mauser bolt face to get rid of corrosive primer leakage pits.

 

My guess is that if you can weld up the pits, you can weld up the rim.

 

When welding on the bolt, use welder's paste, a heat sind, and/or a wet towel to keep the rest of the bolt cool. As soon as you are done welding, dunk the part of the bolt that is supposed to be cool in the water, leaving the hot part out.

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Machining a press fit rim or one soft soldered is the way to go. Real silver solder is hot enough to draw the steel.

 

In school we welded off center firing pin holes and pitted bolt faces all the time, however, we also sent them out for heat treating (carbon augmentation) afterward.

 

Isn't the boltface on the M95 a seperate piece? If so, weld it up and get it heat treated.

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  • 3 months later...
Machining a press fit rim or one soft soldered is the way to go.  Real silver solder is hot enough to draw the steel.

 

In school we welded off center firing pin holes and pitted bolt faces all the time, however, we also sent  them out for heat treating (carbon augmentation) afterward.

 

Isn't the boltface on the M95 a seperate piece?  If so, weld it up and get it heat treated.

4538[/snapback]

 

 

ZR1 know of any good heat reat companies

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Blanchards Steel Treating in Salt Lake City....I don't have the number on hand but search the net they're easy to find or search the archieves. Spec4 has been in contact with them recently.

 

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