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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Getting Realy Close/ To Sand Or Not To Sand.


rdm1962

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O.K. I've been working on this Turk 35 Whelen for over a year now. Between my ADD (keep getting side tracked on other toys) and haveing to save up for parts it has taken this long.

 

I picked up a stock from Richards Micro fit on their summer clearance sale. I have gotten the action inlayed and barrel free floated. My question is consrening fit on the trigger guard. When the action is in the stock and the trigger guard seated aginst the action there is a large lip around the trigger guard. I don't realy know how to driscribe it but the stock is too large in this area. Is this normal for their stock to be "thick"? Should I just sand and finish off the stock so it will be flush with the trigger guard? Should I seat the trigger guard and action flush with the stock without sanding? Glass bed them in their flush location? The pictures are of the action and trigger guard seated aginst each other.

 

I realy don't want to jump in and start sanding. Yuo can't add wood back on later.

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First of all, it appears that the action is not fully down into the stock. The action should sit down into the stock, so that the receivers rails are at least flush with, and preferably slightly below the level of the stock. Also check the barrel. The barrel should sit down into the barrel channel at least half the diameter of the barrel. You may need to inlet/deepen the receiver/action area and barrel channel more.

Richards stocks sometimes are inletted a bit off. Yours may be shallow inletted on the top, and inletted to deep on the bottom. All of which is fixable.

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As Sailormilan suggusted it looks as the top is not inlet deep enough, most noticably at the rear tang. I would get the topside down to where it needs to be and then bed the top and bottom with a stock bushing before removing the excess wood on the bottom. I have never seen a semi intlet that didn't have excess wood around the bottom.

Don

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Thnanks for the help. I actualy have another Turk action (next project) that I will use as a "gauge". When it seats properly then I will make sure the Whelen seats with the barrel attached. I'll update soon.

Ralph

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I have always inletted the trigger guard first on Mausers. At least that's the way I was taught years ago. Get it down to where you want it making sure it seats flat so it doesn't rock. Then start on tha action, working slowly, keeping an eye on everything, ie... tang, magazine rails, recoil lug and barrel channel. Work the action down until the rails are very close and have your rear guard ferrule in place so you can check the fit there. Use some inletting screws, if you have them and inletting black or carbon paper. I use a rubber mallet. to tap the action to emboss the carbon paper.

 

Secret is go slow... take wood off in small increments and continually test fit.

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I took the other action I have and worked on the in letting. Without a barrel attached there are less "parts" to get in line. The front of the reciver was realy high and so was the tang. I worked on it for a few hours this afternoon and it is much closer. Uncle Grinch thanks for the carbon paper/ mallet idea I'll give it a try.

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I took the other action I have and worked on the in letting. Without a barrel attached there are less "parts" to get in line. The front of the reciver was realy high and so was the tang. I worked on it for a few hours this afternoon and it is much closer. Uncle Grinch thanks for the carbon paper/ mallet idea I'll give it a try.

 

File, then sand. You want some excess wood so that you can bring it down to the level of the metal.

 

What diameter is your barrel? It looks to me like the barrel channel is about the same diameter as your front receiver ring...

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