Brenden Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Gentlemen, I have been trying to ream this turkish 8mm to 8mm-06 for almost a week now. I ream a few turns, clean the reamer,chamber,and gauge, and every time it doesn't move a fraction of an inch. My reamer comes out without any chips on it, clean as when I placed it in there. What gives? This is a brand new reamer from PTG. The lugs have started to make contact, but just the lower edge of them. I just got back from trying to ream it some more and still, the lugs are just starting to make contact after about 70 turns or so of the reamer and my bolt is still in the air at the 2 o clock position. Any pointers or thoughts? Thanks, Brenden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Well, just maybe your barrel is hardened. I threw a Turk barrel on the lathe a few months ago to make a mandrel out of so I was trying to turn the barrel OD down to the same as a bolt. The further I got from the muzzle and closer to the chamber the harder it was to cut. My HSS cutters were just giving up trying to cut that barrel. I had to switch to carbide to get anywhere. Turk ammo is known to run 'hot' with repeated firing and carbon fouling there could have been the conditions to have created some case hardening. I was just trying to cut the outside, you are trying to cut the inside. You know the 'ways' on my lathe are 'flame hardened'. I have various '06' reamers that I got when Winchester folded. I would only suggest using a lathe to keep things on center, not for hand use. It sounds like you are starting to get close anyway. Is the reamer still sharp? Can you unscrew the barrel? I might suggest that you could screw the barrel on with the GO gauge in the chamber until you LIGHTLY make contact with the closed bolt ( no extractor ). Then you can measure how far apart the barrel shoulder is from the receiver shoulder. If you can wait until you come up this way, maybe between Rod and I we can come up with something. I'm out of ideas for now! Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiris Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Check the leade for fouling build up that may be impeding the reamer's pilot, or maybe it's just a tight pilot or barrel. I've not run into a hard chamber myself as I have not reamed that many chambers, but anything is possible. You just need to be careful when you are that close to fitting. Spiris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sommas Posted January 22, 2011 Report Share Posted January 22, 2011 Hello All, Ive been a long time lurker I thought I might be able to help sense Ive had this problem I think Siris is on the right track. Brendon have you tried the pilot in the muzzle end of the barrel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted January 22, 2011 Report Share Posted January 22, 2011 As the others have said, sounds like a pilot problem. Measure to the neck of the barrel, I but that's where the reamer is stopping. Do a chamber cast and measure the bore there as it might not be the same as the muzzle. But if the pilot won't fit in at the muzzle you know your problem already. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 I agree with the others. It's a tight pilot issue. I had one where the pilot fit in the muzzle but not the breech end. I sent the reamer back to the manufacturer and they coverted it to a changeable pilot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brenden Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Thanks everyone for their input. I had figured it was a pilot issue, I could tell by the feel of the reamer and as well as it not fitting into the muzzle end. Hate to send it back, only cost money though. Thanks for all your help guyes. Brenden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailormilan2 Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Is this a .318 barrel, or a .323 barrel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojelio Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Brenden, you could try polishing the pilot down a little. Maybe spin it in a drill against your polishing wheel. Just go slow and check often. The 8-06 reamer I used for my build had a tight pilot, also. Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brenden Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 I think I'm going to send it back to PTG and have them make a removable pilot for me. I shot them an e-mail about it, remember reading somewhere that they did not charge much for this procedure. I thought about running it against the polishing wheel though (or a bench grinder! lol). Thanks for the idea Roger. Sailor, It’s a .323 bore. Ah one of these days, I will get to shoot it. Brenden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 I think I'm going to send it back to PTG and have them make a removable pilot for me. I shot them an e-mail about it, remember reading somewhere that they did not charge much for this procedure. I thought about running it against the polishing wheel though (or a bench grinder! lol). Thanks for the idea Roger. Sailor, It’s a .323 bore. Ah one of these days, I will get to shoot it. Brenden Tool post grinder in the lathe is the best way to go outside of converting it to a removeable pilot. Sure someone by you has one maybe Rod. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riceone Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 The barrel is hardened and you cannot push by hand to make the reamer cut. Had a 6.5x50 sporter that someone had set the barrel back and gave up on deepening the chamber. I had to push the reamer with the tail stock aqnd turn the reamer by hand to make it cut. It did just what you said, reamer cam out without any chips. In the heat of combat rifles are shot beyond reasonable limits and they harden. riceone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 I had similar issues with both an 8mm-06 and 8mm-376 Steyr. I was using reamers I made from O1 tool steel. I had always thought that it was either a pilot problem as mentioned, or a sharpening problem or that I was using a weaky mini-lathe. I'd never considered the possibility that steel may had been hardened by shooting. I remember bearing down on the tailstock and using a load of lube. You will win eventually. Persistence always prevails. But you will also dull your reamer and need to resharpen, and you'll cut a less than perfect chamber. Commercial barrels do seem to be easier to ream - almost disturbingly so - careful, you can't put it back on! What does the pilot mic at? Do you have piece of a barrel that you can drill to close to shoulder size to test on another piece of steel? Can you cut stuff with the reamer you bought - like your finger when you pick it up from the wrong end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brenden Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Thanks Doble. As you say, I will win! I recieved my reamer back from PTG. I had them add a live pilot in .311 or .312 dia. I can't remember for sure, and I have no idea where my reamer is right now. I believe it was around .315-.316 before they ground it down. You can cut anything with that reamer, my fingers show it! I haven't had a chance yet to finish the chamber, too much going on right now. It's close to being finished, but again, I can't remember how much protrusion I still have. Need to find my notes; easier said then done though. Brenden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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